The doors on my 2008 are shaking loose on washboard roads and are generally hard to close so that they'll stay firmly closed.

Can they be adjusted to close tighter?
Do the little hoops on the top and bottom get adjusted?
Is the Torx head a #35? (#30 and 40 don't work and I cant find a #35)

Please help.

 

That's funny, I just noticed that on my new(to me) '08. The primary side door has to be slammed hard to latch at the top, and it always comes unlatched at the top during driving. I have also noticed that my '08 doesn't feel as solid as my '04 with regard to doors fitting/latching/closing properly and interior fit and finish.

 

I could be wrong here, but as I wrench for a living (motorcycles), I've never seen a T35. T30 Plus or T40, but no T35 that I know of. I would find the right size for you, but it's not likely I'll drive the van to work (where the tools are) for a week or two...

 

I agree there isn't a T35 Torx bit, internal or external but the quality of the bits you're using greatly affect how they fit. I have a cheap set of Lisle bits that are somewhat "soft" as compared to a USA-made premium set of Cornwell hardened bits---totally different fit especially in the bolts for door latches and strikes.

You're heading in the right direction to adjust the door latching point but its unusual for them to work loose----of course anything is possible. If they're shaking loose you need to first make sure they're latching securely once they're closed. Close the left (or "rear") door first, tug on it several times to make sure its latching properly. Make sure both latches are holding, top and bottom too. Close the right side (or "front") and from the inside make sure its latched securely. There is a fine line between too little and too much so adjust your strikes (hoops) just a little each time.

Its possible but not likely the front or right side inner latches aren't holding however unless you're opening the doors 100's of times a day this would be unusual for your model year.

Once you have them adjusted to suit you lubricate the latches with something like a spray lithium grease----it extends their life quite a bit.

HTH

 

I've investigated a little further and it looks as though the bottom latch on the left door is the problem. When I close the door firmly and check it before closing the right one, I always check at the top. But now I realize the even if the top is tight, the bottom has a lot of slack. I didn't measure it but wouldn't ve surprised if it was a 1/4"!

 

That's a great start Silver----I thought it would be something that relatively simple to see and fix. Make sure all your door hinge bolts are tight too, both body side and attached to the door itself. I've seen them work loose as well.

 

Mine are super tight, but has a $1500 handicap power door setup on them tho. LoL

 

Maples is that one of those systems that starts the chair lift and opens the doors at the same time?

My '00 E250 was handicap accessible but I think one of the more simple versions as there were no modifactions made to the side or rear doors.

 

Separate motors in the doors with braces on the jam that the rods run from the doors hook to, just a power window motor in each door. The older lifts had motors on them that attached to the doors to operate them, I'll be looking for something to do the rear doors on my 73, I'm having my Ricon S2000 put on the rear.

 

Well, I just came in from trying to fix the problem and here is what I've found. As I mentioned earlier, the primary door had about a 1/4" play at the bottom, when tightly shut, and both doors were actually coming loose on a recent washboard road adventure.

The bottom hoop thing (Door Catch?) on the door frame is not adjustable. It is a taper head bolt and it self centers as it tightens. It turns out that it is a Torx T-40.

The top one I did not try, since the bottom was a no go. FYI, it is a Torx T-27.

The door bottom latch on the primary door does have some adjustability, but it isn't much (also a Torx T-27)

I ended up adjusting the door itself, by loosening both bolts on the bottom hinge and the lower bolt on the top hinge (10mm bolt head). I moved the bottom inward to the point where the 1/4" play is now gone and a piece of paper will still slide through the weather seal with slight friction.

I lubed the latches with 3 in 1 oil ( what I had on hand) and it seems that the latches react quicker now, eliminating the need to slam the door.

Time will tell if any of this will work.

 

Are you sure?

FORD refers to "The bottom hoop thing" as a "striker...striker assembly... latch striker...wire form striker" in an earlier Service Manual in a paragraph entitled: "Latch Striker Adjustment". Apparently all these FORD "hoop" strikers were adjustable on Econoline. They have threaded plates (loose or captive?) inside the door frame & oversize holes in the frame allow fore & aft adjustment when the Torx screws are loosened.

Don't know if FORD changed the design by '98. They sure look the same.

Suggest trying a long soak in your fav penetrating oil & 1 of those hammer impact tools fitted w/T-40 & T-20 bits. For obvious reasons you don't want to break these screws off in the backing plate.

 

Club Wagon, I never thought to look into the whole striker plate moving with the hidden plate. I saw the tappered hole and screw head after removing one screw and reached my conclusion.

After a short drive, I conclude that the play at the bottom of the primary door is the problem, now I'm just wondering if I went about fixing it the right way.

 

Nope, my 99 has the same design, mine were removed for the power door setup, you can see the inner piece it secures to, made to adjust.

 

Obviously. Guess FORD's terms "striker...striker assembly...latch striker...wire form striker" weren't sufficient?

I'm inclined to conclude "fixing it the right way" might best begin w/FORD Service Manual recommendations found under: "Latch Striker Adjustment".

FORD instructions include:

"CAUTION: Do not cover up poor door alignment with a latch striker adjustment."

And:

"1. Check that the door fit is adjusted correctly. Do not use striker to adjust for door sag; instead adjust door hinge settings as outlined" in another section.

FORD also describes shimming specific latch strikers.

 

Mr Silver when this thread began I didn't realize you weren't yet famililar with door latches, strikes and how they might be attached or secured in place----my apologies for that over sight. I can tell you're seeking answers to your questions in a forum where one typically can find helpful and polite answers--after all I believe that's the intent of these forums!

At any rate in order to avoid feeding snarky, rude and dismissive forum trolls if I can be of any help please PM me-----perhaps a phone call would help guide you through this in a little easier fashion.