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Not when I put these instructions together they didnt, or maybe I didnt have the rights to do at that time.
You had the "rights" to host and post pictures in back April 2012, when you put the instructions together... but the more important fact is that you still have these rights to host and post photos today... not just in your own FTE albums, but now, you can upload photos from your device directly into a post, skipping over the album step, and FTE will automatically create your album for you.
So if you still have the photos on a card, camera, or computer (assuming you had to have the photos on something in order to upload them to Photobucket), feel free to edit your original write up with direct uploads of those shots into your post.
Even though it’s almost 9 years later, this was so incredibly helpful to me today, my shift tube cracked completely in half and I had to replace the whole thing, thank you so so much!
Last edited by Y2KW57; Jul 24, 2022 at 11:30 PM.
Reason: Reiterative quote of OP pics removed by member request, to reduce data usage load for mobile devices, and reduce scroll time.
Since I’ve messed with mine today I found out I need to tear into it again. Should the shift lever wear the inner tube/rod/whatever you wanna call it to the point there’s a small pile of metal shavings under where the shift arm comes out? Mine seems to have created more clearance that it should have so Ill be replacing atleast part of it again. Does anyone know where to buy the little bushing for the shift lever going into the tube, the flat piece with ears so the lever itself isn’t flopping around.
This metal clip/ bushing. And the piece that is wearing is the inner rod in the main tube, the shavings are underneath the opening where the shift lever goes in with the pictured piece
This metal clip/ bushing. And the piece that is wearing is the inner rod in the main tube, the shavings are underneath the opening where the shift lever goes in with the pictured piece
Dealer is likely the only one. You can order the entire kit on eBay.
Hey Moderators - is there a way to take out the pictures in @Will Dunlavey 's post from 01-08-2021, 12:01 AM
He quoted the entire thing and it's hogging up the page.
Very helpful thread topic guys! I'm going to dig into mine!
Just wanted to express appreciation once again for the tech folder. I've done the shift tube bushings in years past and today it couldn't be ignored any longer. Had gotten to the point where no amount of holding up on the shift lever helped, just wouldn't start.
I actually thought this time it would be the whole tube needing replacement, turned out to just need the bushings.
A quick refresher looking through the tech folder to get it all fresh in my mind, and zipped right through. I had forgotten what a properly operating shifter felt like.
Another example of a great resource making life a bit easier.
I am bumping it because I am sitting in a parking lot moderately far from home reading it.
My key cylinder is completely locked by the arm that slides up from below.
My shifter tube was broken yesterday, possibly by the young guy at the tire shop trying to put it in Park before the tires stopped rolling. Or, perhaps 22.8 years & > 500K miles after manufacture, it was its time; **** happens when your truck is legal to drink. I didn’t hold it against them. But I requested they relax, and put it on their schedule for the next day. This offended them. They were all running around too fast with too much on their daily schedule already anyway; they had a Dorman tube installed less than 2 hours later. I don’t know yet what shortcuts they probably took.
I found I could get the key out only by pulling the shifter to me to a certain spot, but otherwise everything was working great; PRNDL very good as before.
Until about the 4th or 5th key removal. I can now get the key out all I want, but the arm locking the key cylinder won’t move. Nor will the shift lever come as far forward as it should, or move down from Park.
I cut off the top half of the clamshell already, just to get at everything.
I am unsure if it is wise to continue into removing the tube with multiple parts of the little system locked, for one. I also wonder if a problem with the cable or the TRS switch might be causing the lock up anyway. Neither are something I have ever laid eyes on before.
So, the tube in there is at least new. Dunno what else might have needed some TLC or replacing.
But my main question is: what would make the arm locking the cylinder just stick there, and basically freeze the upper part of the arm, too?
And not too surprisingly, I now locked up the steering wheel, too, trying to see if it was locking the shift tube somehow. Normally that is released by just turning the key…
Last edited by jackstraw; Aug 25, 2022 at 05:32 PM.
Reason: Bonus detail
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ya bruh!!!
