Hello! 1981 F100
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 48
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From: Greater Seattle Area
1: Exterior Reduced Sound package is indeed sound proofing for inside the cab. There is a sound proofing blanket on the inside firewall, and sound proofing under the carpet or rubber mat.
2: The AM radio was optional in 1981. So it cost them extra even for that.
3: Does this truck get the 20MPG that the EPA has rated for this on the sticker above?
2: The AM radio was optional in 1981. So it cost them extra even for that.
3: Does this truck get the 20MPG that the EPA has rated for this on the sticker above?
One of the first things my FIL did when he got the truck was put in the Realistic AM/FM Cassette desk pictured in mt first post. The original AM radio came with the truck packed in the Realistic box.
My FIL said that indeed on a straight hiway run, he never had a problem getting the EPA estimated 20 mpg. That said, he always drives exactly the speed limit-- even during the double nickel days, so I'm sure yes, at 55 mph, she'll get 20 mpg -- I'm sure my mileage will vary
Some of the other nifty things my FIL did to the truck when he first got to make it, "more civilized" as he put it, is an aftermarket wiper delay module, and an aftermarket cruise control. Neither currently work, but I'm pretty sure I can get the cruise working -- I have the complete schematics that came with kit.
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 756
Likes: 1
From: central illinois
Nice looking truck. Good luck with it and enjoy it. It should last you well over 5 years. Mine did and she was in worse shape with only 55k miles. It was an old farm truck. It too was an 81 300ci and a C6 with the same axle gears. What a dog but never gave up.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
That's what mine looked like too when I drained my T-19 out my F350 CC. yuck. I was also reading some of the other threads and I have (as already mentioned) the Borg Warner T-19 transmission which has reverse to the right and up. Threw me for a loop. Used to down in most cars, even in 4 speeds. I have a bugger of a time finding a shift **** that has the correct shift pattern. New one's are almost $70. I have an '85 F350 460.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
$450 for parts and labor to R&R it and rebuild with all new internals, including convertor, backed for 5yr/75K miles. I can't touch that price today for even a carryout unit......
Truck only had 230K on it when I bought it, now has well over 300K. It does have a ways to go before it catches up to the 74 dad bought new, now sitting in my driveway.......
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 48
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From: Greater Seattle Area
Aw JEEZ!
I lost one of my Dog Dishes on the way to work yesterday morning. 30 damn years they're on the truck, give me one day with it and I loose one.
I scanned the roadside on my way in the morning, but didn't find anything (nor did I expect to).
Other than that, I've taken her work two days in a row now (100 miles round trip) and she hasn't skipped a beat. So far, so good!
I lost one of my Dog Dishes on the way to work yesterday morning. 30 damn years they're on the truck, give me one day with it and I loose one.
I scanned the roadside on my way in the morning, but didn't find anything (nor did I expect to).
Other than that, I've taken her work two days in a row now (100 miles round trip) and she hasn't skipped a beat. So far, so good!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
At the rate of putting miles on I understand your reluctance to run ATF. But, when are you going to drain the tranny again? Please post a pic of that as well. In fact, how about a before & after shot, meaning include the previous one again.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Greater Seattle Area
Probably this weekend. We have family coming in from out of town for my Kid's 1st birthday, so time might be tight, though I expect my FIL will be more than willing to get his hands dirty with his old truck. I really don't want to go more than 500 miles before changing it again. I'll definitely do another pic. Honestly, 500 miles is more than I'd like anyway, but my wife's car is down with a bad clutch and my Jeep just blew an axle seal. So she's driving the 3rd car, and I'm driving the project this week. It's fun when the new low-mileage cars break and the most dependable ones are the 22 yr old BMW and the 30 yr old Ford.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Problems do seem to come in droves. I overheated the engine in my '82, so it was out of service for a rebuild. Then the wife's 10 year old Subie blew a head gasket, which turns out to be common for that series of engine. Jumped in my 12 year old ML320 and found the noise under the hood, which I'd been ignoring since it wasn't really being driven, was both an alternator and power steering pump. Replaced the alternator and discovered the check engine light was on and probably had been for some time but I couldn't see it due to having the steering wheel up high. That was a long-term fuel trim issue, so probably a vacuum leak somewhere.
Traded the ML in on a new Murano and at 325 miles it decided that at night the world was too dark of a place and turned the lights on. Needless to say, the battery was dead the next morn and we were 200 miles from home. Dealer replaced the Body Control Module which actually controls the headlights and it hasn't happened again in the 2 weeks we've had it back.
