Help! Proportioning Valve Issue?
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
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I took apart the valve a second time and there are only THREE o-rings on it. I took a picture the first time it pooped out (which I forgot I took) and there appears to be FOUR in the picture. I will try to figure out how to post and get your opinion. It would make sense that an o-rings goes on each side of the slide area for the switch to prevent pressure. Another baffling issue on how I lost a tight fitting o-ring (if that is truly the case).
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
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These are the two shots of the valve rod. The first shows four o-rings and the second only shows three o-rings. Not sure at all what happened to the third o-ring but I'm sure that will solve my problem.
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UPDATE: I got a new o-ring and got the rod re-installed. I learned a trick that I had to pry the valve rod in by using a pick to align the valley once it was already seated on the backside. I didn't realize that the rod separated from itself and expanded even further. But, once I got that all taken care of and reinstalled, I was able to get the system back up and running!
NEXT CHALLENGE: after the truck has been sitting for a period of time, it will run for about 5 seconds and die. Then I have to play the crank it over for a minute until it starts. Tells me there is an air leak someplace in the fuel system...
NEXT CHALLENGE: after the truck has been sitting for a period of time, it will run for about 5 seconds and die. Then I have to play the crank it over for a minute until it starts. Tells me there is an air leak someplace in the fuel system...
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
UPDATE: I got a new o-ring and got the rod re-installed. I learned a trick that I had to pry the valve rod in by using a pick to align the valley once it was already seated on the backside. I didn't realize that the rod separated from itself and expanded even further. But, once I got that all taken care of and reinstalled, I was able to get the system back up and running!
Start a new thread, this one is about brake parts.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Nelson, BC
For anyone reading this...
I've got an '82 F150 4.9 4x4 that had no front brakes after new master and calliper install. I needed to push/hold the little pin on the front of the proportioning valve (with a c lamp) to get my front brakes to bleed properly. Beware! Some models have the same looking little pin that needs to be PULLED during the bleeding process.
I've got an '82 F150 4.9 4x4 that had no front brakes after new master and calliper install. I needed to push/hold the little pin on the front of the proportioning valve (with a c lamp) to get my front brakes to bleed properly. Beware! Some models have the same looking little pin that needs to be PULLED during the bleeding process.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 119
Likes: 2
From: Fayetteville, NC
hi there.. do you have a picture of this item ?
I got a 81 F100 Ranger. I have replaced everything i can on the rear brakes except for the wheel cylinders
replaced the master cylinder and booster, they WERE bad..truck has been setting up many years.
the rear brakes work good with the park brake. but little pressure when regular brake is used. system is well bled, went thru half a quart of fluid during bleeding.
one person mentioned a 2nd brake cylinder ( on some models ) but mine does not have that.
i have also deglazed the drums. when i step on the brakes the wheel just slows to a stop.
i am wondering if this portioning valve is the cause.. i am familiar with drum brakes, but this one is kicking my butt.
can anyone advise ?
I got a 81 F100 Ranger. I have replaced everything i can on the rear brakes except for the wheel cylinders
replaced the master cylinder and booster, they WERE bad..truck has been setting up many years.
the rear brakes work good with the park brake. but little pressure when regular brake is used. system is well bled, went thru half a quart of fluid during bleeding.
one person mentioned a 2nd brake cylinder ( on some models ) but mine does not have that.
i have also deglazed the drums. when i step on the brakes the wheel just slows to a stop.
i am wondering if this portioning valve is the cause.. i am familiar with drum brakes, but this one is kicking my butt.
can anyone advise ?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 119
Likes: 2
From: Fayetteville, NC
thanks for your reply.. mine does not look like this.. mine is older, cast iron looking.
but i was more interested in this pin you was talking about.. can you point it out ? i am thinking it is the item at the end of the unit,,almost looks like a electrical connector.
if that is it.. i didn't know it was supposed to move..maybe i can push or pull and see what it does for me.
but i was more interested in this pin you was talking about.. can you point it out ? i am thinking it is the item at the end of the unit,,almost looks like a electrical connector.
if that is it.. i didn't know it was supposed to move..maybe i can push or pull and see what it does for me.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 265
Likes: 1
From: Portland OR
Bronco graveyard sells these, I have one in my truck and it works fine. The dudes over on the idi section of this forum can help with the no-run situation. Try replacing the fuel filter first tho
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/mobile/searchprods.asp
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/mobile/searchprods.asp
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
From: Springfield, MO
@dacflyer
Yours likely looks like this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18363574
It has two pins for the electrical connector also. Online and most forum posts seem to be of the single pin electrical connector kind. Maybe generic aftermarket? Not really sure.
Note that there is a tool that consists of a plastic pin that goes into the sensor port that is to be used when bleeding.
Yours likely looks like this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18363574
It has two pins for the electrical connector also. Online and most forum posts seem to be of the single pin electrical connector kind. Maybe generic aftermarket? Not really sure.
Note that there is a tool that consists of a plastic pin that goes into the sensor port that is to be used when bleeding.
