engine coolant drain plug
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I've never done that. On any vehicle I did a coolant flush on I'd drain the coolant. fill with water, run the engine for a bit drain again. then refill with correct coolant/water mix.
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Fleet Mechanic
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I pull block drain plugs whenever possible. A 460 holds many quarts in the lower water jacket. Even the smaller engines hold quite a bit.
By using the radiator drain, or pulling the lower radiator hose, all the water in the block below the water pump passage level stays in the block. There is an upper common area, that pulling either side's block plug will drain. And a lower water jacket area (one each side of the engine) that only the plug on that side will drain.
I've pulled out the driver's side block plug on the '97 4.6L with no problem. Can't tell ya what wrench I used, don't remember. But it was no big deal. I used #1 Permatex (the setting type) on the plug threads before putting it back in.
Block drain plug on the passenger side on many V-engines are blocked by the starter. Pulling those on old engines can be a good idea. May pull the plug... and nothing comes out! Have to poke a thin steel rod in to dislodge crud, or casting sand that collected there at the bottom of the water jacket.
By using the radiator drain, or pulling the lower radiator hose, all the water in the block below the water pump passage level stays in the block. There is an upper common area, that pulling either side's block plug will drain. And a lower water jacket area (one each side of the engine) that only the plug on that side will drain.
I've pulled out the driver's side block plug on the '97 4.6L with no problem. Can't tell ya what wrench I used, don't remember. But it was no big deal. I used #1 Permatex (the setting type) on the plug threads before putting it back in.
Block drain plug on the passenger side on many V-engines are blocked by the starter. Pulling those on old engines can be a good idea. May pull the plug... and nothing comes out! Have to poke a thin steel rod in to dislodge crud, or casting sand that collected there at the bottom of the water jacket.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
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The driver's side block drain plug is about 2" above the rear-most core plug ("freeze plug") on the block. On my 2WD, it is just above and a bit forward of the oil filter. Easy to get to sliding under from behind the left front wheel.
Once it's really loose, I just spin the extension by hand and slide myself back, because when the plug comes out, it dumps!
Before putting some Permatex #1 sealer on it and installing it, I thread it in bare with the extension held by hand not by wrench, to get a feeling for the insertion angle needed. It has to be threaded in really straight, or else it isn't right. When you have it started right, it threads in easy.
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Just had my driver's side out a month ago. On my 1997 4.6 WINDSOR engine (VIN code "6" for 8th VIN digit), it is an internal hex plug. I use a metric hex that is fitted into its own socket, driven with a 3/8" drive, a Craftsman Metric Hex 3/8" drive set I have. I put an extension on it, and it is easy to get to.
The driver's side block drain plug is about 2" above the rear-most core plug ("freeze plug") on the block. On my 2WD, it is just above and a bit forward of the oil filter. Easy to get to sliding under from behind the left front wheel.
Once it's really loose, I just spin the extension by hand and slide myself back, because when the plug comes out, it dumps!
Before putting some Permatex #1 sealer on it and installing it, I thread it in bare with the extension held by hand not by wrench, to get a feeling for the insertion angle needed. It has to be threaded in really straight, or else it isn't right. When you have it started right, it threads in easy.
The driver's side block drain plug is about 2" above the rear-most core plug ("freeze plug") on the block. On my 2WD, it is just above and a bit forward of the oil filter. Easy to get to sliding under from behind the left front wheel.
Once it's really loose, I just spin the extension by hand and slide myself back, because when the plug comes out, it dumps!
Before putting some Permatex #1 sealer on it and installing it, I thread it in bare with the extension held by hand not by wrench, to get a feeling for the insertion angle needed. It has to be threaded in really straight, or else it isn't right. When you have it started right, it threads in easy.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
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Mines a 17mm, had to buy a 6 point. it was bugered up so I had to file it a little and tap the socket on it. I still couldn't get it. Had to put the truck on a rack, to get enough leverage. What every you do don't hammer the breaker bar or jerk on it, the plug is very soft. I got around a gallon of coolant out of the lower block. I flushed the COLD engine with a hose hooked to a Prestone flush tee. Put the plug back in started the engine, and continued till water came warm. partially drained radiator, added cleaner. Drove for three days, let engine cool, flushed thru tee, and out recovery tank, till clear. Started engine, flushed till clear. Drained block, and radiator. blew heater coil, radiator, and engine block out with 50 psi compressed air. Filled with distilled water, drove till hot, let cool, drained. Blew out system, reinstalled block plug with Never-seez. On my 4.6 L with a single pass radiator, I added 9 quarts of 100% yellow anti-freeze and topped off with distilled water. You'll have to keep topping of the coolant tank, as bubbles are worked out. A refractometer indicates -34 which is 50/50.
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Michael Littman
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
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Jul 26, 2005 10:13 PM
