Part ID help needed
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 983
Likes: 49
From: Northern Kentucky
Wish I had been brave enough to just cut all the wires, but i wasn't. I could just imagine one of those wires being needed for something important but unrelated to the computer. If I might add another question, how did you deal with the Thermactor system removal. I know that the pipes tie into the back of the heads but I don't think I can reach back there to get them loose. Can the pipes just be plugged in some way? If i pull the engine later on I would do a proper job of plugging the heads, but for now I'm just trying to get the truck running good before the snow flies here. With my driveway I need the 4 wheel drive if it snows.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Marysville, WA
Pull the two small bolts holding the crossover to the back of the heads, and then find two short 5/8-11 bolts and thread them into the thermactor holes in the back of the heads. The holes are tapped.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Actually, the Thermactor bit isn't too hard. I was able to pull the one bolt each side that holds that manifold (pipe) on. Then I plugged the holes with 5/8-11 bolts.
But, the bolt can't be very long, for two reasons: First, you can't get a long one in because of the firewall. Second, the threads don't go in too far. So buy a couple of short ones so they'll have threads all the way to the head. Put them in the vise and cut them so they are about .400" long, and then use a file to clean up the end thread.
Before you try to thread them in you may need to clean the threads in the head a bit - especially if the engine's been burning a lot of oil. But, you probably can't get a tap in the to clean them, so use whatever you can. And try the bolt. Clean. Try. Yippee! Then coat the threads and the underside of the heads with a high-temp sealer and run it in and tighten it down pretty tight.
I've run them that way for several thousand miles and they were still in fine shape when I pulled them as I rebuilt the engine.
But, the bolt can't be very long, for two reasons: First, you can't get a long one in because of the firewall. Second, the threads don't go in too far. So buy a couple of short ones so they'll have threads all the way to the head. Put them in the vise and cut them so they are about .400" long, and then use a file to clean up the end thread.
Before you try to thread them in you may need to clean the threads in the head a bit - especially if the engine's been burning a lot of oil. But, you probably can't get a tap in the to clean them, so use whatever you can. And try the bolt. Clean. Try. Yippee! Then coat the threads and the underside of the heads with a high-temp sealer and run it in and tighten it down pretty tight.
I've run them that way for several thousand miles and they were still in fine shape when I pulled them as I rebuilt the engine.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,362
Likes: 22
From: Florence, SC
When I first got my truck, I found that the previous owner simply cut off the pipes at the back of the heads and crimped the ends closed. When I took the motor out, I wasn't satisfied with this sort of engineering so I tried to find bolts to seal the holes in the back of the heads properly. I couldn't find any locally, so I ordered these thermactor plugs:
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400265 - Trick Flow® Small Block Ford Thermactor Plugs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400265 - Trick Flow® Small Block Ford Thermactor Plugs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
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