Where can I find the Carter YF WOT valve, bracket, and screws for a 1983 non-feedback carburetor?

Do I need the WOT valve for the EGR, or can I just plug my hose into the port next to the throttle plate on the drivers side of the carb? My Emissions Label doesn't even show this port.

The Bowl Vent is unplugged now, btw.

 

What is the WOT valve?(wide open throttle valve?).

 

The Wide Open Throttle valve (I've also read it referred to as a Load Control Valve) for the EGR is a valve that sits on a plate screwed to the carburetor at the fuel bowl vent.

What it does, is see the opposite side of the carburetor from the throttle plate? Under the fuel bowl vent there's a lever that is connected to the throttle plate on the opposite side of the carburetor from the throttle plate.

And, if I understand correctly, when you press the throttle to the floor, the lever will go all the way up and push on a nipple on the back of the WOT valve. This takes some vacuum pressure off of the EGR's vacuum line so it doesn't choke the motor out with exhaust gases.

If you don't have the WOT valve, as I understand, and you floor it, then exhaust gases will bog down the motor until it can draw in the correct amount of air and fuel.

In short, without it, it should run like crap.

Here's a photo online of a carburetor with a WOT valve that I've edited:

 

The Emissions label under my hood, I have a photo of. But, it's a little harder to read. I found this one online looking up WOT valve stuff (to no good result).

To hook up my EGR, I run a vacuum line off the ported vacuum switch to the E on my carburetor. Then, run a vacuum line from the vacuum switch to the EGR vacuum nipple. T into that with an F connector, and on the tail end of the F connector, run that to the Wide Open Throttle Valve.

The question is, where the heck can I get a wide open throttle valve and plate?

It's no big deal if I can't find the plate because I'll just make one out of sheet metal. But I need that valve so I can hook up my EGR on my truck and get better mileage. Emissions equipment is not mandatory where I live (going to be moving back to SC, and theres NO inspections there. You ought to see what's on the road down there. HAH!)

 

Here's a helpful thread I just found on another forum about the WOT valve.

Help me identify the part - Ford Forums Online - Ford Discussion & Enthusiast Forum

 

BTT in hopes of somebody caring?

 

Well, thanks for the explanation.

1. It's been my experience that running with or without the egr doesn't really affect fuel mileage. It does affect how it runs, sometimes causing detonation and pinging if it's disconnected or not working. I would try it without the egr hooked up and see what happens, every engine seems a little different in how it reacts.

2. If you find you need to run the egr, then just hook it up with the vacuum switch, and try it without the wot throttle switch. You may find it was to cover up some little blip that you could actually live with, and never will cause a problem. I wonder why this particular setup had this valve, because not all engines used it with the egr system.

At least you are going about this the right way. Most people just cut and disconnect lines, without even knowing what they are for. If you figure out what each thing does like you are doing, then you can experiment with disconnecting things, knowing what to possibly expect when you do it.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Honestly, I wonder if it was even needed on these trucks. I don't see it listed online a separate part you can just go out and buy.

The truck runs and drives great as it is. It's got good throttle response, it doesn't bog, but it does drink a little.

I guess I'll try and hook it up without the WOT whenever I can get some more hose for it and see how it runs.

 

I know this is an old thread: I have an 85 F150 W/300 and I did the DSII Conversion (some of you may recall). How can I hook my egr back up...engine doesn't seem to be running quite right. Tks.!!

 

What are your symptoms? The EGR usually won't affect how it runs if it's disconnected. It will cause it to ping sometimes though when it's disconnected. And just being there can cause a rough idle if it's leaking but disconnected.

 

There is some popping/pinging and the idle isn't just quite right. The timing was set after the DSII Conversion and reman carb was adjusted all by a mechanic. I see where others say to use a WOT valve (wide open throttle valve) and TVS (temperature vacuum switch)...I'm not real sure where to find them or what they look like or what they will do...

 

I think we came to the conclusion in the previous posts that some of that was not needed for it to work.

I have one other question; The reman carb, is it the older style to go along with the DSII or is it a original type made for your original engine setup?

If you want to get the EGR working, I think you will need to get one made for the older style DSII system on the 300. The vacuum for the EGR is fed through a thermal switch, so the EGR will not get vacuum till the engine is warmed up. The system gets it's vacuum from a port on the carb that does not have vacuum at idle, only when you rev the engine.

 

I purchased a reman carb (pre-computer controlled/but does have egr port/inlet). So, again what would the benefit be to get a WOT, etc/does anyone have a pic of what I need (what years, etc)? Tks!!!

 

Ralph explains the WOT valve well:

 

Does anyone have a picture of what I need...also seeing as my egr isn't hooked-up...do I even need a. WOT Valve??!