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It's fine. I went through the whole fuel system and replaced all the hoses and installed a new filter. No crud in the tank. Fuel pickup looks good. I appreciate the help.
Missing and stumbling can be signs of running rich, and edelbrock carbs are prone to running pig-rich on a Ford with the mechanical fuel pump. The carb does not like more than 5.5-6 PSI fuel supply, while the pump tends to output 7-8 PSI. This causes it to have fuel "leak" past the needle/seat assemblies, therefore run overly rich.
When did the bank firing start? Is it thru the carb or out the ex? I would also double check the plug wires and make sure they are in order.
The backfiring has not happened, since I replaced the timing chain. The plug wires are in order.
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Missing and stumbling can be signs of running rich, and edelbrock carbs are prone to running pig-rich on a Ford with the mechanical fuel pump. The carb does not like more than 5.5-6 PSI fuel supply, while the pump tends to output 7-8 PSI. This causes it to have fuel "leak" past the needle/seat assemblies, therefore run overly rich.
I did put a temporary in-line gauge between the carb and the pump and got a steady 5.5 psi with the mechanical pump. Not very scientific, so it is possible that the pressure is not accurate. I did install the carb right out of the box. I suspect the cylinder heads may be the problem, since the symptoms have been somewhat consistent prior and subsequent to any modifications.
The dizzy is a reman with Pertronix Ignitor III and flamethrower coil. Vacuum advance is working. The push rods looked okay, when I last had it apart, but that was before the timing chain change. A leakdown test next?
It could be a flat lobe on the cam ??/ or lifter collapsed ??/
I have done a number of things to the engine, since the initial post. Replaced timing chain with double roller. New glasspacks (blew out old muffler because of bad timing chain). Replaced old 2bbl intake with Performer RPM and Performer 600 cfm carb. Blocked off exhaust crossovers at head. Used right stuff to set intake manifold. No oil or vacuum leaks that I can find. Set timing @ 12 deg with total advance around 38 deg. Truck ran great initially, then started missing and stumbling while driving. Finally got around to a compression test. #1 - 135, #2 - 130, #3 - 125, #4 - 138, #5 - 128, #6 - 140, #7 - 130, #8 - 130. Any suggestions before I start tearing things apart again? Thanks.
Kurt
Try running a higher octane of gas. Does your motor have the harden valve seats ?
Was your comp test wet or dry? doing a wet will tell if weak rings or burnt valve seats..
Also to test for bent push rod is roll them on a flat surface, Replace if bent more then 0.20th.
Try running a higher octane of gas. Does your motor have the harden valve seats ?
Was your comp test wet or dry? doing a wet will tell if weak rings or burnt valve seats..
Also to test for bent push rod is roll them on a flat surface, Replace if bent more then 0.20th.
Orich
I have been running 91 octane. I know that the engine has been rebuilt, but I don't know if the heads have hardened seats. The comp test was dry. The first stroke of the comp test was anywhere from 80-90 psi on all the cylinders. I have followed the unload and pre-load procedures when removing the valve train, but I haven't checked for valve tip to rocker clearance or for bent push rods. Should I do a wet test and check for bent push rods before pulling the heads? Thanks.
If it's starting to cough & spite, backfire out the carb a little while you put your foot into like when passing or going up a grade, then it recovers when you let up on the gas pedal. Plus having low compression is a pretty good sign of valve troubles.
As long as your timing & points or other is set right like Pertronix unit is good plus getting enough voltage to the dizzy all engine grounds are good.
Then this leads to burnt valves.
But it should not have caused a no start issues like when you said it would not restart.
It sound like the Pertronix unit failed.
I ran the Pertronix lll unit fo a while and had no problems with it.
Send it back for testing & repair..
A oil wet test seals the rings and will bump up the comp. about 10 psi and any lost of compression over this is the valves not sealing from your regular engine specs.
Push rods can be turned while their still installed by bumping the engine over a little at a time with the coil wire out. And valve cover off right. Most of the time if bent out of specs to much the lifter will stop turning the start wiping the lobe out and you'll hear it clicking or tapping as there will be a lot more valve lash. Can't miss it.
orich
It's been awhile..... Good thing the truck isn't my daily driver. Removed intake, valvetrain and heads. The lifters, hydraulic, had faint visible wear lines, but nothing that I could feel. The cam, viewed through the lifter bores, looked good too. The engine had no sludge. The pistons are 30 over, so I may be at the limit of the block.
The heads are another matter. The intake valve stems had carbon deposits on the stems. Is this normal? I filled the combustion chambers with gasoline to see what leaks. The passenger side - no leaks. The driver's side - #5 & 6 intake valves leaked some, and the #7 exhaust valve leaked pretty good. I don't know if this is an accurate test, and it doesn't seem to jive with the compression test. The heads are C4AE-6090G.
So, I am still in the diagnostic phase and open to suggestions. Thanks.
Bad exh. seats unleaded gas burns then out. you'll need harden seats install.
Mostly valve guilds to complete rebuilt of heads.
You have early heads like 64 tall port runners that don't match a 360 intake manifold or a even a edelbrock intake manifold.
A .030 not big deal with 352/360/390 BLOCKS most will go .060
Loose valve guilds can extra carbon up the valve stems.
Valve closes to the heat riser cross over ports burn the seat first
Orich
The leaking exhaust valve is next to the exhaust crossover. I have the Performer RPM intake manifold, so I blocked off the crossovers. You are also right about the ports; although, they seemed to seal well.
Are these heads worth the work that you mentioned? I don't see any visible cracks in the combustion chambers. Thanks Orich.
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