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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

6.0 questions

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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 11:23 AM
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6.0 questions

alright before I get started I know they're are hundreds of forums over this motor, but I haven't really found exactly what I'm looking for yet, so this just seemed easier to post, and ask.

ok, these 6.0 psd's, it seems to me that the issues are with the injectors, heads, and head gasket. now, are these problems, and any other major problems with these motors mostly occuring in the early years, like 03-05? are in all of the years, and if I were looking into buying one, like an 06-07, then would I be taking a huge risk on having to deal with the costly issues? also if I were looking into one, that say was like an 06-07 with over 120K then most likely wouldn't these issues have already been resolved if they were going to happen? the reason I"m asking is because I really want a PSD, however, I don't really need the 7.3, and plus I really like the 05- and up, I currently have an 05 5.4, but I really would rather have the PSD motor instead of the triton. any information before I get too attatched and decide to just take the risk would be greatly appreciated, also, even though I'm very smart when it comes to machanics, I've had no experience working on a diesel motor, are these issues, mostly concerned with the injectors a hard DIY job, and whats the costs like for parts and labor on these common issues. sorry a a lot of questions, but I'm really considering buying an 06 6.0, but I just don't want to make a bad and very costly decision, thanks in advance. -Josh
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 11:31 AM
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Moved to the 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel forum.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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It' not too hard to work on if you have the tools, the issue for most is figuring out what the problem is. Reading posts here at FTE and asking questions can remedy most of those problems. '06-'07 is a good choice but wouldn't be afraid of other years if you find a good deal.
First thing to know is the factory gauges are really idiot lights (engine temp, trans temp, and oil pressure) so don't rely on them. A ScanGauge ($150) or other device that plugs into the OBD port is your best bet to assess the condition of the truck. The first order of business would be to look at the oil temp vs the coolant temp. If there is more than 15deg difference the oil cooler may be plugging up. This is the beginning of a cascade of failures that can cost several thousand dollars to repair. When the oil cooler plugs, coolant flow to the EGR cooler is restricted enough to eventually cause it to fail (and/or the oil cooler can fail, allowing oil to enter the cooling system). Coolant from the EGR cooler enters the intake manifold and the combustion chamber causing extreme pressure that can stretch the head bolts and allow the head gaskets to leak. Without accurate info (gauges) all this (or just part of it) can happen with little to no warning.*
Many people have used aftermarket parts to remedy some of these problems and you may find a used truck with head studs instead of the factory bolts, EGR cooler deletes or EGR coolers replaced with stronger units.
I'm backing up a little here but the beginning of these problem is thought to be a coolant issue. Good maintenance is the key to getting long service out of a 6.0 and ignoring the coolant can kill it. There is some debate about wether the coolant type is the problem or casting sand left in the coolant passages during manufacture is the problem. There is much reading you can do here on FTE on that issue. Look for white residue around the coolant overflow tank on any truck you are thinking of buying. That would indicate it has been overheated.
The turbo on these trucks is a variable vane design with no pressure relief valve. They have been a little prone to sticking if the truck sits alot or is driven easy all the time. It seems to help to "blow it out" every once in a while.
Fuel injector "stiction" can be an issue on a higher mileage truck. Arrange to crank the truck cold and listen for very rough idle compared to a hot start. There are other causes for this but be aware the fuel injectors are expensive (a whole set dealer installed can be $2k) and negotiate the price accordingly.*So, oil cooler, EGR cooler, head bolt, head gaskets, turbo, and fuel injectors, just to name the biggies.
The good news is - under all these issues is a very good engine in a great truck. Many, if not all, of the thing I listed can be avoided by keeping up with services, so you're looking for a truck that has been kept-up very well. Lots of folks have lots of miles on their 6.0 without any of these issues. Some important things to know are; Use Ford/Motorcraft/Racor oil filters, many aftermarket filters don't fit correctly and allow oil to bypass the element. As a matter of fact, it's better to stick with Ford filters for the whole truck, an aftermarket oil filter would be a red flag on one I was looking to buy.*
An Oasis report is a list of dealer maintenance and repairs. You'll have to go to the dealer for one and some have gotten picky the last couple of years, requiring you to own the vehicle before giving you a report.
I hope this info helps. It's pretty general. Hang around here on FTE and get into the Tech Folders and learn the "search" function for more complete info. There are many knowledge folks here and even a few Ford Techs that can help with specific questions you may have.*
Good luck in you search!
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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Read thru here and it's pretty much answer all your questions: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
 
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