Floor Pan Rust
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
Floor Pan Rust
So here is the pic...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...1016-1518.html
I am guessing the options are patch or replace the floor pan. Which would be recommended? Estimates on costs?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...1016-1518.html
I am guessing the options are patch or replace the floor pan. Which would be recommended? Estimates on costs?
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
sorry all i can get this thing to do is post the hyperlink to the pic. I don't have a welder so I have got to out source this one; is it likely most body shops can either deal with it or refer to someone who can?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 896
Likes: 55
From: Bothell
You might want to try some local welding shop and you supply them the parts (which are pretty cheap). It's the floor pans after all and it doesn't have to look super pretty, just needs to be less Flintstone style. I had a welding shop do some floor board repair as a kid and they were way less than a body shop wanted. They just put in some hand formed patch panels and they are still holding strong 15 years later.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
Have you looked into why the floors are rusty? My 76 has rusty floors and I was going to replace, but when I started looking to see why I was getting water in the floor, I fond that the cowl abve the firewall was rusted though. The whole cowl is shot, so I have a new rust free cab going on this winter.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
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From: Northern California
The windshield seal was so dry rotted you could see through it in several places. The old windshield literally fell out when I got it replaced. The floor insulation was soaked which probably didn't help.
There is no other rust than a bit on the surface of the passenger side; figure I will clean all this up, paint and apply some undercoating as an added measure..
Does having the effected area over the cab mount complicate the repair?
There is no other rust than a bit on the surface of the passenger side; figure I will clean all this up, paint and apply some undercoating as an added measure..
Does having the effected area over the cab mount complicate the repair?
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
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Likes: 138
From: Northern California
What I meant by complicate is will they have to reinforce the repair for structural integrity or is it a straight forward patch they can weld in place... The mount itself is in good shape.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 896
Likes: 55
From: Bothell
That would depend on how rusted out the area around your patch panel is. The floor panel is spot welded to the cab mount under it along the cab mount flange. Therefore the floor panel is a structural member as far as the cab mount is concerned. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o><o
></o>I would think that the repair shop would drill holes in the new floor pan along the cab mount surface and use those to weld the floor to the cab mount... this is how I did mine and I don't notice any difference in structural integrity.<o
></o>
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
Thanks for the feedback. Just trying to figure out what I can/should do by myself... I am more than capable of doing the metal forming and such myself but have no welding capabilities.
Does it sound reasonable to install such a patch with rivets and take it to a shop to simply perform a few quick welds? I figure this might be the best way to do it right but being considerate of the costs and time away from my truck; prefer to keep this sucker on the road... Down only for short periods of time if at all possible.
Does it sound reasonable to install such a patch with rivets and take it to a shop to simply perform a few quick welds? I figure this might be the best way to do it right but being considerate of the costs and time away from my truck; prefer to keep this sucker on the road... Down only for short periods of time if at all possible.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
Yes, you can tack the new metal down with a couple of rivets and then take to someone to weld. Or fine someone that can do it and ask them how they would want it preped.
Now that you have the windshield replaced, have you checked for other leaks in the cab?
Now that you have the windshield replaced, have you checked for other leaks in the cab?
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
My seals in and around the doors are gone as well so I will be replacing asap. Gonna redo the back window as well but its not as bad. Having inspected both sides of the firewall, I haven't noticed any other holes and/or rust.
Speaking of seals; any suggestions as to where to buy or not buy? Don't want to buy something that's going to dryrot in a year.
Speaking of seals; any suggestions as to where to buy or not buy? Don't want to buy something that's going to dryrot in a year.
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