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Step on the gas pedal harder?? Seriously, I'm not sure if there is any cheap/easy ways to get a noticeable HP increase. There are some tweaking type stuff that might get a few pony increase but I assume your talking more major increases. I'd say on the 5.0 I'd head for increasing exhaust flow first. Headers, hi-flow cat, larger pipes and doing some exhaust port work. Grinding out the thermactor bumps and polishing the exhaust runners can do wonders. If you do the head work yourself then it is a relatively inexpensive mod but requires alot of time contributed. Next I'd have to head for the cam. There's some decent profiles that'll give a good bang for the buck but this is tearing into the engine pretty deep too. The list can go on and on but the exhaust flow and cam would be where I'd spend my time and effort.
Sucks that no one else has any opinions.. ..i'd be interested. Right now I'm working on electrical and some body mods (just because I know enough of the basics on both). But sooner or later I want to start on the engine.. > any other opinions?
Set timing ahead. I run 11.5, but I am sure you could sneak it out even further with 89 or 93 octane gas to 14 or 15 d btdc.
insulate the air intake - I bought a roll of the foil backed insulation from home depot and wrapped my air intake hoses. (I also wrapped all of my A/c for better summer performance). I'm not done yet, but it's getting there.
High flow cat and y-pipe (about 370 installed)
Exhaust - $180 if you do it yourself for a 3"
Headers $165 or so.
higher flow air filter (K&N or Accel has one now, which is what I have, called the Kool Blue. It works ok and is cheaper. This is a trade off though because it doesn't filter as well as a paper filter... which is why it's high flow anyway. Unless you are increasing surface area of the filter element, the trade off will always be filter performance to filtration effectiveness) $35 installed.
The biggest cheap improvements over stock that I did on my 88 5.0 are free flowing exhaust a K&N filter and I,m running 14 degrees of andvance. Next change was a new motor which came with a cam& headers from ford. That helped the most but don't know if it was the new motor or the cam , Probably a combo of both. Ya I know new motor isn't cheap and I'm not saying to get one but if your into it a cam is a good thing but definetly do the exhaust, filter, timing. It sure helped mine.
Well, a full exhaust made a huge difference on my truck. I am going with some Hooker long tubes fairly soon here in lieu of my Mustang shorty headers. High flow cat and a good muffler too. I recommend the Magnaflow mufflers. They sound great, flow a ton, and have limited resonation.
Underdrive pullies are nice too. I installed them in about 45 min (with air tools). Decent power gain.
Bump your timing too. Get an adj fuel pressure reg. I'd drop it down from ~43psi to about 40-41psi.
If your truck is MAF equipped, you can purchase a larger MAF meter or port the stocker like I did. Also some sort of air intake will help. Most don't like the open element ones as they are concerned with heat soak. Well most heat build up will happen if you sit in traffic idling for a while.
I also have an electric fan to be going on also very soon.
If you decided to pull off your heads, get some used GT-40 irons. They flow way better than the E7 stockers. You would easily pick up 30-40hp. Or you could port match you stockers if you don't wanna spend the cash.
Does anyone have *true* dual exhaust? I've got the damn y-thing and I think w/ all the bends its choking the hell out of the flow.. ..but they look so damn cool. ..its ashame "stainless steel" doesn't stay *stainless*... damn pennsylvania winters and friggin' rock salt, i'm sure....
keep the ideas coming. I'm sure I could tackle the exhaust.. ..i've got a sawsall.. what about emissions? these high flow cats and muffelers.. ..will they pass? if I just wanted to sound loud and not worry about inspection (not that I'm *NOT* 2 years out of inspection already. ) I'd save the $$ and just drill some holes in the muffler..
<sigh> the more i read into these forums the more i keep thinking: "come up w/ 35-40 grand and just buy a new one..." ..then the old lady reads my mind and hits me.. (i'm very abused.. ..or so i justify the 12 pack of empties and funny smoke sitting around me at the moment..)
guess i'll just have to settle w/ style and less zooom.
I wanted to run true duals but I couldn't becuase I have Speed Density and this means only one oxygen sensor on my truck when duals need two. I ended up getting two flowmater 40's and an x-pipe put on. AMAZING! It made a huge difference but I also had a new motor, bigger cam, headers, head work, fipk, etc. But the exhaust was put on after all that and i could still tell a very big difference.
This has been driving me nuts for a while.. ..speed density and mass air flow.. ..what the hell do I have??? I've got a 96 f150 5.0 302.. ..chilton doesn't specify what I have and I don't know what to look for to tell me.. it makes a whole lot of difference if I want to "supe" it.. (yes yes yes, hitman, supe it as much as a 302 will let me.......)
if it's speed density you will have 2 hoses going to the air filter housing, if it;s MAF which I'm pretty sure it probably is, it will have one hose with a metal thing in it before the air filter housing, or the meter may be in the housing itself. That the easiest way to tell you, also look for a set of wires coming off of the hose going to the air filter.