fuel gauge problem
fuel gauge problem
Hi Guys, filled my tank today but the fuel gauge doesn't read full! it was a Ranger xlt camper, now I believe this came with twin fuel tanks under the bed but these have been removed and a cab tank has been added, would that make a difference to the reading?
Thanks
Thanks
No. The guage reads the amount of ground applied to the circuit. The more fuel the more ground. This is handled by the float in the tank. So the question is what reading are you getting? What makes you think it came with dual tanks under the bed?
Standard equipment in all 1967/72 F100/750's: In-Cab Fuel Tank.
A 25 gallon auxillary fuel tank was an option for 1967/72 F100/350 Stylesides.
It is mounted under the bed on the inside of the left frame rail, the fuel cap is exposed.
1970/72: The fuel filler neck/fuel cap pokes thru the left quarter panel BELOW the scallop (bumpside) line, in front of the left rear wheel. From the OP's pic, this appears to be what the truck had.
Ford did not offer saddle tanks for any truck, so if this truck had them, they were aftermarket..and usually, the fuel caps are behind aluminum doors that were riveted to the quarter panels.
A 25 gallon auxillary fuel tank was an option for 1967/72 F100/350 Stylesides.
It is mounted under the bed on the inside of the left frame rail, the fuel cap is exposed.
1970/72: The fuel filler neck/fuel cap pokes thru the left quarter panel BELOW the scallop (bumpside) line, in front of the left rear wheel. From the OP's pic, this appears to be what the truck had.
Ford did not offer saddle tanks for any truck, so if this truck had them, they were aftermarket..and usually, the fuel caps are behind aluminum doors that were riveted to the quarter panels.
You can test the gauge by pulling the wire from the top of the sending unit on top of the in-cab tank and grounding it...if the gauge is good, it will do a full sweep and peg on Full. If the gauge checks out, you may have a damaged float in the tank or just dirty/cruddy contacts inside the fuel sending unit. The float is easy to replace...doesn't even have to be the stock float for the gauge to work...one of the guys on one of the bump forums posted that he used a wine cork for a float and it still works.
To clean the contacts in the sending unit, remove the five little screws that hold it to the tank...remove the sending unit and float (one piece), bend the three little tabs up on the side of the sending unit, separate the pieces and clean the metal contacts...I cleaned mine with carb cleaner and cue-tips then lightly sanded both with real fine sandpaper. My gauge was pegging out between 3/4's and Full, even when the tank was topped off. Cleaning the contacts solved that problem...entire job took about 45 minutes.
To clean the contacts in the sending unit, remove the five little screws that hold it to the tank...remove the sending unit and float (one piece), bend the three little tabs up on the side of the sending unit, separate the pieces and clean the metal contacts...I cleaned mine with carb cleaner and cue-tips then lightly sanded both with real fine sandpaper. My gauge was pegging out between 3/4's and Full, even when the tank was topped off. Cleaning the contacts solved that problem...entire job took about 45 minutes.
You can test the gauge by pulling the wire from the top of the sending unit on top of the in-cab tank and grounding it...if the gauge is good, it will do a full sweep and peg on Full. If the gauge checks out, you may have a damaged float in the tank or just dirty/cruddy contacts inside the fuel sending unit. The float is easy to replace...doesn't even have to be the stock float for the gauge to work...one of the guys on one of the bump forums posted that he used a wine cork for a float and it still works.
To clean the contacts in the sending unit, remove the five little screws that hold it to the tank...remove the sending unit and float (one piece), bend the three little tabs up on the side of the sending unit, separate the pieces and clean the metal contacts...I cleaned mine with carb cleaner and cue-tips then lightly sanded both with real fine sandpaper. My gauge was pegging out between 3/4's and Full, even when the tank was topped off. Cleaning the contacts solved that problem...entire job took about 45 minutes.
To clean the contacts in the sending unit, remove the five little screws that hold it to the tank...remove the sending unit and float (one piece), bend the three little tabs up on the side of the sending unit, separate the pieces and clean the metal contacts...I cleaned mine with carb cleaner and cue-tips then lightly sanded both with real fine sandpaper. My gauge was pegging out between 3/4's and Full, even when the tank was topped off. Cleaning the contacts solved that problem...entire job took about 45 minutes.
