Yes it does! looks like i have some shopping to do...think i will wimp out and go manual choke, plus it gives me chance to buy a sweet choke lever!!!
thanks again...

 

If you like your stock Motorcraft 2150, then you will love the Autolite 4100. Its basically a 4 barrel version of the 2150, with the added benefits of the 2 extra barrels for performance. These Ford/Autolite/Motorcraft carburetors were really ahead of their time with the annular boosters and the automatic hot air choke. In fact, Holley actually bought the annular booster design from Ford in the early 1980s. They can be hard to find though, as they were dropped after the late 1960s.

Neither the Autolite 4100 nor the Motorcraft 2100/2150 came with a manual choke. These carburetors came with an automatic hot air choke that sourced the hot air from a chamber in the passenger's side exhaust manifold. The fresh air tube sourced clean, filtered air from the carburetor air horn and routed it to the choke stove chamber located on the exhaust manifold. The air gets heated in this chamber and routes back up through the insulated hot air tube where it connects to the choke cap, and controls the choke operation in direct relation to how hot the engine is. That is what makes these chokes superior to the all-electric chokes found on all aftermarket carburetors that rely on a timer.

If you have headers, you can do what DrainBramage described above and the hot air choke should work well. Or what I did to get mine hooked up to my own headers was to buy a choke stove kit. They are about $10 and can be found at NAPA at the HELP! section. It consists of a small aluminum dome, a hose clamp, and a roll of coiled up aluminum tubing with the correct fittings to fit the Autolite/Motorcraft chokes. All you do here is strap the dome (this serves as the choke stove) down on a header pipe with the hose clamp, and push the end of the aluminum tube in the hole at the end of it. Then you can bend the rest of the tube by hand to route from the dome to the choke cap. This works by drawing hot air from under the dome and into the choke cap. I went a little bit farther with mine and drilled a hole in the other end of the dome as well and ran the other end of the tubing to the carburetor air horn to keep the air filtered, like Ford did it. It works very well; MUCH BETTER than the all-electric aftermarket chokes. And it is cheaper and a lot less troublesome than a manual choke.

 

hey 85 mabe you should learn how to read and who died and made you the grammer king any ways? i got my point accross and thats all that matters are we in a truck forum or school? to each their own and i still say if those carbs were any good they would still be on my trucks and not in the garbage as all my trucks came with the original carbs and they all leaked from sitting

 

Just ignore him. He is simply wired that way. If you don't take his word as gospel regardless of how much or how little supporting information he provides, then he just acuses you of having your mind made up before you even asked. There are, after all, only two ways of doing things, his way and the wrong way.

If you are looking for a pi$$ing match, keep after him, otherwise ignore him.

Credit where credit is due, he is actually supporting his opinion with some facts in this thread.

whatever .... I guess I'm cranky this morning ...

 

Miottimouse, your original poster was so bad it was almost unreadable. You will get far more responses from people if you would use basic punctuation so we can read and understand what you are trying to say. Every modern computer I have seen in that last 10 years and this site has Spellchecker, so there is no reason not to construct a basic paragraph correctly with words that the average person can read and recognize. It's hard to take anyone seriously who writes a paragraph like the one you posted.

That being said, if you think the stock Motorcraft carburetor belongs "in the garbage," then you are giving terrible advice because you don't know what you're talking about. Its common knowledge that the Autolite/Motorcraft 2100/2150/4100 carburetors are some of the BEST carburetors ever made. Every single carburetor made is going to leak if it is around long enough, including your Edelbrock. I would never say that a Holley or Edelbrock "belong in the garbage" because they are fine carburetors. I agree with you in that a Holley is going to leak more often, simply because of the design of the metering blocks on the carburetor itself. But Holleys are better known for their tuneability and racing, and the Edlebrock is known for their out-of-the-box street performance. Both are great carburetors, but you are misleading the original poster by telling him that the Motorcraft carburetors are "garbage" and are just as bad about leaking as a Holley because they are not. Their gaskets are ABOVE fuel level, just like your Edelbrock. But the Autolite/motorcraft carburetors have annular boosters (and some newer Holleys do) that atomizes fuel almost as well as modern fuel injection and even better than your Edelbrock. They are simple, reliable, good performers, and use an automatic hot air choke for better driveability. And that is why I suggested he either keep the original Motorcraft 2V he already has or go with an Autolite 4100.

I read what the original poster was asking and gave him my opinion on what carburetor to buy to get the best performance and reliability out of his truck, just like he asked for. I chimed in because I made the mistake of listening to how great the Holley carburetors are myself a few years ago and spent almost $400 on a Holley 4150 Truck Avenger that didn't work near as well on a daily driver. The idea here is to help another user learn from my past mistakes, save him some money, and hopefully help them to get as much enjoyment and reliability out of their vehicle as I do. There is a lot of hype out there from magazines trying to sell people on aftermarket carburetors, "high performance" ignition systems, and the like. I have found almost always that the hype hardly ever delivers what it says it does for a daily driver, and most people make the mistake of trying to turn their pickup truck into a race car, when what they really want is a reliable daily driver with a little added performance.

