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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 12:58 AM
  #1  
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Dim Dash Lights

I have very dim dashlights. I have replaced the 194 bulbs with new 194 bulbs, I replaced those with LED's. At night, even with the LED's, you can barely see the guages. The headlight switch is about 5 years old.

If anybody has a voltage spec for the output of the headlight switch to the dash or at least the input voltage spec to the dash, I'd appreciate it. A schematic would be nice as well.

Any Ideas?

It is a 77 F150 4x4 with guages in the dash. The heater control light is as bright as expected like factory.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 04:37 AM
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i to would like to know if some one has an answer to this i have cleaned up ever thing i can think of in the wireing/grounds and there still dim on my bronco
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 05:02 AM
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Does the heater light dim when turning the dimmer **** counter clockwise? If it does then it is the bulb holders on the dash. Try cleaning the holders and board. If not it is probably the switch. Repair or replace.

Here is a link to how I have fixed mine but it is easy to bend the tang and permanently end the dimmer part of the switch.

That said you can also run a jumper between the "tang" post and the "center contacts" post and that bypasses the rheostat dimmer action and gives full power to the dash lights. Full bright only!

If jumping these doesn't make your dash lights brighter then might be the actual contacts where the bulb holder meets the dash circuit board or grounds.

Caution try at your own risk! Link below:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Turn signal/brake light problem

.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Riderman
If anybody has a voltage spec for the output of the headlight switch to the dash or at least the input voltage spec to the dash, I'd appreciate it. A schematic would be nice as well.
12 volts in, 12 volts out - or rather, whatever the battery voltage is. Nothing special. There will be a slight drop due to contact resistance and wiring IR drop, but it should not be enough to cause a significant drop in brightness.

I agree with OldStyle on looking at where the bulb carriages mount into the dash cluster; the contacts on the printed circuit can oxidize over time.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:49 AM
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If you have LED's jumping the dimmer will do nothing. You need to take the gauges apart and remove the blue filters. That is what is keeping them dim. Also you have to run green LED's for the turn signals, red for the reds, blue for the blues. LEDs are almost pure colors. Not like a light bulb that puts out almost full spectrum. If you run a white led and a red filter it will be very dim to non visible. If you run a red led it will be nice and bright.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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Trim the sheilds from the sides of the gauges, so more light strikes the face. I used these green leds from superbrightleds.com after doing that, and got this:


 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by pat67shorty
Trim the sheilds from the sides of the gauges, so more light strikes the face. I used these green leds from superbrightleds.com after doing that, and got this:
Holy crap! Bright as he//. So shields on the sides of the gauges. Ill have to try that.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by co425
If you have LED's jumping the dimmer will do nothing. You need to take the gauges apart and remove the blue filters. That is what is keeping them dim. Also you have to run green LED's for the turn signals, red for the reds, blue for the blues. LEDs are almost pure colors. Not like a light bulb that puts out almost full spectrum. If you run a white led and a red filter it will be very dim to non visible. If you run a red led it will be nice and bright.
Good catch, I completely skipped over the fact that he's running LEDs. And good info on the color filtering.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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I didn't pick up on the LED either. I don't know much about them but I have a question. If there was a problem with the dimmer and it was only putting out say 5v wouldn't bypassing the dimmer so there was a full 12v's be good? or Are they wired differently?

Anyway, co425, Thanks for looking out!

pat67shorty: Thanks for the link! Very cool.

.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 09:23 PM
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Guy's, thanks for the info! I do have the white LED's in the dash and the side markers. I'll purchase the corect color ones from superbrightleds.com. I already cleaned the light socket contacts. The heater control and dash lights do dim with the headlight switch, it's just the dash lights are very dim. I now know why.

pat67shorty: Thank you for the link. Do you have the P/N's you used? I assume you used blue, green, and a red LED's. I dont recall a blue filter, but I'll check after I purchase the LED's. I assume you remove these blue filters then install green LED's? I like the brightness of your dash lights!

Anyone use the tail/turn signal LED's from this site? Which one do you recommend? I'm a little confused with all the types available. Also, if you have used these bulbs, did you have to use their turn signal relay? They do not have a P/N of the relay for these trucks.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 10:06 PM
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My whole dash including the ashtray, glove box, dome and courtesy lights and outside marker lights and back up lights are from super bright LEDs. Good company.

Here's a small list I have
Cluster gauges are 194 bulbs

Washer/headlight,ashtray/glove box are BA9S bulbs

Courtesy lights 1156 base*

Just pick the number and color of LEDs you want. The 4x's fit nice in all of the dash bulb spots.

Here's some older crappy pics.


 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 12:09 AM
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I noticed for the X4 bulbs it says there is 32 degree beam and 90 degree beam.....which one is the best?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 79FordBlake
I noticed for the X4 bulbs it says there is 32 degree beam and 90 degree beam.....which one is the best?
I have questions such as this. Is it safe to assume the more LED's the better? On their website, (superbrightleds.com) it offers several options, all within a couple of dollars of each other. With no advice I'd go with the light with the most LED's, or the higher price. But, there is nothing like experience from someone that has purchased these items.

Can someone dumb it down for a dummy like me? For example, W4LED-XHP6-AC vs WLED-x6 vs WLED-xHP5 vs WLED-xHP, all of these models, among several others posted on their web site, are recomended for a 194 bulb replacement with the same color options. Jeesh, look at all of the LED 1187\1186 bulb options! I want a turn signal\hazard light relay that will work with these LED's as well. I'm confused. I want the brightest and "bestis" LED's for this truck, so to speak. Specific P/N's would be appreciated.

I'm hoping these answered questions will help somone else as well.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 06:48 AM
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Yes the more LEDs the brighter. But you are limited to what fits into the gauges. 4x fits 5x might but I don't know. The 32 degree are good for your gauges all of the light is aimed mostly straight ahead. The 90's are good for your glove box light courtesy, and dome. Also anything bigger then 4x wont fit in the housing for the wiper/washer, the radio or the heater.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:07 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Riderman
pat67shorty: Thank you for the link. Do you have the P/N's you used? I assume you used blue, green, and a red LED's. I dont recall a blue filter, but I'll check after I purchase the LED's. I assume you remove these blue filters then install green LED's? I like the brightness of your dash lights!
The pick I posted with the blue highlight is the part number. I removed the stock blue filters and just run two of the green LEDs. I haven't replaced the other bulbs in the cluster. the WLED x-HP6 are the brightest and widest throwing 194 replacements they have. If you get LED's with a narrow viewing angle, you'll get a bright spot with dark areas.
 
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