Exhaust question
Exhaust question
Hopefully some day I will be able to answer instead of keep asking info. Has anyone done a dual exhaust with an H pipe? I want to use stock manifolds no headers. Looking for an H pipe setup not the straight dual pipes I see on some of the vendor sites. I just can't seem to find the H pipe system I want, which I think will perform the best.
gfpilot,
I'd suggest you call around to a few of your local muffler shops and ask if they are capable & willing to build you an H-pipe from scratch. Many muffler shops have sections of various diameter straight muffler pipe and a tubing cutter and bender. You'd probably be surprised as to how many can help you out. I doubt the final cost would be much different from a pre-bent, pre-welded, non-local-supplied H pipe. The shop can flare the ends for attachment to the manifold, and once fitted up under your truck, then cut and weld in a cross-over ('H') pipe. You wouldn't need to mess around with oversize delivery issues & freight charges and you know it'll fit. A pickup will be less costly than a car because there is more room to work with.
Once you have your H pipe in place, are you planning to:
-- run dual mufflers or run both exhaust pipes into a single muffler?
-- run the tailpipes to dump in front of the rear axle or over to each side and dump in front of the rear tires?
-- run it up and over the rear axle then end the tailpipe at either side of the rear hitch location angled to each side & located beneath the taillights or between the rear tire and taillight corner?
Lastly, I'd also recommend you use a quality exhaust gasket. If your exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head flange area is pitted (not smooth) I'd also go with some Hi-Temp RTV smeared on both sides of the gasket. Use new manifold to head bolts and new studs in the manifolds to attach the exhaust pipes.
Good Luck and keep us posted with your progress!
BarnieTrk
I'd suggest you call around to a few of your local muffler shops and ask if they are capable & willing to build you an H-pipe from scratch. Many muffler shops have sections of various diameter straight muffler pipe and a tubing cutter and bender. You'd probably be surprised as to how many can help you out. I doubt the final cost would be much different from a pre-bent, pre-welded, non-local-supplied H pipe. The shop can flare the ends for attachment to the manifold, and once fitted up under your truck, then cut and weld in a cross-over ('H') pipe. You wouldn't need to mess around with oversize delivery issues & freight charges and you know it'll fit. A pickup will be less costly than a car because there is more room to work with.
Once you have your H pipe in place, are you planning to:
-- run dual mufflers or run both exhaust pipes into a single muffler?
-- run the tailpipes to dump in front of the rear axle or over to each side and dump in front of the rear tires?
-- run it up and over the rear axle then end the tailpipe at either side of the rear hitch location angled to each side & located beneath the taillights or between the rear tire and taillight corner?
Lastly, I'd also recommend you use a quality exhaust gasket. If your exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head flange area is pitted (not smooth) I'd also go with some Hi-Temp RTV smeared on both sides of the gasket. Use new manifold to head bolts and new studs in the manifolds to attach the exhaust pipes.
Good Luck and keep us posted with your progress!