The fuel tank sending unit float is made from two pieces of copper soldered together. Solder breaks down, gas seeps in, float settles to the bottom of the tank.
COAZ-9202-B .. Fuel Sending Unit Float / Available from Ford / MSRP: $14.49.
Applications: ALL 1957/79 Passenger Cars/Trucks; 1961/79 Econolines; 1966/79 Bronco's.
COAZ-9202-B .. Fuel Sending Unit Float / Available from Ford / MSRP: $14.49.
Applications: ALL 1957/79 Passenger Cars/Trucks; 1961/79 Econolines; 1966/79 Bronco's.
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You can test the gauge by pulling the wire from the top of the sending unit on top of the in-cab tank and grounding it...if the gauge is good, it will do a full sweep and peg on Full. If the gauge checks out, you may have a damaged float in the tank or just dirty/cruddy contacts inside the fuel sending unit. The float is easy to replace...doesn't even have to be the stock float for the gauge to work...one of the guys on one of the bump forums posted that he used a wine cork for a float and it still works.
To clean the contacts in the sending unit, remove the five little screws that hold it to the tank...remove the sending unit and float (one piece), bend the three little tabs up on the side of the sending unit, separate the pieces and clean the metal contacts...I cleaned mine with carb cleaner and cue-tips then lightly sanded both with real fine sandpaper. My gauge was pegging out between 3/4's and Full, even when the tank was topped off. Cleaning the contacts solved that problem...entire job took about 45 minutes.
To clean the contacts in the sending unit, remove the five little screws that hold it to the tank...remove the sending unit and float (one piece), bend the three little tabs up on the side of the sending unit, separate the pieces and clean the metal contacts...I cleaned mine with carb cleaner and cue-tips then lightly sanded both with real fine sandpaper. My gauge was pegging out between 3/4's and Full, even when the tank was topped off. Cleaning the contacts solved that problem...entire job took about 45 minutes.

Bill thanks for the info.
drove it loads this weekend got loads of looks & comments, parking it is a pig though, struggle steering & small parking spaces here in UK giving my arms a good work out!
If it's reading 3/4 I would do as stated and disconnect the sending unit, ground the wire and see if it pegs out full. If so the problem is in the sending unit. Either float or the circuit in the sending unit. I would imagine shipping on the entire unit would be only a bit more than just the float. If so I would just order the entire unit and be done with it. You could also rig up anything that floats to replace the float.
The last one i got from the ford dealer they said this was the only one now available. It was a universal adjustment one. Here in San Jose in late 1980's. It looks more like the ones sold on summit. The trouble was the float swing arm was shorter. So it showed full at about 3/4 full when setup on empty so at least, I new when, I was going to run out of gas for sure which was the most important thing. I've just lived with it over the yrs. When I didn't have time to mess with it. Maybe I'll fix it one of these day when needed.
Yours may have one of these short arm type sending units like mind...my 2cents
orich
Yours may have one of these short arm type sending units like mind...my 2cents
orich
D7TZ-9275-G (replaced C1TZ-9275-K) .. In-Cab Fuel Tank Sending Unit / Obsolete
Applications: 1961/66 F100/1100 & 1967/77 F100/750.
If y'all see a sign in the UK that sez: Park Off Pavement, that doesn't refer to the street, it refers to the parkway.
"The UK and the US, two nations separated by a common language." -George Bernard Shaw
pulled the sender unit today after checking that the gauge is fine, dismantled the box & found the fine wire for the contacts are damaged, just ordered a new one from DC. step by step she'll improve.
As long as you are moving forward you will have the truck how you want it before long.
yep, still got a few questions,1, amp meter, 2, vin number,cant decode all of it. will post new thread. then go through body work a couple of bits of welding to do, a repair to the seat, replace cracked drivers window & windscreen rubber, still waiting for my chilton manual to arrive




