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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

351 HO carb

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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 08:51 PM
  #16  
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Yeah, ask me how I knew about the o-rings. Been there, done that, too many times to admit.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 11:10 PM
  #17  
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Haven't we all Gary?

How about sooted up air bleeds?
That's one to make you crazy.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 06:36 PM
  #18  
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Never had, or at least didn't notice I had, sooted-up air bleeds. But, that would would drive you crazy as I'll bet it would give weird metering problems. I do squirt brake cleaner through the air bleeds, as well as every other passage, when I rebuild a carb - now I know why!
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 03:59 PM
  #19  
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This is not as simple as I thought, of course. Can't get truck to crank. Acts like it wants to fire while cranking, but as soon as I lay off the starter it dies, again like its starving for fuel. Tried adjusting the primary float level up and down to get to crank, but to no avail.
There may be something else inside the carb that is stopped up. Truck had sat for a year before trying to fix. The primary fuel bowl and filter looked very clean to me, but may have thin film of deposits that could clog passages.
At this point it looks like a removal and full rebuild, which I was hoping to avoid due to the umpteen dozen vacuum hoses and linkages. Any thoughts on other things to check before the carb comes off?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #20  
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Can you get it to run if you put a little gas down the carb?

Otherwise, I would check the red wire going to the ignition box.
When cranking, power is applied to the white wire in order to retard the ignition timing.
If the red wire does not have power when the ignition switch is in the run position you will have spark while cranking but it will die when you let off the key.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #21  
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Thanks Jim. I'll check the wires tomorrow.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 05:01 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I'll bet it would give weird metering problems.
You'll have no bubbles in the emulsion tubes, PLUS, they act as a siphon break.
Without them fuel continues to flow out the boosters.


Ask me how I know......
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #23  
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08 - Before you crank the engine after pouring the gas in the carb make sure you put the air cleaner back on. A backfire is likely and can be a disaster.

Jim - I remembered the bubbles, but had forgotten the siphon break bit. Both would be a problem, but the siphoning would be a big one. I've read all about it in the books, but never encountered it as a problem.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #24  
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With the front bowl removed, will compressed air applied to the face of the carb damage anything? Or will pressure here do any good for cleaning inside of carb?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 11:05 AM
  #25  
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After you get your carb issues sorted out, I suggest you just remove the brass filter at the inlet and install this in-line paper element, it's a much more efficient filter.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 11:13 AM
  #26  
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I had host of issues with the carb on my 86 F-350. Even after a "proffesional" rebuild the carb still acted up. I finally replaced the carb with a refurbed one from Carburators and more out of Texas.
Carburetors and More
He has the carb you most likely need and his prices are great. I put the carb he sent on the truck and it runs like a top. Plus he'll accept your old carb as a core.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #27  
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Beetle; If I were keeping the truck I would put an inline filter on. But I'm just trying to get it running well enough to sell. Can't afford insurance on more than one truck. But I will miss it when it's gone.
Truck is not ratty at all. Inside of bed is rusty with a crease in the pass side put there by my sister. Top of roof is rusty, but inside is really clean, and truck is tight with few rattles.
Anyone have an opinion as to an asking price if running decent? Standard cab, long bed, exc working 4WD w/locking hubs, 135k original miles. My dad bought this for emergencies when they moved to NC mnts. My Mon went to town one day (below zero temps) and the oil wasn't moving in the engine. Yes, rebuild time. Rebuilt at about 80k. I have been using as a yard truck with occasional towing duties.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 11:57 AM
  #28  
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Wow Beetle,

Even with the heat shield wouldn't a plastic filter like that Fram G-2 be safer up on top of the intake manifold than sitting under the exhaust manifold?

There's a reason manufacturers use rigid metal lines in those sort of locations.

FWIW, I run a large metal cased fuel filter that points right up at the fuel inlet.
It's for a 2000 Nissan Altima, Fram G5247.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #29  
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Surveyor,

Did you get it to run on some fuel down the carb?
So, you know you have spark in the run position?

The only thing you can really damage in the front metering block is the PowerValve.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 12:38 PM
  #30  
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Jim;
Tried fuel in the carb after replacing valve and filter to prime. Same result as before. Will check spark today. Will also blow air thru front of carb. Have to wait on buddy Mon to check if getting enough gas down carb throat.
There is a small dia tube that sticks up above primay venturi. When I raised the float high gas started flowing out, so lowered float some. Is this an overflow tube?
 
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