So, things seem to happen in clumps. Perhaps yours are in the rear view mirror?
Traded the ML in on a new Murano and at 325 miles it decided that at night the world was too dark of a place and turned the lights on. Needless to say, the battery was dead the next morn and we were 200 miles from home. Dealer replaced the Body Control Module which actually controls the headlights and it hasn't happened again in the 2 weeks we've had it back.
So, things seem to happen in clumps. Perhaps yours are in the rear view mirror?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
Whatever you do, for the love of God, don't take off the PTO cover. I had a heckuva time finding a replacement gasket and when I put it back on I over-torqued it and bent it. Took even longer finding a replacement PTO cover. If you do need a new gasket for whatever reason I would get the cork gasket and not the paper. I think the paper gasket was meant for a different model/year of that transmission. No leaks now though.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Whatever you do, for the love of God, don't take off the PTO cover. I had a heckuva time finding a replacement gasket and when I put it back on I over-torqued it and bent it. Took even longer finding a replacement PTO cover. If you do need a new gasket for whatever reason I would get the cork gasket and not the paper. I think the paper gasket was meant for a different model/year of that transmission. No leaks now though.
Yeah, those gaskets seem to be hard to come by, never tried to find the cover.
This was before I had the parts catalog and NumberDummy had taught me how to look things up.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Greater Seattle Area
Well, with the rain comes a new issue. I've never seen so much water come into the interior of a vehicle.
The seal along the top of the windshield must be bad as it drips from the upper windshield trim onto the steering column, floor, you legs, etc. This only happen at a stop, when you're moving it's dry. The rear window seal is bad, as it's dripping from the bottom there. Something else is leaking badly, as I'm getting a drip from both rear corners of the cab, from behind where the seat belt mounts are, I think I understand why the rear cab corners are rotten now
The interior is pretty damn -- I've been dryer myself
The seal along the top of the windshield must be bad as it drips from the upper windshield trim onto the steering column, floor, you legs, etc. This only happen at a stop, when you're moving it's dry. The rear window seal is bad, as it's dripping from the bottom there. Something else is leaking badly, as I'm getting a drip from both rear corners of the cab, from behind where the seat belt mounts are, I think I understand why the rear cab corners are rotten now
The interior is pretty damn -- I've been dryer myself
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Well, with the rain comes a new issue. I've never seen so much water come into the interior of a vehicle.
The seal along the top of the windshield must be bad as it drips from the upper windshield trim onto the steering column, floor, you legs, etc. This only happen at a stop, when you're moving it's dry. The rear window seal is bad, as it's dripping from the bottom there. Something else is leaking badly, as I'm getting a drip from both rear corners of the cab, from behind where the seat belt mounts are, I think I understand why the rear cab corners are rotten now
The interior is pretty damn -- I've been dryer myself
The seal along the top of the windshield must be bad as it drips from the upper windshield trim onto the steering column, floor, you legs, etc. This only happen at a stop, when you're moving it's dry. The rear window seal is bad, as it's dripping from the bottom there. Something else is leaking badly, as I'm getting a drip from both rear corners of the cab, from behind where the seat belt mounts are, I think I understand why the rear cab corners are rotten now
The interior is pretty damn -- I've been dryer myself
As for the "something else" leak, do you have a bed/cargo light? Most of the ones I've seen have the gasket totally gone at the top. I caulked mine with a silicone-based caulk and it is holding nicely. And, since my truck is white and the caulk is white, it doesn't show.
You are on your own on the rear window. Haven't done that yet.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
A buddy of mine showed me how to install a rear window seal. You put the seal in place on the truck. There is a channel on the inside of the seal for the glass. You take like some poly rope or telephone wire and stick it in the channel all the way around. Then seat your glass in the bottom of the track the best you can. While holding the glass in with one hand pull the rope with the other from in between the seal and the glass while pressing the glass firmly against the seal. The lip should come up and over the glass installing it as you go. You can see what its doing and help it along . Just dont use anything sharp as a tool to manuvere it with b/c it will cut the seal ruining your rubber seal and your labor.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
Here is alittle video that does it somewhat different , but , the same method. It is pretty easy. I think the seal for mine was like $50.00.
1967 Chevy Pickup Back Window install - YouTube
Sorry , I know its for a chewy, but , it was all I could find.
1967 Chevy Pickup Back Window install - YouTube
Sorry , I know its for a chewy, but , it was all I could find.