2007 Ford explorer 4x4 V8,

U0101 Failure to communicate with the TCM

Vehicle shifts very hard when under load then and when the Traction control light and the "wrench" light come on it seems to be stuck in high gear, if I stop it takes off like in high gear and never shifts, when I do an ignition cycle then the lights go off and it takes off in first gear and shifts as normal unless it's under load it will bang in and out of gear.

Any help here? Where is the TCM located? On a side note I do hear air like vacuum behind the center console when I press the pedal. Not sure if it has always done this or not.

 

Here is an update, not sure what to think or if the issues will return soon but...

I disconnected the battery and under the hood I unplugged and replugged a number of connectors. Reconnected the battery after about 30 minutes. This was Monday night, so far the issue is gone.

I am not real confident yet until I hook up the trailer and have an extra load on the vehicle or drive it again during wet conditions. Time will tell.

 

Hi did you have any update, I have same trouble with 07 Ford Explorer, Runs good, if is on parking it's ok, but when is reverse o drive you feel like engage on and off, jerking when shifting,now 3 lights on, wrench light, Traction control, check engine light, codes U0101, U1900, U0073.and hard acceleration will go into limp mode, drive me crazy, already. thanks

 

Hi, I needed Help with my 07 explorer this is what happen 3 month ago I drove the truck and feel like some clunk noise from differential, then transmission was engage on and off, took to Stealer, (Tom wood) then diagnostic, TCM, 342.00 to deep diagnostic, + 2,471.00 and they not sure if could ok may be more trouble I declined the job, I replaced Trany my self, nothing same thing, replaced Pcm, (used) same symptoms,(andy morh) reprogrammed and diagnostic, they said 4X4 Module need replaced and reprogramm (?) I took to another stealer (bill states) they reprogramm and install a new one, same crap, back to Andy M to rediagnostic, they took one week to said 4X4 Transfer case bad, I did my self, guest what? nothing change, same o same, I still to figured whats happen to go back to stealers tell the truth, any help welcome. thanks

 

Had three mechanics look at it but can't get rid of TCM code u0101
Replaced egr assembly with genuine part we20300.
Also had leak in oil cooler , drained fixed and refilled with genuine suggested oil.
It is a 2009 PK Ranger. All services up to date.130,000 K,s.
Car is brilliant apart from code.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Regards

 

I have not been on this site much, wish I would have. The problem with the issue I was having was a weak/bad battery, after unhooking the battery the problem went away I knew my battery was getting long in the tooth if I were to leave my door open 30 minutes I would need to jump it. Put in new battery Oct 2011 problem never came back, batteries can fail in many ways and the TCM does not play well.

 

I fixed this problem in My 2007 Ford Expediton SUV..

Just verify TCM cable from transmission and trace it , this cable pass behind engine and run to a connector on top right fender by engine comparten .. deconnect this cable from connector in both sides then test continuity pin by pin. . Can be a broken cable. IN MY CASE I HAD AL ERRORS MENTHIONED ABOVE.. AND, AFTER I FOUND BROKEN CABLES AND FIXED IT AL ERROR DESAPEAR AND, I FIX MY SUV.

AT,

JOSE
www.taxiconcept.com

 

Glad to here!! I wonder if disconnecting the re-connection the harnesses fixed my issue or the weak battery, either way it's been good almost 4 years.

 

Hi guys,

I have the same exact problem and it's driving me insane! Do you know which wiring harness you use? I hate to ask, but would you happen to have an pictures of where this is located? I think this is something I can do myself.

Thanks!

 

For my issue, I disconnected the battery and found two or three large connectors under the hood with locking tabs. I unplugged them them, about 1/2 hour later plugged them back in and reconnected the battery. Everything was then fine, I did replace the battery few days later as I knew it was getting weak.

Try this and also charge your battery I don't know for sure what my problem was a dirty wire connector or a weak battery but it's been 4.5 years ago and still doing fine. Glad I didn't take it somewhere $$$$

 

Hey guys FYI, I am new to this site, but these forums have saved my butt several times. My trans was doing the same think TCM u0101 and u1900 so the trans was slamming and jerking terribly. I took out the valve body, replaced the PC solenoid and put it all back together. But, I found this article

https://certifiedtransmission.wordpr...nition-system/

After two weeks of researching and repairing taking the valve body out twice...all for a stupid ignition coil.

Thanks guys

 

Can confirm the importance of viewing the above link ^.
For 2 months i was dealing with these problems that made driving virtually impossible...
With anything but deadly slow acceleration ( and eventually even at startup before driving)
i would encounter..WRENCH LIGHT + TRACS LIGHT+ CODES U1900 + P0101 (not U0101)
Spent 10's of hours searching for a solution until i viewed the above link.
I finally changed PLUGS ( Motorcraft ) and COILS (Accels)... which i have had for a year but never took the time to install. Also changed MAF and MAF CONNECTOR, which i do not believe did anything.
Just came back from a 200 mile trip and not once had any concern with any lights or codes,thank god. Also would suggest NOT to talk yourself into the cheap E-Bay $60/set coils...they ALWAYS will give trouble almost immediately. The interference from disintegrating coils affect the wiring/sensors due to the fact that the wires run directly over the coils on the passenger side.
Actually this video from the BEST Ford mechanic on You Tube was the first lead that led to me to repairing this weird problem...

 

That is a good video and makes sense I don't know if I had the U1900 code at the time. Did you have any problems changing the plugs? When I did mine at ~120K miles I think three broke off I already had the Lisle tool to remove the broken plugs but that was a scary job.

 

Came out like butter...i have a 2010 S Trac 4.6 8cyl. The problem plugs were before 2008 1/2. Spent a lot of time worrying about breaking them but that was a waste.Even getting to them was simple.Still took me about 3 hrs due to the fact that i was super cautious and blew everything out around the plugs 4-5 times. If anyone here is getting the WRENCH/TRACS LIGHT/CODES, strongly suggest you do plugs/coils first.

 

I have a Ford explorer. No issues besides slight whiting when crunk being glovebox.also for first 30 seconds or so no pulling power in drive. Hard shifting reverse, and having trouble finding gear sometimes. Randomly wrench will pop up. But ends up disappearing. Got stuck the other day it had no pull in gear. The next day it drives fairly fine. Have tried to diagnose. Someone before me changed coil pack and spar plug wires. Have hooked up code readers just to get nothing ,even when the wrench is present. Electrical intereference????