How big of a deal is into pull the IPR? Is it a serviceable part or is it a replacement? As for the oil on the ICP and harness, I figured that maybe the harness was soaked from the old sensor.

 

The IPR is right next to the ICP on your truck and takes a special socket or 1 3/8" box wrench cut off for access. If the screen is just plugged it's a service part. If the screen is torn it's a replacement part. I'd say yours needs replaced. You can find them on ebay for 75-120. Dealer wants about 300.

 

It could be soaked from the old sensor IDK
and could be contaminating the signal hard to say from this side of the computer screen
Check it out see if you can tell if the new sensor is blown out to

as for the IPR its under the turbo I beleive some have pulled it with out the removal of the turbo

I would inspect the ICP sensor and pigtail first and see what comes up if the new ICP is bad then time to dig deeper
maybe you could clean the pigtail and try it if the ICP sensor looks ok

 

How about my0.5 ICP and 0.0 injector pulse width readings? Do these help point to the issue?

 

.5 ICP would indicate low high pressure oil IIRC but 0.00 IPW would indicate your injectors aren't firing. Are you reading ICP or ICP desired? ICP is actual while ICP desired is what the PCM wants.

 

I am reading via an Insight- so whatever that is. I thought I read that 0.8 is needed for firing- is it 0.8 and higher or lower?

Also, how do you access the IPR? I did the ICP from the bottom - is the IPR a from-the-top part?

 

You're correct. I don't know why I was thinking .18--brain fart there. I usually read it in pressure and not voltage.

What I'm thinking is that the IPR valve is stuck open from trash not allowing you any HPO pressure to build.

I did the IPR from top and bottom because of my aftermarket parts, but IMHO it's easier to break the valve loose from the top after removing the FICM. I also loosened the y-pipe for ease of access.

 

Appreciate your time and input. I think the Insight is showing actual reading because when I unplug ICP it displays 0.0 and not a "default" voltage.

So, is IPR removal pretty much removing degas bottle and FICM and that's about it? It's sounding like I probably need to take a look at it, but of course I am trying to avoid any wasted steps. I sure would like Cheezit to check out this thread and weigh in with his thoughts as well.

 

well....your ICP is way low at .5 so you've got a stuck IPR, HPO leak or failed HPOP. Given the symptoms you posted about surging and no start I'm still saying it's something with the IPR valve---pugged or failed screen and stuck open valve.

 

+1 IMO Here's the blurb from Bismic's spreadsheet on the IPR removal.

<table width="872" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><col width="872"><tr height="95"> <td class="xl66" style="height:71.45pt; width:654pt" height="95" width="872" align="left">Remove the coolant reservoir and take the FICM and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the IPR. You can then pull that harness all the way to the front of the truck and work on it easily. Be VERY careful w/ the FICM connectors! Use the 1 3/8 inch IPR socket to remove it after disconnecting the harness.</td> </tr></table>

 

The FUEL_PW reading 0 indicates the injectors are NOT being commanded to fire, hence why your truck won't start. ICP volts indicating 0.5 is not enough. The minimum reading needed is 0.8 (but usually gets up to about 1.5 when things are normal).

 

I guess tonight after work I will start gaining access to the IPR- not sure if I will get it out tonight though. It sounds like I need to track down that special Lisle socket to get it out, which sucks because I just recently had to buy that Snap-On ICP socket and that wasn't immediately available.

 

Okay- tracked down an IPR socket locally today so now I need to get that IPR out of the truck to check this screen I keep hearing about.

One more thing I forgot to mention- when I had the Bulletproof kit installed earlier in the year that screen under the oil cooler block was torn (which I heard was common). The new Bulletproof manifold that replaces the oil cooler has a permanent stainless screen on it that replaces that stock plastic screen that was torn on my truck. Does this help point to anything else?

 

I am having the exact same issues on my truck! I pulled the ICP yesterday and the connector was soaked with oil. Looks like I will be pulling the IPR as well to check for failure. Let me know what you find Tampa250.

 

The new BPD screen on that housing won't affect anything negatively. It is nicely mounted with safety wire that will not allow the bolts to back out, nor will the heavy duty screen fail. It is very common for the IPR screen to get trashed and clogged after working on/replacing the oil cooler. Sometimes you can get lucky and just clean the screen, other times you'll need to replace the IPR valve because it can get contaminated and the valve gets fubared. If your old HPO screen in the reservoir was torn, that just means the possibilities of contamination are multiplied significantly.