Gear Vendor Controller
#1
Gear Vendor Controller
I just bought a truck with a 5 speed ZF and a gear vendors on it behind the tcase, it doesnt seem the controller for the GV is in the truck anymore, the speedo and odometer dont work, it has the overdrive button with green light and the red "splitter" **** on the shift stick.... anyone know how to go about hooking this thing up without the computer and how it will work?
#2
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#5
Unless the previous owner wired the Gear Vendor to the red **** on the shifter, the red **** is NOT for the over drive.
I checked the current kits at Gear Vendor and they all include a floor switch (looks like a second dimmer switch). US Gear over drive is shifted with a push/pull **** and there is an engine brake that uses the same type of ****.
The gear vendor "can" be wired for use without the controller but Gear Vendor will not tell you how. The controller works with the speed sensor so it won't shift at too low rpm. Gear Vendor over drive is shifted in simple terms electric over hydraulic. The pressure needs to be high enough to stay engaged. I've read from 18 to 27 mph? As long as you shift at high enough rpm I don't see any problem. The controller also locks out the ability to use while in 4 low. The rocker switch on the dash lets you change from using the OD in every gear to the trans shifting normally then into OD at around 50 mph. All somewhat useful I guess but not necessary.
I'd have to look again but I believe there are only 2 wires to the shift solenoid on the box so wiring should be simple.
I had the speed sensor go out on mine probably 9 yrs ago. Running through the controller the gear vendor would suddenly drop out of OD. At 70+ mph with 4:10 gears and the 5.9 Cummins, dropping out of OD is NOT a good thing, besides making a guy suck a couple inches of seat up the nether regions.
The Gear Vendor has been in my truck around 16 yrs. If something goes wrong with the controller, I have already decided to by pass it for a simple push/pull switch and throw the rest of the stuff out.
I checked the current kits at Gear Vendor and they all include a floor switch (looks like a second dimmer switch). US Gear over drive is shifted with a push/pull **** and there is an engine brake that uses the same type of ****.
The gear vendor "can" be wired for use without the controller but Gear Vendor will not tell you how. The controller works with the speed sensor so it won't shift at too low rpm. Gear Vendor over drive is shifted in simple terms electric over hydraulic. The pressure needs to be high enough to stay engaged. I've read from 18 to 27 mph? As long as you shift at high enough rpm I don't see any problem. The controller also locks out the ability to use while in 4 low. The rocker switch on the dash lets you change from using the OD in every gear to the trans shifting normally then into OD at around 50 mph. All somewhat useful I guess but not necessary.
I'd have to look again but I believe there are only 2 wires to the shift solenoid on the box so wiring should be simple.
I had the speed sensor go out on mine probably 9 yrs ago. Running through the controller the gear vendor would suddenly drop out of OD. At 70+ mph with 4:10 gears and the 5.9 Cummins, dropping out of OD is NOT a good thing, besides making a guy suck a couple inches of seat up the nether regions.
The Gear Vendor has been in my truck around 16 yrs. If something goes wrong with the controller, I have already decided to by pass it for a simple push/pull switch and throw the rest of the stuff out.
#6
Gear Vendors
I had the speed sensor go out on mine probably 9 yrs ago. Running through the controller the gear vendor would suddenly drop out of OD. At 70+ mph with 4:10 gears and the 5.9 Cummins, dropping out of OD is NOT a good thing, besides making a guy suck a couple inches of seat up the nether regions.
The Gear Vendor has been in my truck around 16 yrs. If something goes wrong with the controller, I have already decided to by pass it for a simple push/pull switch and throw the rest of the stuff out.
The Gear Vendor has been in my truck around 16 yrs. If something goes wrong with the controller, I have already decided to by pass it for a simple push/pull switch and throw the rest of the stuff out.
My 2001 Ram (4.10's, 6 speed, 4wd, Cummins) used to do this also (drop out on big bumps)...sucked. ended up being a bad bulb (shorted filament) in the GV power switch...go figure huh?.....
Still hate the way the thing hangs on the back of the transfer case though..the crappy adaptation/mounting that WILL eventually cause problems with the thin weak transfer case housing......eventually..
Had vibration problems forever...until I went to a full leaf setup on the rear axle too....
#7
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#8
Gear Vendors..
Not much they can do, they have found (over time) that the unit is really too much to have hanging way out on the rear of the NV241HD.....cracks the cases, mine leaks but hasn't failed.
It would have been better installed with a shorter output shaft and adapter assembly...
Add the variable angle drivetrain caused by the rear (Dodge) oem blocks and axle wrap...royal PIA....replaced with full arch springs...
Still use it, eats output yokes every coupla years (chews up the splines where they tighten up to the inside of the unit)....
Had to call them and order a new shifter switch yesterday, have about 150K on the unit...
It would have been better installed with a shorter output shaft and adapter assembly...
Add the variable angle drivetrain caused by the rear (Dodge) oem blocks and axle wrap...royal PIA....replaced with full arch springs...
Still use it, eats output yokes every coupla years (chews up the splines where they tighten up to the inside of the unit)....
Had to call them and order a new shifter switch yesterday, have about 150K on the unit...
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