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I've read several threads over the last few months about weak HPOP's that had a reman sticker on them. If you get a chance, post up a picture of the reman sticker showing what it looks like and where it's mounted.
All of those threads were fixed when a new HPOP was installed, of course no one posts a thread talking about how well their reman HPOP is working so that's not exactly surprising the ones we read about are failures.
I'll try to get a pic this week. I tried to wipe it off a little better and just managed to make harder to read. It is located right where the factory bar code sticker would be.
I got to pressurize the heads tonight, it takes about 2 minutes each to leak down from 3000 to 2000 psi with the engine cold. Anyone know if that acceptable?
First, what kind of set up are you using to pressurize the heads? Typically we block off one of the lines in the HPOP and let the HPOP itself pressurize one head with a gauge plumbed in. If that head looks OK, switch to the other side and re-test. If that looks OK, block off both heads and check the pressure of the HPOP while cranking. If that looks OK, remove one of the plugs and check the volume of the HPOP while cranking. If you get a dribble of oil coming out, something is wrong. If you get a really big mess and think, holy shoot that's a lot of oil, then things are right.
Your 2 minute leak down sounds like it's probably good, but I bet your o-rings don't like you doing that.
I honestly don't remember. Probably cold though. It would take to long to cool down in the evenings for me to take the cross over off unless it had sat all day.
These were my test when I was troubleshooting. Here is the tool I used. Did yours look like this?
Pretty much. Gauge mounted on the pump and I used an adaptor to attach an old HPOP line line so I could use the STC connectors. It was a pain to build the line, but well worth it. Less then a minute to hook it up.
I put in some new injector o-rings and another set of injectors this weekend. No change. I didn't really expect to see one, but needed to finish putting in these sticks and new o-rings anyway. (I had put 2 in and re-used the old o-rings.) I did find 4 loose hold down bolts, though. If nothing else is sounds much better with every thing tight and a LL back in the number 8 hole.
This is my preference but I like to pull the resovoir off. It makes it way easier to get the fuel lines off. Plus you can inspect the screen where the hpop pick up is. But if you do this you will need a new res gasket. If you do pull the res, the only warning I give you is that you blow or suck the oil out of the res hold down bolts! I've even gotten good enough that I don't have to pull thecover for the hpop gear bolt. I remove and reinstall it from the top with a wrench and a magnet. Good luck and can't wait to hear the results!
I got the T500 in today and it cured the problem. I'm now holding 2600psi + at 38% DC.
I now have a rough idle that I'm hoping is just air, but I think I may damaged the IPR when swapping pumps. I didn't think to get o-rings for it and didn't even look at old ones when I put it in the new pump. I have seen the pressure drop into the low 300's at idle while DC climbed into the 30's and sometimes it will act like the ICP is lagging behind. I'll give a week or so to work out. If it doesn't improve I will just replace the IRP with a new one so everything in the HPO system is new.
Here are the pics of the old pump that 350-6 requested.
Seems like everyone with one of these reman pumps is either having problems or the pump is not performing well. And that's just the people who are noticing!
A good way to tell when most of the air is gone from the system is when the start times are fairly quick. Congrats on the new t 500!