When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just found out I need new front shocks on my 2001 F350 7.3L CC 4X4 DRW. I am having trouble figuring out what my ride height is according to Rancho shocks. I have the old RSX17071 front shocks, I think the only current options for my model truck is stock?,2.5",& 4". My goal is to find a good Rancho shock replacement that will directly replace my front because I will be keeping the rears for now, but I also would like to consider other brands that will match up with rears(I want to keep a level truck). By the way I think the Rancho website is total TRASH!!!
The best thing would be to measure your shocks that are on there now. Measure them where the truck sits, with the shock still on the truck. Measure from the lower eye where the shock bolt goes through, to the upper eye. Then find a dealer that knows what he's actually doing and he can get you exactly what you need. PM me if you need help finding a dealer.
Rancho has come out with a new shock. Really have not been able to find any reviews about them yet. They do look interesting. Rancho RS7000MT. They look like bilstein's. I guess thats the style now.
Do you have a leveling kit or lift on the truck? Leveling kit would be the 2.5" model or a 4" lift would be the 4" model.
Well thats kinda my question, my truck appears to have the 4" lift, however does the older lift shock directly match up with the new lift shock, remember I need to know if I will end up with a level truck with new shocks on the front axle and old shocks on the rear axle. Also want the option to install a different brand up front. Today however I decided to check on some air bags also.
Longer or shorter shocks will not change the ride height of your vehicle. They make the shocks different lengths to ensure they have enough travel in both directions on rough roads. You can change brands or even lengths all you want. It won't affect the ride height, just the effectiveness of the shock.
Longer or shorter shocks will not change the ride height of your vehicle. They make the shocks different lengths to ensure they have enough travel in both directions on rough roads. You can change brands or even lengths all you want. It won't affect the ride height, just the effectiveness of the shock.
Sorry about that what I really mean is getting the shocks with the right specs so that the vehicle is supported equally from front to back like it is now. Right now the pairing is front RSX17071 & rear RSX17072. Together they deliver a level ride height on my truck because they have paired specs. Trouble is making sure I match those specs.
Hey F350-6 I appreciate you helping me out with this. Maybe you can help me figure this out.
........Right now the pairing is front RSX17071 & rear RSX17072. Together they deliver a level ride height on my truck because they have paired specs......
Read what F350-6 said again. The shocks have nothing to do with creating the ride height. Shocks do not determine the ride height.
Ride height determines the shocks. You have a 4 inch lift, so you need to purchase shocks designed for a 4 inch lift.
Read what F350-6 said again. The shocks have nothing to do with creating the ride height. Shocks do not determine the ride height.
Ride height determines the shocks. You have a 4 inch lift, so you need to purchase shocks designed for a 4 inch lift.
Hey redford, so I must be misunderstanding the suspension system on my truck. It sure looks like the only part(s) providing elevation is the shock absorbers. I dont really see how the leaf springs could be delivering the elevation because they dont look modified, I think, looks like everything is factory. Now I have always assumed my truck had some aftermarket suspension parts that gave it its lift, most stock Super Duty trucks on the car lot dont ride quite as high as mine and some are a good bit lower. I guess I just always thought that shocks are pressurized and exert a force even at rest and that, that influences the vehicle's stance. Now, all I have said are assumptions and I have been fortunate to have never had to replace any suspension parts on any of the vehicles I have owned. Ok, F350-6 & redford let me have it !!!!!!!!
That's why we're here. To learn. There are several ways to lift the front end and not change the springs. Blocks could be installed under the front springs (bad idea). A mini spring pack could be installed under the front springs. A drop shackle kit could be installed. Any of those items would retain the factory springs and not provide any additional arch in them. They would also be covered with dirt so they would blend in well.
If you're not sure, unbolt the lower end of the shock and let it extend out, or remove it completely and let it extend, and then measure the length of the extended shock. That will help you figure out which shocks you need.
Hey redford, so I must be misunderstanding the suspension system on my truck. It sure looks like the only part(s) providing elevation is the shock absorbers. I dont really see how the leaf springs could be delivering the elevation because they dont look modified, I think, looks like everything is factory.
Now, all I have said are assumptions and I have been fortunate to have never had to replace any suspension parts on any of the vehicles I have owned. Ok, F350-6 & redford let me have it !!!!!!!!
Here is proof that shocks only dampen while springs provide lift. If you remove your shock from the SD...nothing happens. The truck will remain at the same level.
However...if you removed a spring, then that entire portion of truck would fall. OBTW...don't ever remove a spring unless you have the truck supported at an appropriate location like the frame.
If you do the measurements from each eye-hole...you'll be able to find the correct shocks. Make sure you keep with the same type of shock since only replacing the front.
There are several ways to lift the front end and not change the springs. A drop shackle kit could be installed. Any of those items would retain the factory springs and not provide any additional arch in them.
.
Well F350-6, looks like I have the drop shackle kit on my front leaf springs, after a second look. So everything you guys have told me makes perfect sense now. Thanks guys. However, looks like I will not be replacing my front shock absorbers after all,even though they are due for replacement I'm sure. My second & third opinion indicated alignment issue only, causing abnormal tire wear and tread separation on passenger side. At this point looks like only 2 new front tires,alignment, and maybe a camber kit if needed.
By the way is it not standard procedure to both TOP & BOTTOM ball joints at the same time and also use the ones with grease fittings as replacement? Just looking over some past repairs, since the truck will be back in the shop, no better time for corrections.
Typically it's a good idea to replace both upper and lower ball joints at the same time, but technically, you only have to replace the one(s) that is bad.
Using ball joints with grease fittings is a great idea if you grew up greasing things like ball joints. The non-greasable ones hold up better than many of the old fashioned greasable ones from years ago. I think the important part is to get quality parts and install them correctly.
I have grease fittings on mine, but the factory sealed ball joints held up a surprisingly long time.
What is the easiest way to tell if the lower ball joints were replaced, 30,000 miles ago at the dealership? Pretty sure I checked it over back then, almost always do, but someone is telling me it looks like they did not. It is becoming apparent that something was not done right as usual, given my severe abnormal tire wear.
Unless you had factory ball joints in there 30,000 miles ago and now have greasable ball joints, there's no way to know what the dealer did without looking at the service records.
You can check the condition of your ball joints with the help of a friend. Jack the vehicle up so the front tire is an inch or so off the ground. Grab a block of wood and place it about 6" away from your tire and take a long pry bar and shove the end under the tire with the bar resting on the block of wood. Push straight down on the pry bar so it pivots on the wood like a see saw. While someone is doing this, the other can watch the ball joints to see if there is any play in them as the tire is moving up and down.