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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 12:37 PM
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Cold start problem

Hi Folks. I've spent a lot of time reading on here, but this is my first post. My truck has trouble starting when the temp gets down to 20ish or so. At that temp, when it does start, it runs rough for a bit till it warms up. The batteries are new, the GPR is new last year and tests 11.65 volts coming out of it and seems to stay on for a good amount of time. All the glow plugs ohm out at .7. The wiring and connectors going into the valve covers look good and show no signs of being hot or burnt. If I cycle the glow plugs on a few times before attempting to start, it seems to make no difference. Plugging the truck in helps.
It has 230K on it, but runs great other than the cold start issue. Seems to run smooth with good power when warm. What else should I be looking at? Fuel injectors possibly? If so are there any tests I can perform on them ? All input and ideas appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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Check voltage drop across the GPR.
Put the red lead of you volt meter on the hot post and the black lead on the other large post going out to your glow plugs. With the key off you should see battery voltage. Have a helper turn the key on but do not start to cycle the glow plugs. Your volt meter should drop to less than 2 volts. If it is greater than 2 volts the GPR is bad.

If this test checks out and your glow plugs look like they have all checked good then I would suspect worn injectors. Does it start better if it has been plugged in for a couple hours?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 04:04 PM
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Thanks for the help. I'm pretty sure it's not the GPR. It was starting to get hard to start last winter, which is why I changed the GPR and it didn't make any difference at all. The GPR does have close to 12 volts coming out of it when activated too. I will check for the voltage drop though, as soon as I have a helper to turn the key on. It does start easier after being plugged in. Not sure if a couple hours is enough or not because I just left it plugged in overnight last winter to be sure it would start. Can't remember ever trying to start it after being plugged in for just a couple of hours, but I suspect it would have to make some difference.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 06:09 PM
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Low compression or poor atomization from the injectors will also cause hard cold starts. If you suspect ethier one I would check compression first as it is free to do. Just be sure to use a diesel compression tester and pull the IDM fuse/relay to keep it from firing. The compression gauge for a gasser will not read nearly high enough and if it fires during the test it will blow any gauge. If compression is good, you know it's likely the injectors. That would be a good excuse to upgrade.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 01:41 AM
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Scott, what oil are you running? Maybe go to a 5-40syn like T6 Rotella. Flows better and will run smooth when fired up.
Chet
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 10:17 AM
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I was thinking the same thing about the lower weight synthetic oil. As a matter of fact, I bought some the other day to try out. I guess an injector and compression test might be in order after that. If the injectors need rebuilt, do you guys have a place you recommend for the work?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 10:53 AM
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 01:41 PM
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Thanks for the link. Know anything about Rosewood diesel shop? I've been reading some threads where they were recommended and they look to have a much better price.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 02:51 PM
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Jim, Rosewood Diesel, has a good reputation as well. Pricing should be close honestly, at least the last time I checked anyway. Another reputable builder would be Swamps.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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Your right, maybe the price will be about the same. Rosewood diesel has a budget build that seems cheaper, but I really don't even know if that's an option.
Can you guys tell me a little about injector testing? I've seen a buzz test, but from what I understand that is really more or less listening to the buzz they make to identify weak injectors. Is that enough? Is there some kind of other testing that is done in the truck to tell me exactly what kind of condition my injectors are in and what needs to be done with them?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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The buzz test is actually a test of the electrical communication between the IDM and injectors. It does however offer an audible buzz that if you have weak injectors can be heard.

The only true way to test them is to send them off, I'm pretty sure that if you send them in for Flow testing, if they are in need of rebuild some of the cost of testing is absorbed into the rebuild.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Thanks for the info on the testing.
Yes it's only an issue below 30 degrees or so. Not really a big issue till it gets in the teens. Then when it starts, it runs rough for a little bit till it gets warm. Truck has no issues at all unless its cold
Plugging it in does make a difference. If I plug it in overnight, it will start even if it's cold out. At least that's the way it was last year, hasn't been cold enough this year to have trouble yet....started a little hard one morning and ran a little rough for 30 seconds or less this year so far.
I have 15w-40 in it now, but have purchased some 5w-40 synthetic to run this winter.
I've never tried disconnecting the ICP because it runs fine when warm out or warmed up. Do you think I should be looking into the ICP?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 03:44 PM
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I apologize, I meant to respond to another thread with the ICP stuff, I feel your issue is leaning more towards the injectors.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 04:58 PM
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Smile 7.3L Power Stroke Cold Start

Since it runs normal once running, maybe you can try Amsoil Synthetic Diesel Oils and Diesel Fuel products before getting involved with expensive diagnostics and repairs. Amsoil is very high quality and results producing. You could consider:
Diesel Fuel Additive Concentrate (ADFCN)
Diesel Recovery Emergency Fuel Treatment (DRCCN)
Diesel Concentrate Plus Cold Flow Improver (DFCCN)
Cold Flow Improver (ACFCN)
Cetane Boost Diesel Fuel Additive (ACBCN)
OE 15W-40 Synthetic Diesel Oil (OEDQT-EA) $6.80qt.
SAE 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil (AMEQT-EA) $9.25qt.
SAE 15W-40 Snythetic Blend Diesel Oil (PCOQT-EA) $8.35qt.
Amsoil Oil Filter: about $23.60
WIX Oil Filter
ZO # 1806273
www.lubedealer.com/tfcautomotiveoils
 
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TimothyFC
Since it runs normal once running, maybe you can try Amsoil Synthetic Diesel Oils and Diesel Fuel products before getting involved with expensive diagnostics and repairs. Amsoil is very high quality and results producing. You could consider:
Diesel Fuel Additive Concentrate (ADFCN)
Diesel Recovery Emergency Fuel Treatment (DRCCN)
Diesel Concentrate Plus Cold Flow Improver (DFCCN)
Cold Flow Improver (ACFCN)
Cetane Boost Diesel Fuel Additive (ACBCN)
OE 15W-40 Synthetic Diesel Oil (OEDQT-EA) $6.80qt.
SAE 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil (AMEQT-EA) $9.25qt.
SAE 15W-40 Snythetic Blend Diesel Oil (PCOQT-EA) $8.35qt.
Amsoil Oil Filter: about $23.60
WIX Oil Filter
ZO # 1806273
www.lubedealer.com/tfcautomotiveoils
This is not a very good was to start out on the forum.
I'm a dealer also and I'll beat your prices. Amsoil is good stuff but it won't undo mechanical wear.
 
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