GETTING FED UP
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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I bought reman injectors. The thing is I had this problem before I bought the new injectors, wiring harness under both valve covers, and everything else. I even pulled the heads and found out I had one injector cup was cracked, so I had them all replaced.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
That is what makes think about checking compression...
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 1
From: Morehead, Ky.
I am with Jim & Fat Monty. Check the connections where the harness plugs into the valve cover.
You did not mention replacing those harnesses.
You did not mention replacing those harnesses.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
I'm thinking like Greg. Possible low compression in one cylinder. As the engine warms that cylinder's compression will increase as the rings expand and compression ignition of the fuel becomes more efficient and the miss disappears. If it is worn rings you will begin to see more blow-by as the wear increases.
Why that cylinder seems to load up when at idle I can't really explain unless it does this at cold idle and not hot idle.
Hope it's not low compression and something others have suggested because those things would be much easier to deal with.
Edit: Forgot to mention the use of an IR temp gun to spot a cylinder that is misfiring. Aim it along the exhaust manifold. You may be able to find a cylinder with lower exhaust gas temps because of no fuel ignition, for whatever reason. This can certainly help you narrow down whch cylinder has the misfire. In your case do it right after a cold start.
Why that cylinder seems to load up when at idle I can't really explain unless it does this at cold idle and not hot idle.
Hope it's not low compression and something others have suggested because those things would be much easier to deal with.
Edit: Forgot to mention the use of an IR temp gun to spot a cylinder that is misfiring. Aim it along the exhaust manifold. You may be able to find a cylinder with lower exhaust gas temps because of no fuel ignition, for whatever reason. This can certainly help you narrow down whch cylinder has the misfire. In your case do it right after a cold start.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
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From: Pea Ridge, AR
I really think a cold buzz test vs warm, or pulling the valve covers and watching oil discharge would help. If the injectors appeared to be in order I would move on to compression test.
BTW, you asked what an EBPV is, it is a butterfly valve in the exhaust stream that is engaged by an actuator at colder temperatures to aid with quicker warm up, some describe it as a jet engine sound, or hissing or leaf blower. Here is a thread with more information on the EBPV. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...h-exhaust.html
BTW, you asked what an EBPV is, it is a butterfly valve in the exhaust stream that is engaged by an actuator at colder temperatures to aid with quicker warm up, some describe it as a jet engine sound, or hissing or leaf blower. Here is a thread with more information on the EBPV. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...h-exhaust.html
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,364
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From: Gilbert Az.
WHY ARE YOU YELLING!!!!...lol
Jim & fat Monty
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Joined: Oct 2011
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I'm not yelling. Sometimes i just type in capital letters. My wife tells me the same thing. Sometimes I don't feel like hitting the shift key. lol! Back to this truck. I'm going to replace the computer. A mechanic that works on diesels told me he had a truck that acted like that and he replaced the computer and truck runs great.
Everything you guys told me makes sense but the truck doesn't act like any one particular problem.
It doesn't matter if the truck is warm or cold. You start it up and it will run great or it will run like crap. IF it runs like crap, drive it for a while, turn it off, then restart in 2 to 3 minutes and two out three times it will run great.
I thought maybe the map sensor everybody says that's not it. So any way gonna spend a few more bucks and get a computer. Be nice if I could find someone that had a spare one laying around just to try it. So far no success there.
Everything you guys told me makes sense but the truck doesn't act like any one particular problem.
It doesn't matter if the truck is warm or cold. You start it up and it will run great or it will run like crap. IF it runs like crap, drive it for a while, turn it off, then restart in 2 to 3 minutes and two out three times it will run great.
I thought maybe the map sensor everybody says that's not it. So any way gonna spend a few more bucks and get a computer. Be nice if I could find someone that had a spare one laying around just to try it. So far no success there.