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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 02:15 PM
  #16  
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Exactly..or pull the coil wire. New vehicles don't have the plug on the TC.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #17  
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So assuming I can get this for 4k and everything is in pretty decent shape. Think I should give it a go? Also how do I get ATF back into the torque converter? Will it just cycle back in when I pour fluid down the check tube?

I just really don't want this thing to be a money pit.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #18  
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Yep. Pour a few quarts in. Run it for a minute. Pour more in...

To try to get new performance, with success, I have replaced all the sensors, timing chain set, wires plugs, coil, dist. ICM, PCM etc.. etc. over 6-7 years and all of it does not add up to two car payments. Best vehicle ever. Nothing to worry about.

Someone called my wife wanting to buy my Bronco. She replied "You don't have enough money" they said "What?" she repeated it and they hung up.

Nuff said...
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 06:08 PM
  #19  
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What you really need for your E4OD is a Transgo shift kit as it replaces alot of the junk valves in the tranny plus adds a new plate that makes the tranny shift like it should have. I have a Transgo on my '96 and it has always shifted great. I have 62k on mine and bought it from the 2nd owner at 45,xxx miles. The 90's version of the Bronco are all really nice to work on and parts from most F-150's are easily found and very reasonable in price. Bronco's are very cool, no doubt. BTW, I paid $8,000 for mine 5 years ago, so if it is in great shape and well taken care of, $4-5 isn't a bad price. Also, the other problem with those years was the bad cruize control sensor that the dealer will replace. Good luck!!

Pap
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 08:20 PM
  #20  
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Well basically my mechanical skills are pretty limited (Not because I don't know how) but because I really don't have the right equipment... and time for that matter. I got to school full time and work nearly full time. They won't let me be full time or else they have to give me benefits. So any work done to the tranny would be done by someone else. And living in New York... where labor is nearly 125 dollars an hour sucks.

I really wanna know how reliable this thing truly is. Will a stock E40d tranny drivin by an old man last me as long as I treat it right?

Are there any tell tail signs right away of a "get the hell away from this tranny" that I could try? Because if the tranny goes I would have to come up with damn near 3000 bucks to get it fixed.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 08:47 PM
  #21  
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If there is massive fluid leaking from the pan, then thats a good sign to run. Seriously tho, as mentioned the E4OD is super picky, but when you have everything else running right, it'll be great.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 10:37 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
If there is massive fluid leaking from the pan, then thats a good sign to run. Seriously tho, as mentioned the E4OD is super picky, but when you have everything else running right, it'll be great.
Yeah thats the problem though hahaha. Making everything else run right. Also it's the push button 4x4 with auto locking hubs but the man just replaced them to locking hubs. I herd this is pretty common on these years with the auto locking hubs. Should be nothing to fret over right?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 03:36 AM
  #23  
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I tell everyone they'll hate the E4OD.. it's just a screwy transmission. It's tough to get fluid levels right, I spent a year trying to get my pan to seal before replacing with a highend B&M, then found out I had a bunch of stripped holes in the tranny (yay, aluminum), MLPS keeps acting up and the stupid aftermarket (shoudla bought motorcraft) lasts only about 3 months before I have to replace it.. it also kicks from 2-3 pretty rough after warmed up, no clue why... oh and uh, I feel like it's really, really picky about fluid types as wel, from one brand to the next will completely change the way my particular transmission shifts.

It's just one of those things, "ugh, my transmission again".. but it was neglected, abused, run low, run high, 220k miles as far as I know, original 1990 which was the first and worst year for this thing and.. well, it still keeps me moving and hasnt completely failed, knock-on-wood.

It's sort of the same way with the Bronco itself though.. they never, ever seem to run 100%, but they always run, if that makes any sense? I'm *always* replacing parts on this thing, however I don't think any have failed so badly that the Bronco wouldn't start and drive me to where I needed to be. Sure, high idle, low power, noisy part, smelly part, blah, problems like this would show up, but the Bronco would always start and go, regardless of weather.
Like the first thing I broke, a CV joint.. didn't know what I was doing, drove it 500 miles that way before I realized it was really broken, probably would have gone 10,000 miles without blowing the driveshaft. TPS was broken for 1000 miles before I replaced it, intake leak, broken EGR valve, it didn't matter, it never stopped working completely.

I am SUPER STRICT on how my vehicle runs. I will NOT drive it at all when the smallest thing goes wrong, which means the Bronco is under the wrench quite a bit. However, I know for a fact if i hadn't replaced a single thing since I bought it, it would be noisy, loud and terrible to drive, but it would still drive!

edit: oh, and Edgethis, mine was leaking like crazy when I bought it. The guy drove it 70 miles and said "I put 5 extra quarts in the transmission so I could make it here", it was almost bubbling out of the top of the dipstick when I bought the Bronco he had it so overfilled ("Uh, I think it's not the right dipstick for this tranny") , not to mention, he was using the TC drain levels for when he drained the fluid from the pan, so he had been driving it extremely overfilled. No clue why I ended up getting anyways, I was probably just being dumb.. but I'm still on the same tranny and it's still going strong. As finicky as the E4OD is, it still can be pretty darn tough.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #24  
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I guess I will take a look at the truck. I mean even if the tranny breaks it will be a max of 3k to fix. Figure 4+3 is 7. The 5.8 is so bullet proof along with the rest of the truck I guess I really shouldn't worry much.

Plus I know the truck has never been off road and was never beat on. Any work done was never done by the owner it was done by a shop.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 09:24 AM
  #25  
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Sound good. Not being off road the electric shift motor moving into 4Lo may be a little sluggish from lack of use. If so, that is no big deal as it should free up with usage, but it may help your negotiations. Getting a light on the instrument cluster is good and you should hear it clunk in when the gearshift is in Neutral. Manual hubs are preferred.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 10:09 AM
  #26  
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Just two more things. Would it be bad to change the tranny fluid if it has never been changed? 17 year old fluid plus 50k miles makes me kinda just wanna leave the thing alone.

Also do you have to drain the torque converter or can you just drain the pan and filter and be ok?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #27  
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i wanted lock out hubs on mine, but the one i got has autos its a 93, i plan on changing them out
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 10:45 AM
  #28  
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After your get it study this web site Ford Fuel Injection then pull codes for your priorities. Warm it up and check the ATF level while running in Park on a LEVEL surface. Don't worry about the transmission fluid change for several months then drain the TC also. It is easy.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 11:28 AM
  #29  
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Also I do a lot of highway driving. Sometimes it can be very stop and go others I can cruse 75 mpg all the way home but on any given week I will travel at least 70 miles a day.

With all the highway driving should I install a bigger tranny cooler?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #30  
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All the more reasons to check codes and be sure all the emission and fuel/air controls are at their best. Probably no extra cooler, just watch your temp to be sure thermostat and fan clutch are working correctly. Extra cooler is already there if it has towing package.
 
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