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I agree that the LED’s are sensitive to the lower voltage. I think this is a symptom of a problem. I don’t think a “band aid” load resistor ( it does work) is the cure. When you turn a switch off, it opens the circuit. Interrupts the power or ground supply. No power. No leakage. No Amps… Off is Off. If there is still power on the circuit the switch is bad or power is coming from another supply.
I agree that the LED’s are sensitive to the lower voltage. I think this is a symptom of a problem. I don’t think a “band aid” load resistor ( it does work) is the cure. When you turn a switch off, it opens the circuit. Interrupts the power or ground supply. No power. No leakage. No Amps… Off is Off. If there is still power on the circuit the switch is bad or power is coming from another supply.
Thats what I'm thinking. There has to be power coming into the circuit from some place that it shouldn't be.
Back to the resistors, ever disassemble a tail light a Cadillac or other car with "factory" led tail/brake lights? There are circuit boards in there with enough resistors and capacitors to choke a 400 pound billy goat...
Back to the resistors, ever disassemble a tail light a Cadillac or other car with "factory" led tail/brake lights? There are circuit boards in there with enough resistors and capacitors to choke a 400 pound billy goat...
I believe they are multifuntional LED lamps.
they are, they are the STT (Stop Turn Tails) for those cars, so they serve all three functions...least the cars that have factory LEDs in the tail lamps.
from what I can tell on the lamp as far as the dome is concerned is yes it should, however I may venture to my truck and remove one screw at a time and see which wire does what, but as far as I can tell should ground on the body of the truck (in theory at least) and the two wires are for the "hot" connections which as far as I can tell should have the switches connected to them, however one possibility I can think of is one of the wires is a constant hot for the map lights (they have switches built in to the lamp) so there could possibly be whats called "cross voltage" some where, kinda like how you can have cross firing of your spark plugs via the wires...its just a thought, but hey just putting it out there for the sake of discussion may grab my test light just for the heck of it and test both connections
Forget it, I'm too stupid to post here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!
No your not man....your discussing a topic geez....the only "stupid" people out there in this world are the ones who refuse to learn from others and there mistakes and repeat them over and over...
Originally Posted by Brian085
Pretty sure I tested continuity between both of them hots and read none, but I'll test again once its light out in the morning.
worth a try, Im going to do the same, but as someone else said really is true, "off is off, period" so it is possible there is some sort of cros voltage issue involved, but also could be that the bulb type lamps do provide proper load to remain off...so im going to look into this my self more also...
I doubt its the led's. When I bought the truck I found the OEM Bulb in the ashtray. I believe the past owner removed it due to the fact that it doesn't turn off. Now on to the voltage from my fluke meter. 12.6 volts with the door open. Sounds normal. Now with the door closed, 11.6 volts. That is deffently not off. Some place in this truck has to have some juice slipping by the switch.
How far out does everyone else's door jam switches stick out?