Died and will not start - need help
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
Likes: 18
From: Livoina,La
I'll try the ether if I have to. I do have some on hand, but I'll try some other ideas first.
craftsmangary, I don't know how to do most of what you suggest. I just don't have the experience yet. The check engine light is not on, nor was it on. It does work though. I have an obdII scan tool, but I don't think that connects to this truck.
oldbird1965, what is an IPR ?
What do you guys think about the cam sensor?
Thanks, Keith
craftsmangary, I don't know how to do most of what you suggest. I just don't have the experience yet. The check engine light is not on, nor was it on. It does work though. I have an obdII scan tool, but I don't think that connects to this truck.
oldbird1965, what is an IPR ?
What do you guys think about the cam sensor?
Thanks, Keith
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
IDM (Injection Drive module)
I had a problem pretty close to this. I started my truck in the morning and went in to grab a few things, I came outside just as the truck stalled. It cranked strong, had fuel at the bowl and everything else I could check was good. I took it to a mechanic and he found out my IDM (Injection Drive module)was faulty. I had it replaced with a used one from the auto wrecker ($750 used vs. +/-$1200 new) and the problem was fixed.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
WOW, 750 used!?!?!?!?! Welcome to fte Chason, but you got screwed. You can buy remanned idm's for 125 bucks and up. New aren't close to 1200.
To the op, if you get a cam sensor, get one from ford or ih, parts store ones aren't very reliable. Only 25 bucks or so.
To the op, if you get a cam sensor, get one from ford or ih, parts store ones aren't very reliable. Only 25 bucks or so.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
Likes: 18
From: Livoina,La
I had a problem pretty close to this. I started my truck in the morning and went in to grab a few things, I came outside just as the truck stalled. It cranked strong, had fuel at the bowl and everything else I could check was good. I took it to a mechanic and he found out my IDM (Injection Drive module)was faulty. I had it replaced with a used one from the auto wrecker ($750 used vs. +/-$1200 new) and the problem was fixed.
Wow does it still hurt. Lol Yea used ones go fo 50-100 bucks
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I should have mentioned I live in Canada. The price at the Ford dealership was $1250 new. My 96 ford is my work truck so I did not have time to shop around too much but $750 seemed a lot better than the $1250 price Ford wanted.
I love this site and am thankful to all the work people put in to it, so far the site has helped me with 3 different problems.
Chason
I love this site and am thankful to all the work people put in to it, so far the site has helped me with 3 different problems.
Chason
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Hi Guys,
I could still use some help with this ...
It had been probably a week or more since I had filled the tanks with fuel before this happened.
I have now replaced the cam sensor and that did not make any change.
I have also checked the fuel pressure at the valve with a tire gage. It reads very low (5-10psi) while cranking strong. I'd guess that this is an obvious problem. What should I check next? I think I've checked all fuses and I've swapped relays around, so not sure what to do next.
Thanks for all your help guys.
Keith
I could still use some help with this ...
It had been probably a week or more since I had filled the tanks with fuel before this happened.
I have now replaced the cam sensor and that did not make any change.
I have also checked the fuel pressure at the valve with a tire gage. It reads very low (5-10psi) while cranking strong. I'd guess that this is an obvious problem. What should I check next? I think I've checked all fuses and I've swapped relays around, so not sure what to do next.
Thanks for all your help guys.
Keith
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
if it has a 96 engine in it then it is a 7.3 DI direct injection,then like some one said earlier, DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID,it will kill the glow plugs,crack the rings,and could blow up in the air filter box and hurt you or some one else,but check the IDM,it should be mounted on the drivers side fender by the hood hinge, the shop will say they don't go bad but they do,they have this really hard sealing glue stuff to keep it air tight but when you remove it,it will have water in it,it runs off the hood and gets in it some how,I went through all of this one time and now if you changed the cam sensor in the front of the motor and that didn't help,then you should check the IDM,the factory isn't cheap but after market or a rebuilt is around $130.00.
New User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
the new cam sensor ford sells is kinda grey blue and they don't go bad,this is what ford told me,the black one's do go bad but it that don't do it I would check the IDM,its on the fender on the drivers side but the hood hinge,you'll find that there's more the likliey water in it,
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Okay Guys, thanks for your help so far. Still not running and I just got back to looking at it this morning.
The spring behind the FPR plug is good.
I took the fuel filter and cap off and removed most of the fuel. With that cap off and someone cranking the engine, I get air bubbles into that canister. All the fuel lines look pretty new and not rusted, though I did not trace every inch of line.
So I took off the short fuel hose from the lift pump to the canister. When the engine cranks, it does deliver fuel, but in a pulsating manor. I'm wondering if it is pushing fuel and then sucking it back? Should it be a steady stream of fuel? I should say though that by this time the cranking power of the batteries were weak.
It is charging now. But can you advise if you think the lift pump is faulty? Hole in the fuel lines somewhere? Other?
Thanks again, Keith
The spring behind the FPR plug is good.
I took the fuel filter and cap off and removed most of the fuel. With that cap off and someone cranking the engine, I get air bubbles into that canister. All the fuel lines look pretty new and not rusted, though I did not trace every inch of line.
So I took off the short fuel hose from the lift pump to the canister. When the engine cranks, it does deliver fuel, but in a pulsating manor. I'm wondering if it is pushing fuel and then sucking it back? Should it be a steady stream of fuel? I should say though that by this time the cranking power of the batteries were weak.
It is charging now. But can you advise if you think the lift pump is faulty? Hole in the fuel lines somewhere? Other?
Thanks again, Keith
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Okay Guys,
I put a new fuel lift pump in and everything is back together. With the fuel filter out and someone cranking, there are now no air bubbles and it fills with fuel quickly. With the filter back in, I have lots of pressure at the shreader valve.
But still it does not start. I've probably cranked for a total of 30 seconds. Do I need to bleed the full system? Do I need to keep cranking? This makes me nervous, but I think we're almost there.
Thanks, Keith
I put a new fuel lift pump in and everything is back together. With the fuel filter out and someone cranking, there are now no air bubbles and it fills with fuel quickly. With the filter back in, I have lots of pressure at the shreader valve.
But still it does not start. I've probably cranked for a total of 30 seconds. Do I need to bleed the full system? Do I need to keep cranking? This makes me nervous, but I think we're almost there.
Thanks, Keith