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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

need help bad!!!

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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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b3dazzl389
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need help bad!!!

so i just bought an 86 f150 long bed 4x2 with the 4.9 inline six. it ran great yesterday when i bought it and this mornign but while i was driving off of post it kept idling really low so i had to keep my foot on it and play with the clutch then when traffic opened up got going around 35 mph and rpms dropped no matter how much gas i gave it and when id depress the clutch it would die. did this about 3 times but would fire back up. pulled into a gas station messed with the carb a little bit got it idleing good but then 2 minutes later on the road it did the same thing you hit the gas and you hear it flowing almost but no movement and loss of rpms till stall, any help would be greatly appreciated i have to move back into the barracks from off post while i clear out of the army and now the cheap ride that was supposed to do it for me wont work PLZ HELP!!!!
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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oh and its got the single barrel carb too if that helps
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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Anafiel
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When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Start there.

Was the truck driven daily when/before you bought it, or had it been parked for awhile?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:26 AM
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Check your fuel filter, if it's plugged up it causes stalling, loss of RPMs, and generally turdish performance...

You might get one of those clear in-line filters in addition to a factory-style filter. That way you can see what's in your fuel and what might be clogging it up. Might have a bit of trash in the tank.

Last time I replaced mine it was because I tried running fuel out of my front tank that I hadn't touched in like 6 years. The fuel coming out was tan. It plugged my fuel filter solid...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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Welcome to the forum, b3dazzl389! Thanks for your service to our great country!

If it is the fuel filter, it would explain your symptoms as while idling, the engine's need for fuel is much less and the carburetor fuel bowl could be filled, even with a restricted quantity of fuel being delivered, but as you increase the load [speed], the restricted fuel flow might be too little to keep up with the demand and the carburetor would actually run out of fuel.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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i just talked to the guy he said he just replaced the filter and was driving the truck for a while daily i was tinkering with the carb and on the back like that opens the butterfly valve it feels loose and doesnt pop up after i let off the gas as quickly or as much as i think it might supposed too
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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If you are describing the butterfly valve at the top of the carburetor (?), that is the choke. Once the engine is warmed up, the flap should be completely open [straight up and down]. If it staying in the closed or partially closed position, it will cause the engine to run extremely rich and will bog down.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 10:51 AM
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it is staying mostly closed! awesome how would you go about fixing that?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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Okay... the 1st question is why is it not opening? There is a single wire which connects to a black round piece on the outside of the carburetor which contains a bimetallic spring and a heater, inside. The wire gets voltage from the alternator only when the engine is running, so as the heater works, the spring uncoils and opens the choke plate. Going to the same place that the heater is in, there is a 1/4" steel tube which is covered with a sleeve of high temperature fabric [for insulation] which comes from the exhaust manifold, where it gets hot air which then goes to the choke housing and again, uncoils the spring. It sounds like part of this system is not working.

Get back to us after you have looked.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 11:16 AM
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I would also check all of the vacuum hosed and caps for leakage, or cracks. This too could cause the engine to die at idle. Just a thought. Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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alright im about to go check all of that stuff, one thing i noticed when i was warming it up tho is that when i go to open the choke so its vertical the motor starts to die, but when its mostly slash partially closed it just idols
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 11:24 AM
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The choke plate starts out almost completely closed [rich] on a cold engine and is supposed to open as the engine warms up. If the choke plate stayed open [lean] all the time, one would have problems with the engine running until it warmed up. This is made worse at lower temperatures... has your weather just turned cooler?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 11:28 AM
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i just got back from deployment 4 days ago but the weather is pretty nice in the 70's 80's but i dont think it made a drastic change
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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My son returned about 10 days ago from Afghanistan. Glad you made it back safely!
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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If the wire and tube are connected to the choke housing (little black cylinder looking thing) then maybe you need to adjust it. I've had several that people have left the screws loose on and they moved under normal operation. There are 3 Phillips head screws that hold that cylinder in place. Best way I've found to adjust it is to turn the cylinder to the left(drivers side) until the chock closes then back it off until it just barely stays closed. Then start it and let the truck warm up and see if it's opening all the way.
 
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