I too ask what grease is being used, they are getting way to hot FOR SURE! ... Not enough grease packed in bearing??? Non high temp grease used??? wheel bearing nut too tight?? These few things will cause failure

 

Is the person doing the replacement using a torque wrench? Are the new bearings being packed properly?

Here's the procedures for 1993:

Bronco and F-150 with Dana 44-IFS/HD Front Driving Axle with Manual Locking Hubs

Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
Remove the hub lock assembly. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
Using a torque wrench and Spanner Locknut Wrench T86T-1197-A, apply inward pressure to unlock the adjusting nut locking splines.
Turn the nut clockwise to tighten to 95 Nm (70 ft-lb) while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearing.
Apply inward pressure on the spanner locknut wrench to disengage the adjusting nut locking splines.
Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90 degrees.
Retighten the adjusting nut to 20-27 Nm (15-20 ft-lb). Remove the tool and torque wrench.
Check that the final end play of the hub and rotor on the spindle is 0.00 mm (0.00 inch).
Torque required to rotate the hub and rotor assembly is not to exceed 2.3 Nm (20 in-lb).
Install the hub lock assembly. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
Remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle.



Bronco and F-150 with Dana 44-IFS with Automatic Locking Hubs, F-250 with Dana 50-IFS and F-350 with Dana 60 Monobeam with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
Remove the hub lock assembly. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
Remove the outer locknut with Spanner Locknut Wrench D85T-1197-A or equivalent. Remove the lockwasher.
Using spanner locknut wrench while rotating the hub back and forth, tighten the inner locknut to 68 Nm (50 ft-lb) to seat the bearing.
Back off the inner locknut and retighten to 41-54 Nm (30-40 ft-lb) while rotating the hub back and forth.
Back off the locknut 90 degrees.
Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the spindle groove. Tighten the inner locknut, aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole.
Install the outer locknut and tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 ft-lb) using spanner locknut wrench.
Check the final end play ofthe spindle. It should be 0.00-0.11mm (0.000-0.004 inch).
Torque required to rotate the hub and rotor assembly is not to exceed 2.3 Nm (20 in-lb).
Install the hub locks. See: Wheel Hub (Locking)\Service and Repair
Remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle.

 

im deffinately thinking its either greese or tourque. i cant really see it being much else at this point provided the wheel offsett isnt crazy wich im assuming they are stock or close

 

31/10.5 tires on the stock rims and as I mentioned ive had different mechanic shops change them aswell as myself I use ford lincoln mercury greese napa told me to use?

 

kendall super blue, is what ive always used on wheel bearings and have yet to have a problem. ive been working in the dealerships for the past few years.

 

Ok ill try getting that but id think they would last longer then a few months no matter what greese u use

 

if the bearings are being packed and the races lubed with grease and the preload and touque properly set i cant see what else ca n reeally affect ure set up.

 

I just tighten it snug then back it off 1/4 turn til it spins freely I dont know how the shops do them either way ive never gotten over 1,500 miles out of a set. I tried timkin and the cheap ones

 

Maybe the bearings aren't getting seated all the way or something. Next time you change the bearings, do it yourself and do it by the book word for word. Use a torque wrench and make sure your doing everything exactly how it should be

 

So I'm thinking about a repack due to I'm sure it hasn't been done in 156,000 miles how close would I be to pivot bushings and u joints I have one with a tad of play

 

How are the bearings being greased, should be water proof EP wheel bearing grease who makes it isn't all that important.

If the job is done correctly each time, bearings are properly packed with proper grease and bearing preload is correctly set then there is something else as a constant causing the problem, something is being overlooked.

How about the brakes? Condition and are the same calipers used each time or have they been replaced at some point and where they new or used? Do the calipers fully relax as they should? What do the rotors look like, any signs of overheating on them?

Questions have been ignored and or simply responded to with short basic single sentence reply's and that ain't gonna get it, be exact when responding posting pictures might/would help too. Pictures of over view truck and over view of front end and then pictures close up of everything including some of the damaged parts.

Otherwise its just gonna keep coming back around to the same replies, grease and bearing preload or both as suspect.