I just put an L tank in my truck. And I am wanting to tie it in with my factory fuel tank. What is the best way to do this. I was thinking of using the the drain plug and a 3/8 hose and running it in the vent tube on the fill neck would this work?

 

Read this:

http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.co...7-06-18_R1.pdf

That outlines the process pretty well.

 

You can use a 3-way valve, like ones' used in WVO (veggie oil setups), and install it, inline, pre-pump. This way, atta flip of a switch, your pulling from either tank. Like you said, use the drain plug, and take a line from there, to 1-port on the valve.

 

I use the RDS fuel tank kit, mentioned in the PDF. I added it to the filler neck, the check valve keeps it from overflowing. If you just plumbed the fuel tank in, it could possibly over flow. I left my tank open over night...no over flow. Very simple but works well.

 

What are you guys running in your zf6 for oil? Can I run just synthetic gear oil? Or use there a certain kind and weight that is supposed to be run?

 

I'm run'n Amsoil syn ATF

 

I thought factory spec was Mercon? Right?

If so any Dex/Merc fluid will work.

 

I installed a 91 gal. Aux tank in mine and for a few years I ran it as a gravity system. The down side is that I wanted my tank for more of a long term reserve than something I was going to fill up every week. With the gravity flow you either leave it open at all times or you need to turn the valve at the tank, let it refill the main, then turn the valve off again unless you want to leave it open at all times. I finally installed a Holley fuel pump in the bed a few years ago and ran a toggle switch to the dash so that way I can run the process from inside the truck without having to get out and open my bed cover. Not that opening the bed cover is a big deal; however, when you have items loaded on the top of the cover (like an ATV) it may be a pain.

 

On my trip to rre this year I was in a hurry and plumed the tank in to the return line with a 1/4 turn wog valve and rolled out like that. Only problem was when we got about 150 miles down the road when we stopped to grab a soda I saw the dripping coming from my tank! Sure nuff it was overflowing my main tank but but I think it was mostly from a slosh effect cause the tank does have some lil check valves in the vents on the main tank. So instead of closing it all the way I just cracked the 1/4 turn valve so it would basically trickle into my main tank. Worked great and never ran over again and as far as the fuel gauge it never came off of full. Also like the PDF mentions an inline filter is important. It would have saved me much headache toward the end of my trip.
Check out this video on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cawqz...e_gdata_player


Sent from my iPhone

 

Need to edit but it's not letting me. I ran the line to the vent line not the return line! Also thanks for the link Trey!

 

I'm wanting to do something like this. Just something simple and cheap. What are you running for a filter.

 

Love the tank , fits perfectly, nice....

 

I'm actually thinking about selling the L tank and buying one that does not have the L so I don't have to get a different tool box. I have a deep box and with the L my tool box sits about 4 inches higher then my bed rails.

 

I was wanting to put a tank in my truck the only thing I was thinking about other than the pdf is after the filter putting a small 12v fuel pump that is ran off a switch in the cab. This would give me a way to shut off the gravity feed and get that last little bit out of the tank. I could even put a timer on the pump so not to overfill when turned on. I just don't know if it is legal.

 

It took a little digging to find; but I finally got an RDS tank that would fit under my Roll "N" Lock bed cover. It is a rectangular 55 gallon diamond plate tank and I used the install kit. It works great and I have never had a drip from the main tank cap. It gives me a total of 90 gallons for those long hauls.