Is that the 2.5" receiver?

 

Here is the damage:



They have straightened the fender, replaced the bumper and bumper runner with an aftermarket item, "replaced" the tailgate and hitch.

I suspect they may have replaced the tailgate skin only - is that done or is it normal to put on a new tailgate?

The bumper was shifted to the left, so I guess the procedure is to straighten the bumper brackets.

Besides measuring the aftermarket bumper thickness, what else should I check for on final inspection?

 

You know, sometimes accident damage amazes me. Somehow your bumper and tailgate were dented, but the plastic piece on the bumper looks untouched.

 

It has some gouges in it. A stationary 2010 Ford Escape did this with his brakes locked, a 2001 Expedition pushed him into and under me, both cars are totaled, another pickup glanced off the Expedition with minor damage. The driver of the Expedition was ticketed for failing to maintain vehicle speed, he was an uninsured 21-yr old who does not speak English. A sizable percentage of drivers in Houston are uninsured so I need to carry uninsured motorists coverage. etc., etc.

Anyway, what else should I be checking for when the repair shop says they are done and want me to sign off on it?

 

I got to ask CornFlakes do you have a gasser or a diesel? I haven't seen an answer to that in any of the replies.

As for checking repairs what I did when I rear ended a Ranger and they replaced the front bumper I grabbed the front bumper shook it hard and looked to see if it was level in all respects.

Sorry I can't offer more/better advice than that.

 

Gasser with, according to my window sticker, a 12.5K hitch. Thanks for the advice.

Here's the Escape that rear ended me, nothing he could do about it.

 

Stick to your guns man! Don't let 'em take advantage of you if you're actually using that hitch. Just like a carseat, a hitch is something that really should NOT be looked at and if they deem it to be replaced, make sure it's replaced of like or greater value. Don't settle for something else that YOU wouldn't put on your truck voluntarily!

I got t-boned (ish) by a drunk driver, who switched drivers, ran from the scene, had friends come up and harass me at the scene of hte accident and they both ended up arrested.

With that said, I dealt iwth my insurance because THEIR insurance wanted to replace my front door SKIN, BONDO my rear door, and pull the back of the cab out. The CRUMPLE zones on both doors were crumpled up and it would have been a mess to have them come out a thousand times to authorize what should have been authorized in the first place.





Came out nicely after all said and done with only a few tape lines..

-rockstate

 

Thanks, yes I use the hitch, I'm trying to clean out the barn and sell some old cars on eBay and need the pickup to move them around - but will regret getting it back if it's not like it was. What should I be checking for when the repair shop wants me to sign off on it?

 

Ya know, I just checked for lack of swirl marks, no orange peel, and just general likability of hte repairs. I have a few taplines (didn't know to check for those), and make sure all your trim is on correctly. Look for gaps on the tailgate (or front end if you hit someone up front), etc. I also checked for paint matching. The match is correct, but the clear is pretty shiny. Now that it's been out of the body shop for a few months, it's hard to tell. Also, if you REALLY want, you can check for paint thickness. It is like 7 mils from factory??? That might be wrong...

I'm **** retentive, but remember that repairs won't always be 100% of factory, which it sounds like you've come to terms with.

I think my truck is about 90% to what it was on a full **** retentive scale.

 

Cool! Thanks! I think I can scrounge up a paint thickness gauge. It will also show where they used filler. Excellent idea!

 

I probably would have repaired it a little different. I had a chance to buy 2 new take off F250 boxes with gates and rear bumpers (1 chrome and 1 painted) in white for $1200 each. I would have done that, and sold the damaged box and kept the difference.

 

That would be a great plan if I didn't have collision insurance and an uninsured motorists deductible of $250.00.

 

Do you have pictures of the new rear bumper? I would not accept anything less then stock replacement because chances are the after market bumper will look like crap, it will be the cheapest junk they could find.

 

No, I was there to verify no damage to the box before they re-installed the liner, but will have to take my camera next time (or remember to use my cell-phone camera). Aesthetics of the rear bumper is subjective. The original design is not very beautiful to begin with.

I will have to make sure the metal thickness as measured with a micrometer or spherical anvil micrometer is no less than the original, the chrome plate is smooth, not defective, no flaking or haze and the nickel is not exposed, especially around the bumper edges, the top runner is black, as thick as the original and fits onto the bumper correctly, I can use it as a step, the bumper blends into the body panels, that it is straight, the license plate lights are there and serviceable, I can remove the spare through the crank hole and the license plate is or can be properly affixed. Am I missing anything here?

 

Is that a dent or crease above the drivers rear wheel? That box side should have been replaced. If it is just fixed there is filler in that box side now for sure!

A 2010, those should all be new parts. New box side, new tailgate, new bumper.