So the old truck seems to have developed a problem, two days ago I noticed the clutch pedal as acting funny, meaning that it seemed soft. I originally thought it was a problem with the slave cylinder... 6 months ago I had to repalce the slave cylinder because it wasthe original one that came with the truck and it just snapped right down the middle... The truck as been running fine since and no poblems but like i said 2 day ago the clutch pedal seemed soft.

Anyway, I mostly drive the streets and I dont force the truck too much, I m very easy on the gas pedal but every once in a while I like to feel that I6 power. So, during a drive a few minutes ago there was a somewhat steep incline I was heading up and decided to punch the gas pedal while it was in second and it felt good but then I put it in 3rd gear and nothing... the truck kept moving but it seemed like it has not power or like it just isnt putting any power to the ground... It reved up high but just coasted up that hill.

The only thing that I have recently done is add A/C 2 months ago but it has been running fine, and had to change the drive belt 1.5 weeks ago because the belt that came with the AC kit I bought started fraying and I didnt want to run the risk of getting stuck somewhere because of a broken belt. The belt I have now is a Gates brand from O'reillys and I can already see some wear on the top part of the belt, but it doesnt feel like it is slipping at all, the truck did not jerk when I gave it a good amount of gas or anything like that, it just would not accelerate when I would give it more gas.

Also, once I got over that Incline and on to the freeway I as able to get the truck up to 65 mph no problem at all, but if I punched it, it would stay at the same speed... it still wont put down that torque when i decide to punch it or moving up a semi-steep incline...

What could the problem be?

 

Hmmm...I'm assuming its a M5OD....

Maybe a clutch slipping? Just a thought...

 

if its slipping, youll smell a burnt brake smell as the clutch is made of similar material... next time it does this, do a walk around your truck and smell... if it smells burnt, your slipping the clutch and itll need to be replaced.

 

No noise, some vibration and just last night after I posted this I went out and started the truck an I did smell something. At first I thought it was some kind of electrical burning smell but there wasn't any smoke or melted wires anywhere. So I'm guessing it is the clutch.



Once I'm in there what other parts should I go ahead and replace?

 

Soft pedal usually means a fluid leak in the hydraulic system. Slipping clutch means its either worn out or the slave leaked fluid all over the disc. Put the two together and it's pretty clear what happened.

 

Andy, I'm curious on a matter with my truck...

I have a 1992 F150 300/5 speed...

And I'm suspecting the slave cylinder is leaking, because about once a week, I have to add brake fluid to the system....

And lately....It seems like the amount of fuel pedal I use, doesn't really correlate with the speed I get...

Just seems....Weak....

Could the leaking/improperly functioning slave cylinder allow the clutch to wear its self out? From the S/C not properly applying the correct pressure to engage/disengage the clutch..

Seems totally plausible to me...

Just wondering about a couple extra opinions..

 

Just a thought, if you advance the timing on the distributor a little so that you are idling a little higher with the manual, you will notice that you have alot better kick down and that you will handle hills a bit better. It costs a little bit of fuel effiecency but it is worth it if you use it for a work truck or toy.

My 4.9 with 5 speed seems to be happiest when it is advanced till it is idling around 1200-1500 (manuals idle higher). Not sure how much further on an auto tranny for the sweet spot.

The main reasoning for the extra torque out of it is at 1500 idle as soon as you put it in gear and give it gas, you are already in your torque band which at least on the 92-93 is 1500-around 4500 rpm. would think that it should be roughly the same on all the 4.9l regardless of year.

The reverse is also true, by bringing the timing back a little you increase your MPG, but also sacrifice the top end power. You may not handle the hills without down shifting, but if you mostly drive flat ground, you should benefit from this like I did. I did it to squeeze out a few extra MPG since I did mostly flat highway driving.

I also would like to note that by adjusting the timing back a little you dont make the engine gutless by any means. I have to use 2nd gear on gravel to keep it from ripping the driveway to shreds if I am even slightly rough with it and even second gear is enough to rip the driveway up pretty bad if I get hard on it.

 

The tranny is a 4 speed TOD...

I just read through 22 pages of a thread called "Code 33" on another forum.... The OP was Aliens8mycow and man do i have some respect for that guy figuring out his problem...


Anyway his problem seems to have been a clogged fuel injector... Well I think that is my problem...

4 weeks ago I replaced the valve cover gasket because it had developed a HUGE leak. The gasket was rock hard and when I went to replace it some of it fell appart and pretty big pieces of the gasket fell onto and around the fuel injectors. This happened 4 weeks ago and the truck has been running fine until I punched the gas and the truck didnt put down that power that I had been used to.

If a fuel injector is clogged would these be the symptoms? how do I find out which ones are clogged and how do I tape them to try to losen the crud stuck in them?

 

the only way you would have clogged an injector is by inserting pieces of that gasket into the fuel rail. Id venture to say you wouldnt have pulled the fuel line off and dumped garbage into it.

sounds like your clutch is slipping, you said it revs higher when you get on it, but the truck doesnt gain speed, that is most definatly slipping clutch. either by contamination (slave cyl leak) or just plain worn out.

 

Obviously you should never be losing fluid. It's a closed system. If your slave is leaking, what's happening (and what's probably happening to the OP) is that the slave is leaking fluid onto the clutch disc, causing it to slip.

 

yeah....My whole curiousity.....Is there a X amount of pressure to be on the slave cylinder to engage/disengage everything PROPERLY?

And if so....And there wasn't enough pressure.....Could that lead to premature wear of the the clutch? I'm thinking along the lines of this right now...

 

no. the only thing that happens is if there isnt enough pressure to move the throwout back, it wont shift worth a hoot. unless you ride the clutch like an old lady when you shift it, i dont think you could see wear on the clutch from that before actually changing the gears becomes problematic.

 

It's hard believe it would be do to a leaky sc or it line because it's external.

 

Dang it sidewinder you have everybody confused with our two problems! Haha

I got some codes out of it and I've done some research that leads me to believe that I it was a tranny problem or clutch problem the computer would have given me a code, wouldn't it?

The codes I got were

KEy on engine on
67: Neutral safety circuit failure
95:Fuel pump secondary circuit failure. The EEC senses infinite resistance to ground from the fuel pump on the Fuel Pump Monitor circuit
33:EGR valve opening not detected




Engine running:
12:*Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test high RPM check
44: thermactor air injection system inoperative
33: EGR valve opening not detected
13:*Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test low RPM check

 

Sorry Migs....Lets get things straightened back out....I figured I'd inquire on this thread, vs making one more useles thread...lol..Since we've had similar issues, etc...

Anyways...

1)On the Mazda (M5ODR2) tranny's, the slave cylinder is INTERNAL....Only the ZF's, etc had the external style....

2)Looks like your EGR is either gummed up enough to throw a fault code, or its took a dump....1 or the other...

3)The NSS or Neutral Safety Swith sounds like its went bad...I simply spliced a wire into the unit and crossed it over...No need to pay for something thats a pain in the rear anyways (NOTICE- I AM NOT IN ANY WAY, ENCOURAGING THIS...ITS THERE FOR A REASON)

The reason i simply bypassed it was A)Money is tight, and B) I'm the only one that drives the truck...

Its the red/blue wires if you're wondering...I just used quick connect slices and VOILA!

4)Your Thermactor system isn't working properly...COuld be a bad valve, OR, could be the pump..(Will also show up, if the system has been removed-WHICH DOES NOT, AND I REPEAT, DOES, NOT.....Gain you ANY HP)...


Sorry for the mix up!