Well, I got some codes for circut to injectors 12345678

Resoldered FICM, was good for a day, now its happening again, and I feel like there is a loss in power....

I followed the steps in repairing it....should I send it out and have it done or try to do it again?


I just re flowed the solder

 

so Layla on the Rag Again She is pretty cold hearted LOL

That sucks Tyler sorrey to hear that

 

Haha, Yepp, I think she's on it more than any girl I ever known or dated.

I found a FICM for 250$ ready to go from a good friend. I will test mine tomorrow at work and see what numbers I get...if they are low, ill just replace it

 

Tyler get yours fixed you will notice a diff in how it runs , with my new injector , FICM and ICP my sh-t feels stronger than ever.

 

Did you get ahold of all the little electronics and give them a tug? Sometimes the little square black fellows come off very easily and need resoldered. I don't think you can just reflow those but I don't solder well and have NO experience with electronics.

 

Did you just re-flow the points or add new solder? You have to be extremely careful with the rosin. If you got some mixed into the re-flow/new batch it would cause more resistance and subsequently more heat i.e. quick meltdown.

If that's the case you might need to clean off the old solder and add new solder (silver is awesome if you can do it)

Just a thought

 

When rosin core solder melts, the rosin (or Flux) helps to remove contaminants in the soldered joint. It floats on top of the molten solder and does not get trapped inside of it. Isopropyl Alcohol or TTI-735 Isopropyl Technical Alcohol will remove the residue and contaminants from the surface of the solder joint leaving a smooth shiny surface.

The ideal solder to be using on this is 63/37 Rosin Core RMA (Rosin Mildly Activated) solder. Solders with RA or A as indicators for thier rosins indicate the Rosin is Activated. This means it is very corrosive in the right environment if left on the joint. It will eat into the base metal of the circuit and destroy the board.

Micro-Miniature Repair (Circuit Board Repair) was one of my forte's while I served in the Navy. I am very familiar with Tin/Lead, No Lead, Liquid Solder, Silver Solder, Surface Mount Technology, plating etc.. I am not going to bore you with the gory details.

63/37 Rosin Core solder provides a clean reliable electrical and mechanical bond. Applied correctly it will outlast the circuit itself.

Eric

 

Wouldn't that assume a quality solder/enough heat? My firm uses a wave solder machine but there are obviously a few things that must be done by hand and I hear about problems with getting the rosin intermixed with the solder increasing the resistance and failing the circuit. I don't solder anything, so it's all academic on my side but could you envision a scenario where low heat and/or bad technique could lead to the incorporation of rosin into a soldered point? You did say 'Applied correctly' so obviously there's a wrong way.

 

Your right, there is a wrong way! And it isn't hard to do. Wave soldering applies solder to an etched board under controlled heat and length of exposure.

Pin point soldering such at with a soldering iron or hot air jet applies heat to a very finite area. 63/37 rosin core has a very short plastic state. That being the abbreviated amount of time it takes to turn it from a solid to a liquid in comparison to other tin, lead, silver ratios.

It is extremely easy to overheat the solder and cause a "cold" solder joint. This joint appears crystallized and greyish in appearance. It is mechanically weak and a poor conductor.

I normally use a heat setting of 610 degrees F and the amount of time spent on a solder joint is 3-5 seconds.

Poor solder joints can be fixed by hand. If the solder is not in bad shape apply liquid flux (RMA only) to the joint. Clean the soldering iron with a damp sponge, removing any old solder and exposing a shiny tip.

Touch a very small amount of solder to the iron to make a heat bridge and touch it to the joint coated with flux. Wait for the solder to go molten and feed new solder into the joint at the point where the iron and solder meet. Remove the iron immediately after you have added new solder. Clean the new solder fillet with alcohol and a soft cloth or cotton swab.

If too much heat is applied to long the solder will break down. The circuit board can delaminate, etched solder fund can be lifted and components that are heat sensitive damaged. It takes practice but I believe most any one can do it once You know what to look for and what to avoid.

Eric

 

That's RUNS not "fund"!!!! Stoopid phone! Sheesh!

 

Well I took the FICM apart again yesterday, cleaned all the solder points, this morning my injector buzz was weak as hell....but after the truck warms up its stronger than ever....

I got the new one coming wedensday....

After i cleaned all the solder points it was all good until I gave it a WOT run, then I got 8 injector codes, and the P0611 code.

Done messing with it....If anyone wants my old one, let me know. Free.

 

I want it. PM me

 

Eric, that's great info thanks!

 

Great lesson, Eric... Reps sent (for the little they're worth from me).

 

It is my pleasure to pass along the info. And thank you!

I would suggest that if any of you are not particularly familiar with soldering, to check out some of these videos. They visually describe what I am talking about.

Soldering (Basic to Advance) - Surface Mount, Through-Hole, Wires & Terminals - Video

This video is an advertisement for a soldering school. Aside from the initial introduction, several quick examples of soldering and soldering to different devices is shown.

If you search Discrete Component Soldering you'll find many informative videos.

Nothing better than slinging molten metal! (Soldering!)

Eric