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So.....

My wife bought the truck as a welcome home gift from my latest deployment. I was doing some well needed routine maintence on the truck so I could get a month of driving out of it before the snow hits. There was alittle blow by from the crank case vent before I changed the sludge the previous owner called oil. I changed the oil and filter and ran the truck around for about 15 mins to try to clean it up a bit. I got it back in the yard and noticed quite (substantial) a bit more blow by. I fear the rings are worn or the cylinder walls are scarred. On top of it the main seal and valley cover has seepage. I had already accepted the fact that would have to replace the majority of the gaskets but now I will probably have to pull the pistons.

So here is my dilemma....Do I pull the 292 and do a complete tear down and rebuild or do I buy a rebuilt turnkey 302 and save myself the headaches?

maybe something like this: FORD 302 / 320 HP HIGH PERF TURN KEY CRATE ENGINE | eBay

What do you guys think? I am not sure what to do. Help please.
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you can go the turn key route but you'll have to go about getting the adapter kit and figure out the trans. I personally would rebuild the 292 just because it really is a good motor in my experience.

 

To put a 302 in place instead of your y block; there's alot of changes ie. motor mounts on a y block are front and back sides; 302 has side mounts, trans issues etc. I recommend to run some sea foam thru your motor then change that out and once you change your oil again add a oil additive called Hyperlube sold at O'Rielly; I've use that when I had a blow by issue; not a miracle drug or perm-fix; but it work for me.
hopefully others will chime in with a better solution for ya.
Thanks for serving! Go ARMY

 

I guess I would go with the 302 coupled to an AOD transmission. I am looking at a 1978 F250 as a donor for my F100. It either has a 351M or a 460, didn't look long enough at the engine as I was amazed someone drove it to the salvage yard with the only issue being a leaky accelorator pump on the carb. You could find an older 302/AOD combo from a Crown Victoria from the late 80's or early 90's with fuel injection.

Mark

 

The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN

1977/79 F100/350: H = 351M 2V / J = 460 4V / S = 400 2V

Valve cover bolt holes per side: 460 = 7 / 351M/400 = 8

1973/79 as original: The 460 was only available with 2WD and A/T (C6). 1983 was the first year for 4WD & M/T.

 

Thank you for your service. Feel free to join the NY Chapter and jump in the BS session. If you have the time, money and facilities I'd rebuild the 292. If you want to play a little bit...there are a lot of options that the members here have done. I saw a nice 64 on a 79 4WD frame with a 460. Blend in a CV or Grand Marquis front end for a 302 or 4.6. I just bought and pulled a 292 from a 64 F100 that the guy is going to put in a diesel engine. The possibilities are endless. (I don't even want to suggest a Chev transplant).

 

NumberDummy.....you dont by chance have the factory rebuild manual for Y-blocks? I would be willing to give you a deposit for lending it to me. I am thinking of ordering this for help but the reviews aren't stellar.... http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Y-Block-R...pr_product_top

GLR......I will join the NY chapter. The previous owner redid everything but the engine so I dont think i am going to touch any of the body.....except where he installed sanps to the bed for the bed cover by drilling holes in the bed rails......grrrrrrrrrr.

 

The 61 and 64 truck shop manuals have the procedures for rebuilding the Y. Follow the shop manual as some aftermarket Y block books have the timing chain and gears pictured wrong and have cost trashed new engines.

You can get a paper manual on line or on DISC.

Garbz

 

Scout, does your 292 have a road draft tube instead of a PCV valve? My 64 engine has PCV set up. If you have the road draft tube on the side of the engine , a canister, held in place by a center bolt. There is a filter inside, which might be plugged. MAC's Antique Auto Parts one of our sponsors in Lockport, NY Has literature on rebuilding the Y-block as well as reprints of the parts manuals plus more.

 

GLR,

Yes, it has the draft tube. I picked up some seafoam this morning and added that. I ran the engine for a bit and got it to operating temp and then labored the engine a bit. I started to hear rapid tapping on the left side....so I know there is a rocker that needs attention. Ok. As I was under the hood I was trying to localize a whine. I knew it was probably the water pump bearing. After the thermostat opened, I noticed behind the pulley that is was leaking....so much that it was flinging coolant. Great. I guess today pretty much settled it. No more driving. Time for 292 surgery. I will Mac's.

 

1948 thru 1989 Ford Truck (1949/89 Car) Parts Catalogs are available on CD's from hipoparts.com.

The filter is B2TZ-6A631-A but is not listed in Ford truck parts catalogs after 1960.

So, the OP's truck may have it, may not.

The 215 & 223 I-6's also used this same filter.

 

Ditto on Hippoparts. I've got a couple and the CD's are a lot easier to transport than a manual. I usually end up with a lot of paper though.

 

ok .....so I have completed the following:

1. Pulled and cleaned the carb
2. Cleaned and painted the water pump, intake manifold, therostat cover, alt and brackets

The process was going great when I started cleaning the valley cover and saw alot of rust on one side not only on the cover but also the cylinder head. I tried to remove the valley cover with the heads still on but I think it is impossible.

Do I have to remove the cylinder head to get the cover off because of the plate that sticks down in the valley?

 

I am not familar with the 292 engine, perhaps member(s) more knowledgeable can better advise', having said that, it's my understanding replacement parts can be difficult to come by. Since you don't have the history of the engine I would consider a reman/rebuilt, probly cost about same; unless you have the tools and experience to do it yourself. If it came down to rebuilding or replacing I would probly go with replacing it with the 302. Puchased a long block 302 off ebay some 8yrs ago and paid around $1400 delivered with a 7 yr. 70k warranty. You will also need the flywheel for that particular yr. I went with an early 67 289/302. If decide to go this route suggest contact supplier and inquire about disclaimers re: the warranty. Maintaining the trucks originality can be an issue for some, I would look into availability of parts. Suggest posting question in the 'Y Block' forum' whether to rebuild or replace, keeping in mind there may be some bias.

 

I did a 302/AOD swap in my daughters 64, and have had nothing bad to say about it at all. It runs down the highway turning 2500 rpm at 80 with 3.89 gears. With the price of gas it was worth the effort.
If you want the whole run down on the swap hit me up.