In my other post I replaced the starter to find my pass. Side rear lower stud broke off flush in the head. I have read many post online and (kbsupercrew) has by far the best wright up. But there's no mention of a broken off bolt flush. My dad paid big money to have his done...i don't want to. My question....is there any tips or tricks on drilling out a stud. It seems pretty tight in there to drill it.

 

If it isn't leaking now I wouldn't worry about it, I doubt there are many 2V's left that have all 16 studs fully intact these days.

 

It has a leak on start up but then it goes away.

I've been reading about a angle drill or adapter? This would work perfect.

 

Hello I am a new member I am the proud owner of a 97 F-150 4.6 4x4 and am in the process of replacing my head gaskets and also have several broken studs..... My local parts store shows a part number but are not available, are these dealer items or does anyone have a solution/alternative repair any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated thanks

 

I'll be tackling the feat soon myself, as my manifold is so badly rusted, that in some spots, it is starting to rust right through!! All my 8 studs are still in tact as of now!!
Rich

 

00GT how flush is the stud ? Are you going to remove the manifold to extract it or try with it on?

 

It looks like its broke even with head. Yes I plan on removing the manifold and replacing all the studs. When I had the starter off I noticed to bottom rear manifold looked loose. I put a wrench on it and it just kept turning.

Funny thing is this truck is from Florida and has never been in Michigan salt but yet I have a broken stud. The nuts all looked to be in good shape with minimal rust.

 

Well i use a right angle drill, a matco square drive easy out alot of penetrating oil and a whole lot of patience. I have performed countless surgeries of this type and if you keep a cool and steady hand you will make it without pulling the head off.

And i saw someone mention it, yeah buy the studs and nuts from the dealer,, you are better off that way

 

I have a friend that has a right angle drill I can borrow. I'll make sure to get some good easy outs. I think the rest of the nuts I'm going to grind off and turn them out with vicegrips like (kbsupercrew) did. Seems to be the lesser risk of breaking anymore.

Also I check with Ford for the studs there over $7 a stud! I would like to go stainless but can't seem to find ss studs just bolts.

 

Yeah those studs are a bit pricey. Most of the time I dont think about cost on that stuff since I am installing them for other people.

Also if you are thinking about just hacking the ends off of the others you may want to look into a stud extractor. It is a socket that comes in different sizes to fit over studs and has a cam system inside that grabs and locks onto the stud. The one for that is an 8mm(if i remember right) Combine that with a universal joint adaptor and you will have the ones that are above the surface out in a matter of minutes. Plus it keeps you from scaring the heads gasket surface with vise grips. I went that route for a while until i discovered that tool, now i wouldn't do it any other way

 

this is my first Triton I've took apart they say its a 10 hour job was pretty easy access to everything courtesy of the 3" body lift my dealer quoted 1.87 for studs and I was able to get flange studs from local parts store dealer didnt show them

 

What are "flange studs"?

 

flange studs are where the exhaust bolts to the manifold

 

Oh.......I have never heard of flange studs, but have used flange nuts before...

 

if you have the room to get to the stud that is broke off flush with head you can try this method i have had some luck with. find a nut about the same size as stud maybe just a little bigger and weld it to the stud. hold it over stud with vice grips or the ground clamp of welder and fill the center full of weld. the heat will help with removing stud and if breaks well your right back where u started but if works it saves some time