First off, thanks guys. I do a lot of reading on here over the years, but don't post much here as I spend most time on Team Shelby and Mustang web sites.
Well, see the video. This can't be good! I know, I know, bad problem. Rebuild, reman, used, whatever, not good, motor is coming out. What is odd is how this happened. I have been having some starting issues over past 6 months, but nothing obvious as to why. Last weekend, traveled from Denver to Grand Junction to get a trailer and a bunch of horse corral panels. On the way home, I did get the service engine light a couple times, but it would clear up. With the codes I got, I was pretty sure about the under valve cover plug issue so time for the 50 cent trick. Truck made it home, no problem, other than the couple times. Next morning started and was missing and skipping with service engine light. Then died after a few minutes and would not start again. I check CPS, fuel pressure, etc. just in case. Pulled the drivers valve cover and found the plug very loose, changed a couple bad glow plugs while there, torqued bolts, etc. Thanks to all the info found here. Did the 50 cent mod. Also pulled the passenger side and did the same. Truck started right up but I knew something was bad, very bad with the sounds it was making. Anyhow, see here. No fuel or oil in the coolant, but all the coolant is now in the engine. With the water/antifreeze going into the crank case, is it possible that this is just a head gasket, or bad crack in head/block? What do you think. I'm not thinking piston with the coolant going in the crank case. Now to decide if try rebuild, chance a used engine, or reman...?? Thoughts? Oh yea, late 99, dually, crew, 4x4. 140K miles, which should be nothing on this truck.


I know, why even try to set the oil cap on this blow by!!

Truck blowby.MOV - YouTube

JeffJ
1999 Ford F-350 7.3 dually, crew, 4x4
2006 Shelby GT-H #102
1993 F-150 Lightning #711

 

Ouch. I guess the first step would be to figure out where your coolant is going. Does the coolant disappear when the engine is cold, or only after it warms up?

Ed or Clay can get you a good deal on a Ford rebuild kit or a long block depending on what you're looking for and what your future plans for the motor are. If more power is an option, stick with forged rods on the rebuild.

 

Dead hole for sure... Coolant in the oil sounds like a cracked head or block. Very doubtful its a headgasket with that much blow by.

Motors done no matter if you have run it at all with coolant in the oil. Bearings will be shot.

Keep your eye on CL for rolled or parted out truck.

I have $400 into the motor I am running right now and just picked up another runner (stripped long block) for $650...

 

This was a motor a bud and I just pulled. I thought it would be way worse off once we got the heads off but it looked pretty clean under the heads. Yours defiantly has a different tone than ours. Also on ours the ic was completely full of oil!!

 

Yes, water will go into the motor while sitting cold. It has not been run but for idle for a few minutes with the water in the oil. It was just fine and running great when I got home last weekend, full power, no issues at all. I actually checked the oil and it was clean after I got home from the trip. So whatever happened, happened when I was home. I have a hard time believing that something happened like this just because of firing it up while the 9 pin clip came undone. Things just don't make sense as it was running full bore when we pulled in the driveway.

 

First step to me would be a compression check, but I really think your going to be looking for a new motor...

Brighton??? Where is that in CO compared to Denver/Springs?

I am working in the area and would be happy to come take a look. My AE is broken right now but I have my scan gauge. Run a cont test to see if we can narrow down a side, but looks like the passanger side for sure...

 

I agree that an unplugged harness should not blow a motor. I've seen a truck with one dead bank driven for 45 miles and it's still running now about 100k miles later after we replaced the bad injector solenoid.

I do wonder if this is one of those strange coincidence things. You say the truck has been hard to start for a while now. What does your air intake look like? What about the turbo wheel? Perhaps your slow starts have been a compression issue and something finally gave way.

I don't have an explanation as to why this happened to you, but there's not much arguing with your video. If you're anywhere near Joe, let him look at it. He's been around one or two, or more broken engines.

 

A leak down test will tell you all you need to know

Leak-down tester - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

Dangit, I always forget the link!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdmtSqLPG74


Sent from my iPhone

 

Wow Joe, very nice of an offer. If it works out maybe we can do something. I'm just north of Denver about 20 minutes. Yea, I think just unusual coincidences. Air intake is clean as well as the turbo. The hard starting is after sitting for over a week or so. Once started once, it started fine within three days or so. I'm thinking that was some fuel issue or the electric/glow plug issue. Also, no smoke at all on the trip home, but after the start the next day, lots of blue and white smoke. Obviously from the water being sucked somewhere.

 

that looks bad. i would like to know what made it happen at home and not on the road?

 

Just tossing out the idea of injector cups. Not sure if it will cause coolant to get into the crankcase but I have heard of oil in the coolant from them failing.

 

Snakedoc, I'm thinking that maybe something did happen on the road when it maybe got to hot but did not show itself until the motor got cooled down on arrival. Just a thought. It did not overheat, but it was close to the top line pulling the last pass. Usually that would cause something to blow at that point if it was going to. But at least it didn't until getting home.
Scott. I wouldn't think that would allow the water to drain into the crank case while just sitting cold. Maybe? If i fill the expansion tank, it will be empty in about three hours, so that's a pretty good stream of water flowing somewhere, and not on the ground.... yuk! Really nothing to do but yank her out and take it apart at this point to see what the deal is. At least it's the end of horse and drag race season right now, so I really don't need the truck to drive. So I have time to do what ever it is I'm going to do. I think a tear down first to see what's up before I make that decision. Thanks for alll the thoughts!

Bulla, thanks for the video. No oil in my IC or in the water as far as I can tell now, just the other way. At least there's hope that it's not complete junk, well at least hope!

 

Not sure if your interested in a used short block, but here is one in UT for $250. Came across it while looking at other stuff.

Classifieds for Utah, Idaho, and Wyoming | ksl.com

 

Jeff, I had VERY similar symtoms, mine ended up being leaking injector cups, so yes, your coolant is going out your tailpipe.