My truck is a 96 with a 5.8. I wasnt getting spark and had it towed and repaired since I couldn't diagnose. The mechanic replaced my ignition module and a fuse. He put in a gray module instead of black. My truck has ran fine so far since the repair. But I've read in posts on this forum that it should be a black module. Should I replace with black or will this be OK?

 

Sooner or later you will most likely end up getting an error code related to the loss of the IDM signal. You really need to replace that gray TFI with a black one.

The gray module is referred to as a "Push-Start" version, meaning the TFI controls the dwell. The black one is "CCD" Computer Controlled Dwell. That means the computer controls the dwell (spark duration).

 

I talked to my mechanic and he said that he out on what the part place gave him and that there was nothing he could do. What kind of driveability issues will this cause? I'll end up buying the black one and doing it myself since its easy.

 

Most part stores will sell the wrong module.
You need to ask for an Ignition Control Module for a 1995 Mustang 5.0L engine to get the right Black one from a parts store.
All of their parts computers and books are wrong for the 1994-1996 F-Series trucks.
Your mechanic should have known better if he has worked on many Ford trucks from that era.

 

You will also need a special socket to change it yourself just did mine. GET THE BLACK ONE

 

THanks guys

 

Well I will have to call my mechanic tomorrow and get him to replace the ICM with a black one. My truck would not start earlier. Took me about 10 tries to get to start. When I got it started I took it and had the codes read and they were both related to ICM (PO1351 and PO1359). IT has been hard to start 3 more times and doesn't have the power it used to. Ya'll are definitely right on with your advice. thanks

 

OK i went and got a black ignition module and installed it. Unhooked battery while i did the install. Hooked battery back up. Engine wouldn't crank. I tried 15 times til I ran battery down. Hooked up jumper cables to charge battery. Finally after a few tries, the engine would run but then stop after a few seconds. This happened several times in the driveway. Then it stayed running for a few minutes and so i took it for a drive. 3 minutes into my drive it cuts off. On the fifth try it cranked and ran for a few seconds then cut off. Then it cranked right up and I drove around for ten minutes and let it idle for15 minutes back and the house. The engine is purring like akitten. I guess the computer was trying to relearn things now with good spark.

Also I only get 25 lbs fuel pressure with key on engine off to start with. Then when engine cranks and runs it goes up to 32. It will go to 38 with the regulator pulled off. Is this enough pressure and could this be a new problem? I have new fuel filter.....maybe time for a new pump?

 

I think you have the same problem that you took it to the mechanic to fix in the first place.

Could be either a problem with the distributor (PIP sensor) or fuel.

The 25 lbs fuel pressure with key on engine off to start with does not mean a thing.
The 32 lbs at idle is about right.
It should go to 40 lbs when you pulled the hose off the nipple of the FPR with the engine running.
38 is a little low but you need to see what it does when you go to WOT with hose off the nipple of the FPR with the engine running. See if it holds the 38 lbs without dropping any.

 

Thanks subford for your input will check on these things

 

Truck won't stay running again. Can I change the pip or do I need to replace distributor on a 96 model? I had aMustang gt once and the 'pick up" in the distribitor was replaced and it cured a problem very similar to this. The mechanic didnt replace the dist. , just the what he called the pick up. Also , with key on engine off, the fuel pump will cycle for one second and cut off which is normal. But then it will do it again on its on without the key being turned. It did this 3 times on it's own and then fired right up and then cuts off after a few minutes.

 

The only thing I can think of that will do that is the Computer or the Ignition switch.
Of course when I say the Ignition switch it could also be the Power relay or power going off and on from the battery.

 

THanks for all your help. Once i got engine running again yesterday ,I let it idle for a while and revved it up once in awhile. Then I drove it to run some errands. Ran great and started evertime i tried. THis morning fired as soon as I hit the key. Iam going to change distributor soon as a preventative measure and check into the ignition switch. The switch does lock up sometime so maybe there is an issue there...thanks again