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10 psi boost blows coolant

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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 04:28 PM
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10 psi boost blows coolant

2001 PSD, 240k miles, 6 speed manual, 4 position superchip, 4 in turbo-back pipe, afe cai. About a month ago I was driving in a rural area (45-50 mph), The engine idiot light came on and the temp gauge pegged. I checked the fluid level, it was way down. I thought thermostat, water pump, radiator. I noticed the last cold day in the spring that the temp spiked and lost heat in the cab. So water pump, thermostat were on my mind. Changed both. along with a new fan that was pretty badly cracked. new hoses, and serpentine belt. Put it back together drove it. Noticed coolant dripping when i got back from test drive, opened the hood to a coolant mess. very little coolant in the reservoir. added coolant drove it about 60 miles with boost under 10 psi. no "leaks" on the highway over 10 psi it consistently blows coolant out. Head gasket? thanks for your help Tony
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 06:28 PM
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Head gasket is not very common on these trucks, but anything is possible. Is there any signs the coolant is mixing with your engine oil? Are you positive the 10 psi of boost has anything to do with it, or did perhaps it just take the truck that long to warm up to full operating temp? Can you tell where the coolant is going? Out the cap? Cracked degas bottle?

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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 07:34 PM
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No evidence that oil is contaminated. I have driven 140 miles and kept boost below 10 psi with no significant loss of coolant. On that trip however the engine would not turn over the next morning i mean not even spin. Jumped it got it started no more smoke than usual (blue). Short runs, yes, maybe not 100% warm. 8 miles at 70 degrees it should be warmed up don't you think? Coolant is blowing by the cap. Underside of the hood is wet from degas back. Possible that bottle is cracked. It would have to be pretty small t run at operating temp for two hours and loose little fluid. I have owed this since new and it has been great, thoughts?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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I would have it pressurized and see if it holds. Also have the cap pressurized. Something will give if its the cap or tank. The radiator shop should also have a block tester. Its is a device they set in the tank when running that tells them if it is a block or head gasket. Being you ran it so hot without knowing you could have damaged the heads or gasket which is pressurizing the colling system and blowing coolant. This is very common on the chev 6.2 disels when they came out. Our 7.3 not at all unless run very hot. Please keep us posted, it is something not heard of much on here.
Chet
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by orange powerstroke
Short runs, yes, maybe not 100% warm. 8 miles at 70 degrees it should be warmed up don't you think?
With A/M water temp gauge, you'd be surprised how long/when, that thermostat opens up.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 02:45 PM
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alrighty then. Pulled the degas tank upon CLOSE inspection noticed at the casting mark a very small crack. pressurized the tank to 15 psi let it set for an hour. pressure drop of 2 psi. removed the cap pressurized the tank hour later a 1.5 psi drop. Installed new tank and cap. Purged the air out of the system test drive. Turned the chip up ran it to 2800 rpm, ran it hard 3-6 25 lbs boost. NO LEAKS !!!! This is the lesson learned. Occam's razor still applies, in that the when faced with equal hypotheses the hypothesis that makes the fewest assumptions is more likely to be correct. Thanks for the info and the assistance.
Tony
 
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 01:41 AM
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That is a common place to crack on these. The 6.0 trucks had an issue with it too and I have seen some other manufacturers with the same issue. You have to catch at just the right to catch the leak.
 
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