When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys tried doing a search for this problem prior but I'm guessing I'm not asking the right question....
Anyway sometimes more often than not when i turn the key to shut her off...she doesn't want to turn off...the key turns but the engine will keep turning it sounds for anywhere from 3 secs to up to 15 seconds and finally die or turn off...Im guessing it has something to do with the carb? Its a 4-bbl Holley carb and I included some pics of it...please help where to start. Thanks!
Do you mean it runs on or "diesels" before dying out? Then, it's prolly running rich and needs to be timed and tuned. When was the last time ya did that?
Do you mean it runs on or "diesels" before dying out? Then, it's prolly running rich and needs to be timed and tuned. When was the last time ya did that?
I just purchased her about 3 weeks ago..so i have no idea..is that what I should be looking up on here?
I just purchased her about 3 weeks ago..so i have no idea..is that what I should be looking up on here?
No. Pardon me if I come off as a hardass but do yourself a favor and buy a basic manual published by Haynes or Chilton (about $20) and start reading, learning, and doing. If you get stuck or are confused by something, then by all means post a thread and we can then try to help.
IMO, FTE isn't a substitute for doing your own homework.
Yea my engine did what it sounds like yours is doing when I bought it. The timing was set too high and the cooling system wasn't doing a great job because it needed new fluid and a thermostat so it'd run hotter than it should. As stated above check your timing and figure out how to adjust that carb if necessary.
No. Pardon me if I come off as a hardass but do yourself a favor and buy a basic manual published by Haynes or Chilton (about $20) and start reading, learning, and doing. If you get stuck or are confused by something, then by all means post a thread and we can then try to help.
IMO, FTE isn't a substitute for doing your own homework.
You know, thats the very first thing that I bought after this truck..my Chiltons repair manual for my year...All I needed was a little help on where to start on this prob...as the basic manuals don't have "engine won't turn off," in their index or don't publish anything from Holley carbs...I already got it fixed from the other posts...thanks guys...
As you can see I am a supporter here and not just a leech trying to get info and run... Thanks for your 2 cents though..
That advice is completely useless, and has nothing to do with the issue. Don't tell someone to spend money on something if you have no logical reasoning to support your claim.
Dieseling is caused by a combination of the throttle plates being open too far when the engine shuts off (too high curb idle, or missing idle stop solenoid when required) and heightened combustion chamber temperatures (often caused by lean mixture and too steep of a timing curve).
If this engine was ever a "smog" motor with EGR, and it was removed without recurving the distributor, then that would likely be a heavy contributor to the problem. If the engine pings at cruise, then the two issues are related.
That advice is completely useless, and has nothing to do with the issue. Don't tell someone to spend money on something if you have no logical reasoning to support your claim.
Dieseling is caused by a combination of the throttle plates being open too far when the engine shuts off (too high curb idle, or missing idle stop solenoid when required) and heightened combustion chamber temperatures (often caused by lean mixture and too steep of a timing curve).
If this engine was ever a "smog" motor with EGR, and it was removed without recurving the distributor, then that would likely be a heavy contributor to the problem. If the engine pings at cruise, then the two issues are related.
I don't know about ping but it def clicks during cruise or when I coast...I was told to replace my manifold gaskets..does that sound correct?
Pinging, or detonation, sounds like marbles rolling around in a coffee can. When it starts happening, it's not in sync with RPM; it literally sounds like marbles rolling around and is very sporadic.
If it ticks exactly in time with RPM, then there are a number of possibilities, one of which is an exhaust leak - however, many engines didn't come with manifold gaskets, so there are none to "replace." Regardless, it's impossible to go straight from "engine makes noise" to "replace manifold gaskets" without any information in between.
Pinging, or detonation, sounds like marbles rolling around in a coffee can. When it starts happening, it's not in sync with RPM; it literally sounds like marbles rolling around and is very sporadic.
If it ticks exactly in time with RPM, then there are a number of possibilities, one of which is an exhaust leak - however, many engines didn't come with manifold gaskets, so there are none to "replace." Regardless, it's impossible to go straight from "engine makes noise" to "replace manifold gaskets" without any information in between.
haha..yea this truck has a handful of things going on..I guess im trying to kill 2 birds with one stone..thanks guys..
That advice is completely useless, and has nothing to do with the issue. Don't tell someone to spend money on something if you have no logical reasoning to support your claim.
Dieseling is caused by a combination of the throttle plates being open too far when the engine shuts off (too high curb idle, or missing idle stop solenoid when required) and heightened combustion chamber temperatures (often caused by lean mixture and too steep of a timing curve).
If this engine was ever a "smog" motor with EGR, and it was removed without recurving the distributor, then that would likely be a heavy contributor to the problem. If the engine pings at cruise, then the two issues are related.
If the selinoid was stuck open would that cause it to keep running! Not dieseling bit keep running. My NEW seliniod will sometimes stick when the motor to turning over after the key is off.
If the selinoid was stuck open would that cause it to keep running! Not dieseling bit keep running. My NEW seliniod will sometimes stick when the motor to turning over after the key is off.
The starter solenoid can keep cranking (not running) the engine if you've released the key from START and it's stuck. The OP's issue appeared when the OP tried to shut the engine off after running. Completely different situation.