Not Starting
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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Not Starting
Hey everybody, I'm a new kid on the block and I need your guys help.
I've been working on the work horse for 3 days now and having very little luck getting her started. A little background for ya: Truck has been working great for the most part... would do a little hiccup on the road and intermittently turn off while driving once in a blue moon. We parked her one night and I went on a trip, came back and she won't start. I was only getting 20ish PSI during crank and after inspecting the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator block concluded that the fuel pump was faulty. Well replaced the fuel pump and still nothing. I'm still only getting ~20PSI during crank, and to be honest I have no clue what the heck is wrong..
additional info:
-new battery terminal clamps all the way around
-jumper box on battery to insure 12V during crank
-WTS light functional
-oil level good
-HPOP reservoir full
-fuel filter clean at time of inspection
-No Smoke from tailpipe
any ideas?
I've been working on the work horse for 3 days now and having very little luck getting her started. A little background for ya: Truck has been working great for the most part... would do a little hiccup on the road and intermittently turn off while driving once in a blue moon. We parked her one night and I went on a trip, came back and she won't start. I was only getting 20ish PSI during crank and after inspecting the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator block concluded that the fuel pump was faulty. Well replaced the fuel pump and still nothing. I'm still only getting ~20PSI during crank, and to be honest I have no clue what the heck is wrong..
additional info:
-new battery terminal clamps all the way around
-jumper box on battery to insure 12V during crank
-WTS light functional
-oil level good
-HPOP reservoir full
-fuel filter clean at time of inspection
-No Smoke from tailpipe
any ideas?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
Does the tachometer move at all while you're cranking it? If not, I am guessing CPS, but that's always a good place to start with these engines. Get one from Ford or International (less than $50) since the ones you get from the parts stores are junk. At any rate, it's a goo idea to have a spare, so I would start there.
BTW, 20 PSI fuel pressure while cranking is fine. You're looking for around 60-65 PSI at idle, so you may check that when you're done and it is running again.
BTW, 20 PSI fuel pressure while cranking is fine. You're looking for around 60-65 PSI at idle, so you may check that when you're done and it is running again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
FWIW, I would still try the CPS if it were mine. Like I said it pays to have a spare anyway.
20PSI of fuel pressure is fine for getting the engine started. I seriously doubt you'll ever make 40 PSI just cranking with the starter.
The only other thing you could try would be to try starting it with the ICP unplugged. Here is a picture of where the ICP is located in case you need it.
The ICP senses the HPOP oil pressure and reports it to the PCM so that it can adjust that pressure by way of the IPR. If the IPR gets stuck, unplugging the ICP can sometimes "unstick" the IPR and allow the engine to start. Also look inside the connector for the ICP. If it has oil in it, chances are good that the ICP is shot. Unplugging the ICP will allow the truck to run, but it won't run real well down the road and will set a Check Engine Light.
20PSI of fuel pressure is fine for getting the engine started. I seriously doubt you'll ever make 40 PSI just cranking with the starter.
The only other thing you could try would be to try starting it with the ICP unplugged. Here is a picture of where the ICP is located in case you need it.
The ICP senses the HPOP oil pressure and reports it to the PCM so that it can adjust that pressure by way of the IPR. If the IPR gets stuck, unplugging the ICP can sometimes "unstick" the IPR and allow the engine to start. Also look inside the connector for the ICP. If it has oil in it, chances are good that the ICP is shot. Unplugging the ICP will allow the truck to run, but it won't run real well down the road and will set a Check Engine Light.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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tried it, nothing... no smoke or attempt to turn over.. I'm doing to grab a Cam sensor but like I said the tach is moving so not sure that'll fix it. I'm starting to think that maybe its the injectors? but like I said I really don't have much experience dealing with diesels so I'm hesitant to make that conclusion. Any testing procedures for the glow plugs or injectors?
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Sorry, see you have only 4 posts and welcome to FTE.
IDM is "injector driver module" located on drivers side fender. Not saying that's it but many times it has happened and only after user replaced a bunch of other parts did they check. So ... it costs nothing to unbolt it and shake, just to eliminate the possibility.
IDM is "injector driver module" located on drivers side fender. Not saying that's it but many times it has happened and only after user replaced a bunch of other parts did they check. So ... it costs nothing to unbolt it and shake, just to eliminate the possibility.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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yeah I'm a noob. lol. but no worries and thanks.
so tried shaking and water out of that thing and nothing. I'm seriously stumped on this one. its starting to seem very electrical to me. are there any testing procedures for the GP's or injectors?
so tried shaking and water out of that thing and nothing. I'm seriously stumped on this one. its starting to seem very electrical to me. are there any testing procedures for the GP's or injectors?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Did you ever try a new CPS? Your random shut off fits some of the classic CPS symptoms. Be sure to only use a Ford or International CPS. Too many issues and failures with the aftermarket ones.
Got a chip or tuner in the truck? Any other mods? If we suggested trying to start with the ICP sensor unplugged or checking the tin nut on the back of the IPR, would you know what we're talking about or do you need pictures?
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
Also check Powertrain Control Module
PCM is the engine computer, yeah, a separate electronic box from the Injector Driver Module.
The hiccup-and-refire sounds electronic rather than mechanical. You may have a corroded or loose connection, resulting in an intermittent open connection that finally stayed open.
The PCM is mounted on the firewall, driver's side, low and close to fender. It's actually pushed through an opening in firewall, from the engine side into the passenger compartment. It sits just above your left foot. The wiring connector is on the engine side. I recollect that you can access the two screws holding the connector to the PCM without removing anything. It's worthwhile pulling the connector, checking for corrosion, spraying both sides of the connection with contact cleaner (and better cleaning if gunked up), then replacing the connection and snugging it up. Might also consider putting some silicone grease on the connector gasket.
Also, does the truck have a power chip? If so, check those connections. Loose connection can drive the PCM (and driver) batty.
The hiccup-and-refire sounds electronic rather than mechanical. You may have a corroded or loose connection, resulting in an intermittent open connection that finally stayed open.
The PCM is mounted on the firewall, driver's side, low and close to fender. It's actually pushed through an opening in firewall, from the engine side into the passenger compartment. It sits just above your left foot. The wiring connector is on the engine side. I recollect that you can access the two screws holding the connector to the PCM without removing anything. It's worthwhile pulling the connector, checking for corrosion, spraying both sides of the connection with contact cleaner (and better cleaning if gunked up), then replacing the connection and snugging it up. Might also consider putting some silicone grease on the connector gasket.
Also, does the truck have a power chip? If so, check those connections. Loose connection can drive the PCM (and driver) batty.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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finally fixed the beast! 
It came down a a **** on of connection cleaner, a CPS, and the PCM relay.
I'd like to thank all of you guys for for ideas and input I'd still be beating my head against the wall if it wasn't for y'all
It came down a a **** on of connection cleaner, a CPS, and the PCM relay.
I'd like to thank all of you guys for for ideas and input I'd still be beating my head against the wall if it wasn't for y'all
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Reno, NV
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Celaya, Gto. MX
