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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #1  
66-Ol'Henry's Avatar
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2 questions

i need some help from you guys.. my 66 F100 has been actin pretty qwerky lately


my brakes have been acting really funny lately. when im istting at a light the pedal starts to creep its way to the floor. but its VERY slow and you have to really concentrate on it to feel it. but its eases its way down and then my truck inches forward. i dont have power brakes, so no brake booster. and i bleed and adjusted all the brakes. and clues???


secondly... also when im sittin at a light. when i dont have the choke pulled out and im in drive, its seems as though my truck starts to die. its spits and sputters then dies.. its works fien when i pull the choke out a little though. but when im in park or neutral it does fine, it never use to do that before. looked at the sparkplugs and there fine, and the timing is on spot. maybe the points??
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 07:08 PM
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Sounds like a leak somewhere in the brake system to me. And it sounds like maybe your idle speed is to slow
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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i wouldnt think its a leak, cause the brakes arnt squishy they are still stiff like normal, but after sittin in one spot for like 5 seconds then it creeps its way to the floor.

and the idle speed, isent that the timeing?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 66-Ol'Henry
my brakes have been acting really funny lately. when im istting at a light the pedal starts to creep its way to the floor. but its VERY slow and you have to really concentrate on it to feel it. but its eases its way down and then my truck inches forward. i dont have power brakes, so no brake booster. and i bleed and adjusted all the brakes. and clues???
If you are not losing fluid, it is a bad master cylinder. Best to get a new, not a remanufactured one.

Originally Posted by 66-Ol'Henry
secondly... also when im sittin at a light. when i dont have the choke pulled out and im in drive, its seems as though my truck starts to die. its spits and sputters then dies.. its works fien when i pull the choke out a little though. but when im in park or neutral it does fine, it never use to do that before. looked at the sparkplugs and there fine, and the timing is on spot. maybe the points??
It might be your idle speed setting, idle mixture, or the carb needs to be rebuilt. Probably not points or dwell.

May be plugged PCV valve or PCV hose, possibly the PCV induction plate under the carb, rotted vacuum lines, or broken vacuum connections.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 07:39 PM
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i dont think it would be vacuume... cause it runs just fine with the choke all the way in when im parked or in neutral or when im giving it gas. not the carb cause thats brand new and only a year old. and isent the idle speed adjusted with the timeing?

the brakes your probably right, ill have to look into gettin a new one of those, hasent been replaced in a while.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 66-Ol'Henry
I wouldn't think it's a leak, 'cause the brakes aren't squishy, they are still stiff like normal.
A brake pedal sinking slowly towards the floor while your foot is applying pressure to it...is a dead give-away that brake fluid is leaking...from somewhere.

Could be: Wheel cylinders, one/both of the front rubber brake hoses, rear brake rubber hose, cracked/rusted out steel line(s), master cylinder.

If you have power brakes, the master cylinder, when defective, will leak into the booster. If no power brakes, the fluid is leaking from the rear of the cylinder, inside the cab.

Do not throw money at the problem by buying something you may not need...until you know for sure where the leak is.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #7  
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Did both start around the same time? Do you have a power brake booster? If yes, then you may try that. It may be more than coincidence that both symtoms happen at a red light. Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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no, they didnt happen at the same time, but it was within a couple day span. i do not have a power booster, so that wouldnt be it. but when me and my dad bleed the brakes he didnt notice any leakage at the tires. and i dont loose fluid. its just seems like pressure is not where it needs to be. BUT when we were bleeding the brakes and we got to the driver side front brake the brake was stiff to press down and when it got to like an inch left to move you can hear a hissing sound when it presses down.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #9  
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Sounds like ''air in the Brake lines? bleed them again and make sure you add fluid as you
bleed, plus it's a good idea to bleed out front and back and let it bleed till you see new fluid coming out! you may have to bleed out a pint or more? but it seems like air in the lines if your wheel cylinders aren't leaking? as far as cutting out at stand still in gear, it could be trash in the carb or low idle? if you have a manual trans, curb idle should be 8 too 1 thousand rpms, auto, is 550 to 650 rpms, if you have a tach you can check it with that'', and curb idle is idleing in gear, foot on the brake, hope this helps?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 10:00 PM
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ill have to talk to my gramps this weekend... he knows this truck inside and out.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 01:47 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by huckdeuceman
Sounds like ''air in the Brake lines? bleed them again and make sure you add fluid as you
bleed, plus it's a good idea to bleed out front and back and let it bleed till you see new fluid coming out! you may have to bleed out a pint or more? but it seems like air in the lines if your wheel cylinders aren't leaking? as far as cutting out at stand still in gear, it could be trash in the carb or low idle? if you have a manual trans, curb idle should be 8 too 1 thousand rpms, auto, is 550 to 650 rpms, if you have a tach you can check it with that'', and curb idle is idleing in gear, foot on the brake, hope this helps?
i have a 66 with a 352 and four on the floor and i idle at 625-650 without a problem? is there something off with at?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 08:28 AM
  #12  
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Not at all'' if it idles well at 625 to 650 that's fine! the reason for higher idle on manual trans is so you don't dump the clutch as easy.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 09:59 AM
  #13  
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There is a screw on the throttle linkage to adjust the idle. It is not done by adjusting the timing.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 11:01 AM
  #14  
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????didn't hear a mention of adjusting idle by timing on this thread?
Wrong post?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 11:03 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by huckdeuceman
????didn't hear a mention of adjusting idle by timing on this thread?
Wrong post?
Reread post # 3 and post # 5
 
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