 

Maybe I missed it, due to the back and forth going on. (but still a lot of great info) Has the OP considered a Quadrajet at all? their was a member on here that did one and loves it. You can pick them up for $20 all day long, rebuild kit is $20 if you are just looking for stock performance.

 

Have you seen this review? Summit Carb Review and Road Test @ FordMuscleForum Carb tested was a Summit M08600VS so 600 cfm, vacuum secondaries, electric choke and dual feed inlets. Looks like a pretty positive review. I like the fact that its the basic 4100/4010 layout with some "updates" AND its tune-able with off the shelf Holley parts (vacuum secondary springs, jets, accelerator pump cams, etc.) If I didn't already have a 4160 and a 4100 to play with, I would probably give this a shot. If I can find a true Holley 4010 on eBay for cheap, I might spring for it and do a comparison... but that won't be any time soon.

Also, here is FMC400's thread about chokes on the stock carbs: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116 He kindly posted this in another carb related thread yesterday

 

Good point here. I would imagine there are quadrajet manifolds out there for the 351w? I've never touched a Q-Jet in my life, my only experience is listening to my GM buddies call them "Quadra-Toilets" and helping them swap stock Q-Jet manifolds for Edelbrock squarebore parts. I would imagine this is due to the "emissions era" feedback carbs they were trying to "tune" at the time. I understand there are some earlier or even aftermarket Q-Jets that are very tuneable... just stay away from stock application units.

Your post brings up another point... budget. You can probably get a solid used Q-Jet carb, rebuild kit and mainifold for less than $100. I got my Autolite 4100 off eBay for $40 with shipping, and I bought my new 4160 about 10 years ago for around $250-300. OP just got his squarebore manifold, so sticking with a squarebore carb is probably the way to go, still plenty of good options out there.

 

I agree that the Summit carburetor looks good. It is very much like a modern version of the Autolite 4100. All gaskets are ABOVE fuel level, it uses Holley parts, and it has the annular boosters!

Speaking of Quadrajet, I have a rather unique Autolite 4100, DrainBramage. I sent my carburetor off to Pony carburetors to get restored, and they sleeved the primaries. I now have a "spreadbore" carburetor, but only internally. This means I can use any regular squarebore intake manifold. The reason being is because 600 cfm is bit large for a 302 to begin with, and the smaller primaries help reduce the cfm to help with throttle response and better fuel mileage. With the smaller primaries and larger secondaries, I get the reliability of the Autolite, plus the benefits of a Quadrajet!

 

I second that on my 460... .... OOPS!! on edit, Mine is a 650cfm..

Dak

 

i would stick with the matched edelbrock carb for the intake. the 600 with vacuum secondaries should work good. no problem. put it on and go. no power valve to blow out!

 

this thread taught me quite a bit. subscribing!

 

I have experiences with two Holleys.

1. A 27 year old Motorcraft Holley, nothing but problems. But then again, it was nearly 30 years old. The first thing to fail was the accelerator pump, but again.. what do you expect from a rubber part that is so old?

2. I bought a new Holley. It was a bolt on and go, no problems at all. Starts right up, with one pump of the gas. I then tap the gas again without waiting and it the fast idle kicks down, and away I go.

Why won't I buy an Edelbrock? Because of the problems I had with my first Holley, I know just about everything about them. So if I change brands then I will need to learn something new.

 

Pony does great restorations, but I have a problem recommending a $780 carburetor to a guy who just wants to get his truck running. For most people a $50 eBay (when you can find them) carb, $40 Motorcraft rebuild kit and $20 worth of carb cleaner will yield similar results, just not as pretty. If you don't think you have the skills, you can write a $230 check to Summit and get a rebuilt Holley List 1850. It may not be pretty and it may not be perfect, but it'll get you back on the road.

I'll boil it down this way: How much time do you want to put into this, and how much money do you have to spend? I tend to think most 'truck guys' are like me... I'm broke and I have plenty of time to screw with things. The homebrew $60 rebuild is perfect for me. It also gives me a chance to learn more about something that most people consider to be voodoo and then I can fix it myself in the future. If you have the money to spend, (or you are rebuilding a C8OF-9510-AA for a 1968 Mustang Cobra 428CJ Shelby GT-500KR) then by all means buy a (or send it to) Pony carb, they do great work. In the end its up to the individual end user who is spending the money.

Glad the Pony Carb is working for you! I have a friend who had the original 4100 on his numbers matching "A" code 65 Mustang fastback rebuilt by Pony. It ran nice but so did my *******ized 66 with the 4160 (you will notice in my sig that it now wears a 4100...)

This is another great reason. The learning curve on any new product can be a hassle. Go with what you know is great advice as well!

 

For quick and simple,,, X2 or X3 on the Edlebrock,,, set and go, been VERY happy with mine,, and it is on a 351M with an Edle 400 performer manifold,, man choke,, whole new truck!!