I have a 94 Ford Ranger, 4 cylinder, that isn't starting. I bought a new battery a few days ago and it ran, but now it won't start. When I turn the key it clicks and the dome light comes on but wont start..does this sound like the alternator. Also, is it fairly easy to replace the alternator myself?

 

Welcome to FTE!!

It does sounds like it could be bad and it is easy to change. Before you do it recharge the battery and see if the voltage at the battery is higher running and above 13v, if it is I don't think it is the alt.

 

I think that it was running around 12 or 13v. Thanks for the info!

 

You need to be sure, the difference between 12V and 13V is
it not charging, or charging.....

 

SO, if it running at 12v, then it is something different than the alternator? Someone suggested taking it to Autozone, that they could test the voltage? If its not the alternator, any other idea what could be the problem with a new battery?

 

No, if the alternator is ok, then the voltage should be higher
than 12V. Yes, Autozone, or Advance Auto will test your
alternator / battery for free!!!

I hope this helps!!!!

 

Well, when it stopped starting, I thought it was the battery, because it was old, so I bought a new one. The truck ran ok for a few days at around 12-13v (as far as I could tell) then it stopped running, so someone said it was probably the alternator, but thanks again for all the info.

 

I'd just make SURE it's NOT the battery before you get into replacing the alternator. Just because it's new doesn't mean it isn't bad. May be fine, but I would just make sure.
My girlfriend's stepdad has a 95 Toyota Tacoma, and it wouldn't start one day. He said two of his friends with Toyotas wouldn't start recently, and that the starter solenoid was bad, and sounded the same. He said he charged the battery, and it still wouldn't start. Anyway, I went over and pulled his starter out for him, and then he took it to a repair shop. They put it on a tester and it fired right up. So I put it back in the truck and he tried starting it, still wouldn't. I told him we should jump the battery and see if that works, even though he <b>said</b> he charged it. Of course, it started right up. Huge waste of time because he didn't test the battery after he charged it.
Like Ken said, you need to test it.

Brian J Wilson

 

As Bob Ayers indicated, you must know EXACTLY what your voltage is at any given time. If you hook up the volt meter to the battery with the engine running, it should be well over 13 volts. As you turn on electrical accessories one by one, the voltage should drop VERY LITTLE, if at all. After you have ALL your electrical accessories on (headlights on HIGH BEAM), the voltage should still be AT LEAST ABOVE 12.6 . It should NEVER drop below 12.6 for ANY reason (unless engine stalls). If it is only SLIGHTLY above 12.6, slowly rev the engine up. Voltage should increase, but, it should increase very early, while revs are still pretty low. If you have to get the revs up pretty high just to get above 13v, then it's not working right. And, the voltage drop at idle should only occur if the idle speed is pretty low. If you have an EXTERNAL voltage regulator, I would replace it FIRST, then check the system again. They are cheap & easy to replace. Only THEN, if the voltage is still unacceptably low, I would replace the entire alternator. Use a good reliable volt meter (I prefer a digital Beckman, or similar). The other cheap easy thing to cover is to make sure ALL CONNECTIONS are clean, & in good condition (no corrosion, no loose connections, on the alternator, voltage regulator if external, grounds, etc).