Rust repair opinions...
#16
Sure, it WAS fixable- I've read your thread, I commend you for what you did!! You turned a piece of 'swiss cheese' into a usable cab
I figured that I'd have $500 or so in sheet metal- Possibly a little more. Then, all the time/trouble to cut the old out, and weld in the new. I'm an OK welder, and might be able to do it, but it's going to take a LONG time. I paid a lot less than that for the cab, and It's only got a few tiny holes on one side of the floor, good, SOLID mounts, and a touch of surface rust here and there- It's going to save me a TON of time and money in the long run, even with the costs involved with getting it to me.
-Andrew
#17
LIfe is good, really surprised to find you found a replacement cab in good condition, great find. IMO, the amount of time/work/$ to prepare for reassembly will be considerably less. Suggest clearing the drain, and relief channels while the cab is off the frame, d.davidv has an article on subject, I was surpised to find how much gunk, and debre can accumulate in the pockets.
f100rust
Keep us posted on your progress and post pic's if you can.
f100rust
Keep us posted on your progress and post pic's if you can.
#18
Thanks, Dave... Great link there. I was amazed at the amount of 'stuff' that I found inside my OLD cab- I checked all those areas on the new cab, and they've already been cleaned out, the guy I got it from treats his parts pretty well!
I plan to make sure it's all nice and clean before it goes on the frame- Lots easier to do that stuff now!
-Andrew
I plan to make sure it's all nice and clean before it goes on the frame- Lots easier to do that stuff now!
-Andrew
#20
Yeah, it was a GREAT find... You have to love the internet.
I actually found a couple of cabs- But some people really put a HIGH price tag on them. One guy wanted $900 for them, in far worse shape than this one is in. He kept saying that he could easily get $1200+ out of it up at Pigeon forge... I said, Go ahead and bring it there, and good luck!
I actually found a couple of cabs- But some people really put a HIGH price tag on them. One guy wanted $900 for them, in far worse shape than this one is in. He kept saying that he could easily get $1200+ out of it up at Pigeon forge... I said, Go ahead and bring it there, and good luck!
#21
After getting an estimate from the local restoration/body shop ($2500 in labor, PLUS parts), and looking it over again, I thought first I'd replace the floors and mounts myself.
But, then I started looking at the whole picture. Realistically, I'm going to need to take the cab off to do it right.... I'm looking at several hundred in patch panels & sheet metal... And, there are other (though less serious) issues in the columns, etc.
So- I found a new cab, in decent shape, not far from me, for $300. I'm thinking this is the way to go- MUCH less rust, and the floors and supports are in good shape.
This changes ALL my plans, though. I think if I'm going to go this far, I might as well take the whole body off the frame this winter, rather than just do the quick patch job that I was going to do for now. I just have to get a couple of the boats I've got in the workshop finished up and out of the way first
-Andrew
But, then I started looking at the whole picture. Realistically, I'm going to need to take the cab off to do it right.... I'm looking at several hundred in patch panels & sheet metal... And, there are other (though less serious) issues in the columns, etc.
So- I found a new cab, in decent shape, not far from me, for $300. I'm thinking this is the way to go- MUCH less rust, and the floors and supports are in good shape.
This changes ALL my plans, though. I think if I'm going to go this far, I might as well take the whole body off the frame this winter, rather than just do the quick patch job that I was going to do for now. I just have to get a couple of the boats I've got in the workshop finished up and out of the way first
-Andrew
Keep the pics coming. Cheers
D
#22
Yeah, that's how it goes... I'm too far in to back out now- Have to finish it up. It's like my boat restoration projects- If I'd have known when I started what I was up against, I'd have probably passed... But, I'm hooked now. This is my first truck restoration, so I've got a lot to learn- And a lot of it I'm learning the hard way!
-Andrew
-Andrew
#23
Sure, it WAS fixable- I've read your thread, I commend you for what you did!! You turned a piece of 'swiss cheese' into a usable cab
I figured that I'd have $500 or so in sheet metal- Possibly a little more. Then, all the time/trouble to cut the old out, and weld in the new. I'm an OK welder, and might be able to do it, but it's going to take a LONG time. I paid a lot less than that for the cab, and It's only got a few tiny holes on one side of the floor, good, SOLID mounts, and a touch of surface rust here and there- It's going to save me a TON of time and money in the long run, even with the costs involved with getting it to me.
-Andrew
I figured that I'd have $500 or so in sheet metal- Possibly a little more. Then, all the time/trouble to cut the old out, and weld in the new. I'm an OK welder, and might be able to do it, but it's going to take a LONG time. I paid a lot less than that for the cab, and It's only got a few tiny holes on one side of the floor, good, SOLID mounts, and a touch of surface rust here and there- It's going to save me a TON of time and money in the long run, even with the costs involved with getting it to me.
-Andrew
How does the rear of your old cab look? Depending on where your holes are in the old cab, and how good of shape it is in, you may be able to cut sections out of the old cab to fix your new one. Would save you the cost and pain in the neck of using replacement sections or welding in sheet steel to fix. You should be able to buy sheets of 4X8 20g mild steel for about $50-$60 a sheet. You may only need a 1/4 sheet, so maybe $15 to $20 to buy new flat steel if it comes to that.
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