December Chat, BS, and general nonsense thread...all are welcome.
#106
good morning missouri... well took me all day to pull the 24valves out of the head..do a little cleaning, drain all 6 gal. of oil from the oilpan (no water in the oil.. now i can pull it off..i think i will go ahead and pull the pistons since i have a set of new rings already might as well use them..would like to check the cylinders. just in case i cracked a sleeve or something weird like that... and yes there are 24 rod bolts in my 6 cyl...now i remember why i quit working on these engines...everything is so dang heavy
#107
Well I think I have a starter relay issue. Turn key lights on dummy dash lights light up then turn key and it all dies. I think I can hear the relay click before all goes dead. I have to disconnect battery then reconnect to get lights to come back on in truck...then same thing happens. I think this was happening right before I switched motors. Sounds like the relay? Thanks for your thoughts.
I think its called the starter solenoid not relay, sorry.
I think its called the starter solenoid not relay, sorry.
#109
#110
Yes it sounds like a "starter solenoid" or in my diagram its called a "starter relay" issue? The little round thing on the passenger side inner fenderwell. Has your positive batt cable hooked to fwd post, and the starter cable to the rear post.
And 2 small slip on 90 degree connectors One is "S" and one is "I" in the front/outside.
My diagram shows red/blue on the front terminal and brown on the rear one.
If you are going to the parts store to get one take your starter with you and get it tested, I watch them hook it up and test it.
The small square box behind it is the voltage regulator, is controls the charging of the batt system. So start with a new starter solenoid.
Double ck all you wiring connections and your battery cables for good connections and condition and the eng block ground connection.
And 2 small slip on 90 degree connectors One is "S" and one is "I" in the front/outside.
My diagram shows red/blue on the front terminal and brown on the rear one.
If you are going to the parts store to get one take your starter with you and get it tested, I watch them hook it up and test it.
The small square box behind it is the voltage regulator, is controls the charging of the batt system. So start with a new starter solenoid.
Double ck all you wiring connections and your battery cables for good connections and condition and the eng block ground connection.
#111
#112
Whazzup Y'all!
Nodda here, looks/feels like a good day to hang out inside the house. Tim and I added a few more lights outside yesterday. Think I'm gonna keep indoors today, get a fire going and just lay around. Temp is only 36, nope not warm enough to play outside. Need to check with a buddy about a 9mm that I'm thinking about selling/trading him. I really want another 357, or even another 44 mag. I like pistols that go BOOM,
Hope everybody's doing well.
Unk Bob
Nodda here, looks/feels like a good day to hang out inside the house. Tim and I added a few more lights outside yesterday. Think I'm gonna keep indoors today, get a fire going and just lay around. Temp is only 36, nope not warm enough to play outside. Need to check with a buddy about a 9mm that I'm thinking about selling/trading him. I really want another 357, or even another 44 mag. I like pistols that go BOOM,
Hope everybody's doing well.
Unk Bob
#113
#114
Hey border. You have a bad connection. That's all. Take the battery cables off and clean the terminals and cable ends with a wire brush. Then CLAMP THE CABLES ON TIGHTLY. Clean the connections at the starter and the solenoid. I GUARANTEE it'll crank after that. You don't need to buy any parts.
#115
#116
yea some good suggestions...i would test a few things before i went out and started buying parts.. do like alan said and clean your battery posts and the connections on the starter relay.. if it still dont start turn the key on,take a old screwdriver and jump from the post from the battery to the small post next to it on the relay..should be a red and blue wire i think.. then if it starts you can look towards the ignition switch,or if it dont check the battery or starter...
#117
#119
#120
I got bored in the afternoon and went out to tinker with the Nova. For YEARS, it would run on when you shut the car off. (It wouldn't diesel, it would stay running normally for ten seconds after you turned the key off.) It finally aggravated me enough to fix it.
It turns out that the ignition was back feeding through my electric cooling fan. As long as the fan was spinning, the engine would stay running. As soon as the fan stopped turning, the engine would shut off. It was my own fault. I used high amperage wire and a switch, so I never wired it with a relay. Now it has a relay and it shuts off like it's supposed to.
It turns out that the ignition was back feeding through my electric cooling fan. As long as the fan was spinning, the engine would stay running. As soon as the fan stopped turning, the engine would shut off. It was my own fault. I used high amperage wire and a switch, so I never wired it with a relay. Now it has a relay and it shuts off like it's supposed to.