Headlight switch wiring question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2011
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Headlight switch wiring question
I've got a 1992 F250 and I put a gauge pod in it with 2 APC gauges (Oil Pressure and Vacuum) and they have bright indigo lighting. I hooked the gauge lights up to the wire the illuminated the original radio and it works fine, but, I have a problem. These lights are so bright that at night it makes it kinda hard to see the lines on the road. I can dim them down, but my speedo goes down too. So I had an Idea. I wanted to hook up my gauge cluster lights direct where they're always bright (that's how I like them) and run the gauge pod lights with the dimmer so I can turn them down but my speedometer cluster is bright. I thought about hooking it to the parking light wire so they come on with the lights. Any suggestions on the easiest way to do this? I thought about pulling the switch to find the wire. anybody know which one it is or have a better opinion?? I look like I'm driving drunk sometimes haha
Here's a picture of the gauges. they were dimmed a lot in this pic
Here's a picture of the gauges. they were dimmed a lot in this pic
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,744
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From: Earth
why not just run a dimmer or two inline on the pillar pods so you can more or less leave your factory things alone and still run the pod lights separate dimmer wise? sorry if im missing something here but my mind likes to think of simple solutions...remember KISS...
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,728
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From: Cleveland, TN
Why not add a resistor in the wire going to the pod? I'm not sure what value it would take, that would depend on the number of bulbs and their wattage, so some experimenting is in order.. Once you figure out what it takes to get them to the brightness you want, I would suggest getting a wire wound resistor for permanent use, the cheap carbon one "may" not last too long...
You might also be able to find bulbs that is not as bright..
You might also be able to find bulbs that is not as bright..
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2011
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Well Einstein, I was thinking about the extra switch, but I prefer using the original so I can still easily adjust them if needed. I didn't want to many switches since I have a lot already. That's something I've had in mind but a "good" switch is kinda expensive for me. I'm not paying $20 jkust to dim my lights. I'll unhook the damn things Most that I've bought in the past melt or something.
The resistor isn't a bad idea. These lights in it are built in and require very little power so that might work the best. I like the idea of using the original switch and not rigging in another one to be tied under the dash. But, if the resistor idea or wire splice doesn't work, I'm gonna have to do the extra headlight switch
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2011
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Update: I did something sorta different. I had a bunch of old junky C.B. radios laying around and used the "Volume/power" **** switch. I looked up some post on another site and a guy used one to run many LED lights on a boat. My gauge lights use almost no power so I tried it. Works great! If I turn it all the way back, they'll even shut off , Perfect in case there is an issue. I've been running this set up for awhile and the switch never got hot once.
I looked up headlight switches and all had bad reviews saying the dimmer messes up. That's the part I need to. There was another site that sold 12 volt dimmer switches for boats and RV's for about $20 and had good reviews. If something happens (which I doubt) I'll probably buy it. What a difference and vision now that they don't glow so bright!!!!!!
I looked up headlight switches and all had bad reviews saying the dimmer messes up. That's the part I need to. There was another site that sold 12 volt dimmer switches for boats and RV's for about $20 and had good reviews. If something happens (which I doubt) I'll probably buy it. What a difference and vision now that they don't glow so bright!!!!!!
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