When I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did following the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.
FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft.
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum.

 

all I was saying is someone involved in the development of it should have seen a problem coming with these two different kind of metals touching each other that they might seize together. Maybe not I guess, but I assume we are talking about very smart people here. And BTW, I do agree, Flathead's aint bad at all, but I don't like Blue cats.

 

I understand exactly what you are saying- and AGREE!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I just did mine this weekend. 06 F150 XLT 5.4L, 97,000 miles. 5 of 8 broke off in various styles, some pulled the electrode, some left it in the sleeve.. your pictures sent shivers down my spine.

I ordered the removal tool before I started and am very glad I did. It got all of the pieces out, even the ones with the electrode still in the hole. It did take me a while because I kept removing the "pusher" tool to see if I had just enough depth to thread the puller.

All in all, with overnight soaking and everything, I took my time and it was about 9 hours in all (including back breaks)....

Good luck...

 

I do agree they should have seen a problem and for sure should stand behind the product (excessive cost), but I do not think this has anything to do with "different kind of metals" seizing together. It is about the perfect clearance allowing carbon to build up in between the head and the plug sleeve, thus causing a seize due to resulting lack of clearance. This has been all that I have read about and seen personally when I changed my plugs. 7 of 8 broke. Only the first survived, which gave me a false sense of hope.

 

Thanks for all the input this far. I can tell this is a group of people who share my frustration. As I mentioned when I started this thread, I changed the plugs on my '04 with very little problems. Now, this '06 of my sons is a different story.

We wound up breaking 6 of the 8 plugs off in the head. Got the Lisle extractor set, successfully extracted 5 with very little problems. The remaining one is giving us fits.

If you have used the Lisle tool, you know that the "pusher" tool pushes the porcelain down a preset distance (about 1/2" or so) to allow room for the extractor tool. However, on this particular plug shield, the porcelain seems to have only pushed about 1/4" (thus, not allowing enough metal for the extractor tool to "bite" in to). I'm starting to think that the whole shield housing has been pushed down into the cylinder hole about 1/4" (from what I can see).

Here is my line of thought. The extractor tool had some very nice, sharp threads out of the box. After removing a couple of the plug shields, the threads began to dull down significantly. I would use a small triangle file to put between the threads and sharpen them back up, thus allowing them to "bite" better. After doing this, obviously the threads are not the same tolerance and thickness they were out of the box. So, I've ordered a new extractor tool (just the threaded piece, not the whole kit). The Lisle engineering dept says to clean the hole out good with brake cleaner or alcohol, blow it out, use Loctite, let it set up 24 hrs and give it a final try (kind of a one shot "last ditch effort" now that the metal in the shield has thinned out). Mike at Lisle was a big help but claims it isn't possible to push the shield down further than the preset amount allowed by their pusher tool.

Got to checking out the Calvan 39100 from Denlor Tools. Talked to Dennis at Denlor about the above, he thinks I'm on the right track.

Calvan CAL 39100 Ford Spark Plug Extractor Specialty Tool | Hard to Find Automotive Specialty Tools

I guess my delima is that I'm down to probably one last shot at this before I've stripped and thinned out the metal on the remaining shield to where the head will have to be pulled (if I haven't already). I'm wondering which of the two (the replacement Lisle extractor with new, sharp threads or the Calvan which utilizes an actual "tap") will give me the best shot? I've ordered both and they will be here Thursday.

Couple of other bits of info.
- when originally removing the plugs, most broke off with the long electrode still attached to the part that came out. On two, the electrode remained. I used long, needle nose pliers to pull one of the electrodes out of the porcelain before extracting it. On the other cylinder, it wouldn't come out. Of course, that is the very cylinder I'm stuck on. Assuming the electrode isn't jammed up against the piston, it shouldn't matter.
- Lisle engineer recommened Loctite. Would a small amount of JB Weld (just on the threads and in the shield) hold tighter than Loctite?
- someone mentioned trying to "build up" the thinned out shield area with some fine solder or small wire. Anyone tried this?

Sorry for the long update. I've just got to make sure I get this right.

Thanks for the continued input!

 

Afraid I cannot provide definitive advise, but have a few comments. My Lisle tool thread stripped on the last plug. I bought another tool kit as that was the fastest way to resolve. Subsequently bought a replacement threaded portion as you did. I used the pusher tool one last time to make sure I had as much shield as possible to bite into, then threaded the tool in as much as I was comfortable with, trying to make sure it bit. held my breath and success!

I think I only had one of 7 plugs to come out with the electrode. The rest broke off within the porcelin.

Not all Loctites are created equally. Some thread compounds are just sealants, some are "temporary" thread locks, and some are considered "permanent." So, to your question (JB Weld), I think it depends on which Loctite you use. Not sure what I would do, but I think the correct Loctite would be okay.

Might try spraying some Kroil in there again and let it set 24 hr to hopefully dissolve some more of that carbon build-up.

On the Lisle thread verses a tap, the real difference there would be a harder thread with the tap. The tap may also be slightly larger in diameter, which could be a plus for you here. You can check that though. GOOD LUCK!

 

Just replaced mine on Saturday of last week in my personal truck 04 F150 5.4. Everyone but 1 broke. I wouldn't say there was a need to replace your tap in you extractor kit or even file it for that matter. Mine was very similar to the Lisle kit you purchased, but mine came from NAPA. It's extracted nearly 100 spark plugs out of these 04 - 08 half tons. Usually what I do when you weren't able to pull the remaining ceramic coating & electrode out of the head is to grab the tool that presses the ceramic coating & electrode further into the head. Give it another half a turn or so and then run your tap back in to get a better bite. It feels pretty wrong the first few times you use the tool, but it is IMPOSSIBLE to push the remaining part of the spark plug into the cylinder with the tool.

 

@rcknrbn:
thats exactly what happened to me... but the electrode shield did indeed get stripped out. the loctite is new to me as well as the jb weld....Id be concerned about it getting on the plug seat and permanently welding the new plug when cold.

That is when I had to pull the valve cover to remove that plug. It was indeed a time consuming project, best of luck to you...

 

Thanks for the input guys. The new Lisle extractor bolt and the Calvan 39100 extractor set will be here tomorrow. I guess I'll open them up, study them and flip a coin!

Any other input is valued and appreciated. Of course, I'll post the outcome.


Thanks!

 

Just join you guys, two broke off clean on the left bank. Of course the back plug broke so iam really looking forward to that. My lisle tool will be here on the 5th. Only 57,400 on the plugs.

 

Do a couple things after you get your old ones out... roll the motor over without the plugs in (to blow out any debris) & apply never-cease to the new plugs (don't use never-cease with graphite as it will cause the plugs to set up again)

 

4 out of 8 broke on my truck I'm going to give the tool a shot today!!

 

Take your time when using the tool, and don't be shy when you're pressing the electrode down (step 1 to extraction) it WILL go hard.

 

Well got the plug shells out. Not as clean as i liked but it worked ok. A little piece of the porciline broke off each plug tip. I blew it out and cranked it over not sure if it came out, but it started up and ran fine with the new champion plugs. it looked like the porciline broke off a little long and when the tool pushed it down it busted thru the ground strap.