Another slime in degas thread
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Another slime in degas thread
So I decided to do my first coolant filter change today - its been on for 500 or so miles. During this process I opened the degas cap in order to relieve any pressure. Thats when I noticed some brownish gray slime stuck to the bottom and sides of the degas bottle. I dont remember seeing this when I put the coolant filter on about 500 miles ago as I did drain some of it out to make the job less messy and had to add it back in - not saying it wasnt there I just may not have noticed it. I cut the filter open and it's clean. No sand, discoloration, weird smells nothing. I use a scangauge II to monitor temps and my ECT has been about 180 - 186 (its in the low to mid 30's here) and my EOT is always within +5 degrees going down the road at 60 or so. The slime itself or coolant doesn't smell like oil or fuel and the oil level has always been consistent. What else should I be checking? I know this is typically indicative of an oil cooler going out but was wondering if there was something else I should check before buying a new oil cooler.
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From: Oregon
Sounds like you need to do a good flush your deltas are good but the ECT to me is low like the t/stat is stuck open because a stock t/stat start to open at 192.2 are you still running the Ford Gold junk for coolant
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Hows the oil leval is it low????
If its mixing oil & coolant you need to fix ASAP and stop running it till it is fixed
It may have just popped and you caught it at a good time
And just because the ECT vs EOT spread is good doesnt mean the oil cooler is Good
The problem is they Fail 1 of 2 ways
#1 they busrt and mix the fluids
#2 they plug up with junk on the coolant side
If its mixing oil & coolant you need to fix ASAP and stop running it till it is fixed
It may have just popped and you caught it at a good time
And just because the ECT vs EOT spread is good doesnt mean the oil cooler is Good
The problem is they Fail 1 of 2 ways
#1 they busrt and mix the fluids
#2 they plug up with junk on the coolant side
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Senior User
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From: Oregon
Here is some great stuff
http://home.comcast.net/~lyon.family...ush%20v1-0.pdf
This is the flush i did went back with Delo ELC
Flushing and cleaning the 6.0
Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.
To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.
Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.
Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.
Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean i did 5
Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block i did 6 flushes, my system is clean.
After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.
Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.
new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169
Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
pop
http://home.comcast.net/~lyon.family...ush%20v1-0.pdf
This is the flush i did went back with Delo ELC
Flushing and cleaning the 6.0
Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.
To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.
Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.
Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.
Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean i did 5
Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block i did 6 flushes, my system is clean.
After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.
Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.
new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169
Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
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