BarnieTrk
Thanks BarnieTrk I may have to go that route I just like doing my own work but making my own pipes is out of my capabilities. Appreciate the input. As far as a plan I want dual turbo mufflers nice sound but no too much and either turn outs in fron or behind rear wheels not quite sure yet. What do you think about two muffs and where they should turn out?
gfpilot
gfpilot
Thanks BarnieTrk I may have to go that route I just like doing my own work but making my own pipes is out of my capabilities. Appreciate the input. As far as a plan I want dual turbo mufflers nice sound but no too much and either turn outs in fron or behind rear wheels not quite sure yet. What do you think about two muffs and where they should turn out? gfpilot
I prefer two mufflers. I'd run it out the back.
I didn't run a H-pipe on my '65 F100, 390 T-18 - because I wanted to keep the pipes tucked up the best I could. Thus, I simply ran two separate systems; two mufflers and then up and over the rear and straight back. I think it's quieter in the cab to run the pipes up and over the rear end rather than exit under the cab or out in front of the rear tire. I ran mine to exit beneath the rear of the box, ~1ft in front of the back bumper with 45 degree turn-downs. I think it gives the side view a cleaner look and the tail pipes seem to last longer run out the back. When the tail pipes exit behind the rear tires, they don't tend to last as long - I suspect from the flying road debris and rain splash on hot pipes. I think I used 2" components throughout.
BarnieTrk
I have duel muffers on my 66 F1004x4 with headers, no H pipe, that turn out in front of the rear wheels. Muffers are strait though long glass packs. And I have 76 F250 with duel turbo muffers turning out behind the rear wheels. I like the sound of the 76 much more. I built the 66 when I was younger and like the pipe loud, I guess I have mellowed with age, but just a bit.
Yep, my "ear" has also mellowed with age, as well as my desire to attract attention with my exhaust sound. The glasspacks will likely get louder as the glass burns out of them. I also installed turbo-style mufflers. I think they were DynoMax brand.
BarnieTrk
BarnieTrk
Good stuff guys this is helping me. Another question for Barnie: I did not consider the road rash coming up on the pipes thanks for pointing that out. I am mounting a spare underneath the bed I have the LB and my concern on straight pipes is clearance? Do you have a spare mounted under the bed? I like your idea about keeping 1 foot inside the rear bumper another thing I did not consider as I felt I would have to go flush with the bumper exposing the tailpipes if I did something stupid like back into something.
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Good stuff guys this is helping me. Another question for Barnie: I did not consider the road rash coming up on the pipes thanks for pointing that out. I am mounting a spare underneath the bed I have the LB and my concern on straight pipes is clearance? Do you have a spare mounted under the bed?
I understand your concerns - and I don't have a spare mounted underneath the box bed. I would think if I did, I'd put a slight bend in the tail pipes to cause them to run to either side of the spare - so the pipes don't travel under the spare tire - otherwise the heat may damage the spare AND they would likely cause issues when you wanted to remove the spare tire.
I like your idea about keeping 1 foot inside the rear bumper another thing I did not consider as I felt I would have to go flush with the bumper exposing the tailpipes if I did something stupid like back into something.
I understand your concerns - and I don't have a spare mounted underneath the box bed. I would think if I did, I'd put a slight bend in the tail pipes to cause them to run to either side of the spare - so the pipes don't travel under the spare tire - otherwise the heat may damage the spare AND they would likely cause issues when you wanted to remove the spare tire.
I like your idea about keeping 1 foot inside the rear bumper another thing I did not consider as I felt I would have to go flush with the bumper exposing the tailpipes if I did something stupid like back into something.
Rather than be worried about backing into something and "kissing" the tailpipes, I was more concerned with not wanting the exhaust to be too close to burn or gas me if I was standing behind the truck, with the tailgate up, and the truck running or the pipes still hot. I have never noticed the exhaust or been concerned with the hot pipes with it tucked back a foot as it is now.....
BarnieTrk
Personally, I think you're throwing your money away. Exhaust systems are an area where it seems so many people are wanting to cut
corners, and as it's an area which can add a lot to the vehicle's performance....why do it??
Why not do it right?...get yourself a set of propper headers (I got a great set on CList) for $125....then do the exhaust right....in the
end doing a half a__ed job is only going to be a disappointment.
I experienced dramatic gains from the headers and a good exhaust system...not one regret spending a bit extra.
My opinion...for what it's worth.
corners, and as it's an area which can add a lot to the vehicle's performance....why do it??
Why not do it right?...get yourself a set of propper headers (I got a great set on CList) for $125....then do the exhaust right....in the
end doing a half a__ed job is only going to be a disappointment.
I experienced dramatic gains from the headers and a good exhaust system...not one regret spending a bit extra.
My opinion...for what it's worth.
Agreed Cropdusterman! putting an H-pipe on a manifold system? The flow is so restricted at the manifolds..what do you expect to gain from the H-pipe? It is like Putting Mercedes Benz Hub caps on a Yugo! Do it right the first time rather than shooting yourself in the foot and Pi$$ing away your hard earned money.
I did custom made ceramic coated aluminized Sanderson headers, into a 2 1/2" DUAL Stainless exhaust,, 40" glass packs, with turnouts in front of the rear tires.. I had it professionally done complete for less than $700.. Nice power improvement,and a deep mellow tone! you can add an H-pipe, and you might gain 0.4 sec on a quarter mile.. but for how much money is it really worth all of the extra cash? This is a truck not a dragster or stock car! Put that money into the headers and pipes instead!
Good luck with it!
I did custom made ceramic coated aluminized Sanderson headers, into a 2 1/2" DUAL Stainless exhaust,, 40" glass packs, with turnouts in front of the rear tires.. I had it professionally done complete for less than $700.. Nice power improvement,and a deep mellow tone! you can add an H-pipe, and you might gain 0.4 sec on a quarter mile.. but for how much money is it really worth all of the extra cash? This is a truck not a dragster or stock car! Put that money into the headers and pipes instead!
Good luck with it!
Personally, I think you're throwing your money away. Exhaust systems are an area where it seems so many people are wanting to cut
corners, and as it's an area which can add a lot to the vehicle's performance....why do it??
Why not do it right?...get yourself a set of propper headers (I got a great set on CList) for $125....then do the exhaust right....in the
end doing a half a__ed job is only going to be a disappointment.
I experienced dramatic gains from the headers and a good exhaust system...not one regret spending a bit extra.
My opinion...for what it's worth.
corners, and as it's an area which can add a lot to the vehicle's performance....why do it??
Why not do it right?...get yourself a set of propper headers (I got a great set on CList) for $125....then do the exhaust right....in the
end doing a half a__ed job is only going to be a disappointment.
I experienced dramatic gains from the headers and a good exhaust system...not one regret spending a bit extra.
My opinion...for what it's worth.
If you use ceramic coated headers you actually eliminate heat issues, not add heat issues! The ceramic coating contains the heat in the pipes, I actually noticed a drop in temps after adding the headers. I have a moderately built 352.. bored, stroked, cammed..w/ ported and polished heads.. Basic thin wall large diameter headers will cause heat issues, but a properly sized ceramic coated header makes vast improvements in performance and heat issues!
i picked up a brand new set of headman headers off of C.L. for $75. The P.O. got them for a f100 he had and never installed them so they sat in his parents garage for years. now there with me and will be on my truck next summer 



you can find great deals there.




you can find great deals there.
My first set of headers were headman.. I sold them on CL at a loss as they didn't fit quite right... it was not a quality issue it was the engine swap motor mounts that didn't fit well with the Headers.. causing a rubbing.. After a few weeks I pulled them and swapped in the Sandersons. which were an easy fit.. I sold the $200 Headmans on CL for $100 after onlt a few hours of use... I had also High temp coated them, so someone got a sweet deal!
these where new and never installed with all the stickers and extra parts bag that they send with it (gaskets, bolts ect...) i am planning on getting them coated or just buying the coating myself and doing it but first i have to sand of all there travel black pant thats on it because it all burns off after installed anyways. my plans are straight pipe them back and out before the rear tires or with glass packs but not sure what would sound best lol. i like loud!!!!!







