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Gentlemen, I have a 96 7.3 that is starting to need some repairs and unfortunately I'm not mechanical. I have a small leak in my oil pan and I have been quoted $2300 to change it. That seems ridiculous, but they say the entire engine has to come out in order to change the pan. I just put a new oil cooler in it to the tune of $1700, so if what they say is true, I will be looking for a buyer for my 96 with only 167k on it, because I can't afford to keep up with the repair costs.
Now you guys know why I am coming here to ask the questions...I don't have anyone around me to work on my truck except for the dealership and because I can't say anything good about dealerships, I won't say anything at all!
So, how often do guys just cut the crossbar and reweld it to get the oil pan fixed? And, do you actually have to pull the engine if you don't cut the cross bar?
If you find a GOOD welder and I mean GOOD. API certified welder then have the cross member cut and rewelded for the oil pan replacement.
Then if your looking to sell it before that let me know.
I have several VERY good welders that I know personally, so I may check that out. As for selling it, I have it marked with the for sale sign as I type. If you want more info, let me know.
Yeah the motor has to come out. Just did my father's '97 this summer. Thanks to NY salt we also put another frame in it, one that wasn't full of rust. I know your pain. Good luck.
shoot, for that kind of coin that small leak would just be leaving its mark wherever you park
seriously though, if you truly mean small leak just leave it for now. i have also heard of some people using an oil proof RTV to seal any leaks temporarily.
also, how sure are you that its oil pan? there are a lot of other places it could be that make it look like an oil pan. could be oil cooler, dip stick, turbo pedastal, hell it could be as far away as the HPOP.
you make it down to GA and we will get that puppy fixed up
You dont have to pull the motor ,someone on here has a shop and cuts the cross member all the time,i cant think of who it was but i bet someone will jump in here and know who it is.i think he is up in your part of the woods,
shoot, for that kind of coin that small leak would just be leaving its mark wherever you park
seriously though, if you truly mean small leak just leave it for now. i have also heard of some people using an oil proof RTV to seal any leaks temporarily.
also, how sure are you that its oil pan? there are a lot of other places it could be that make it look like an oil pan. could be oil cooler, dip stick, turbo pedastal, hell it could be as far away as the HPOP.
you make it down to GA and we will get that puppy fixed up
-cutts-
x2^^^^Dont sell the ol girl just because shes got a small leak! Get some cardboard and put it in your drive way and go to the store and buy a gallon of oil to keep behind the seat Save a penny here and there orrrrr join the FTE Ohio chapter and find a weekend and some buddies and get er done.
I have several VERY good welders that I know personally, so I may check that out. As for selling it, I have it marked with the for sale sign as I type. If you want more info, let me know.
If you truely know good craftsmen then allow them to cut and reweld the cross member. Good welds are stronger than the existing metal. API cert welders is my CWI credentials speaking, so not just the guy that is a good welder its the guy that has passed API certifications and knows what it takes to pass a WPQR.
Or if its in known leak and in a accessable area and its not a weaping crack but a pin hole. Then drain the oil clean the surface. Use a scotch pad to roughen the area around the hole. Point tap the center.
Install a SS or monel sheet metal screw (partially) then use some brake clean to clean around it. Then dope the area with Marine JB weld (around the screw end at the junction of the screw and the pan) then tighten the screw just enough that the head is almost plum, but not. The epoxy will mushroom around it.
Then dope over the screw head and allow it to dry. If its cold allow longer drying time. Reference the epoxy instructions. That will hold any pan pin hole leak for yrs to come.
First think first like already mentioned, make sure the pan is leaking. Clean it REAL GOOD, then if you know a welder that is good like you say, unless that pan is real bad I'd come up with a way to patch it. Something like Rock mentioned, or I'd try about anything, jb weld a patch on, ford gray silicone around it, etc.
About two years ago, I did put a JB Weld patch on the oil pan. It is now starting to slowly leak again. At this point unless you can JB Weld a JB Weld, then I am looking at a new pan....the salt in this area of the country has it's way with things....