Adjusting Rear drums
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 126
Likes: 4
Adjusting Rear drums
I have just spent a good hour or so searching this forum. So please excuse the visit of an old topic.
I would like to know how to properly adjust the rear drums on my 78' F150. I have done drums before, on my 58' Chevy, but not a Ford of this vintage. They both have Bendix brakes, so I didn't think there would be any issues. I have adjusted the rears to spin 2 revs. after giving them a good spin. I also tightened them up to locking, to center the shoes, and them back them off to this. How does everyone else adjust theirs? I ask because I have to pump the brakes once and then on the second push I get a firm pedal. I also bleed all four wheels today with my mighty vac. Any help or suggestions, I appreciate it!
I would like to know how to properly adjust the rear drums on my 78' F150. I have done drums before, on my 58' Chevy, but not a Ford of this vintage. They both have Bendix brakes, so I didn't think there would be any issues. I have adjusted the rears to spin 2 revs. after giving them a good spin. I also tightened them up to locking, to center the shoes, and them back them off to this. How does everyone else adjust theirs? I ask because I have to pump the brakes once and then on the second push I get a firm pedal. I also bleed all four wheels today with my mighty vac. Any help or suggestions, I appreciate it!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
I usually just adjust the shoes to where you can hear them barely rubbing on the drum. Doesnt really work on a truck with a locking differential like mine. FYI, the drums are supposed to adjust when you apply the brake in reverse, assuming all the hardware is working correctly.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 126
Likes: 4
Thanks devino246 for the reply.
I have adjusted them tighten then what you describe and I still have to pump the brakes once before getting really good braking power. I bleed the system with my mightyvac since I am by myself. Do I still have air in the system? DO I need to adjust the MC rod? The MC is a rebuilt from NAPA that I did bench bleed when installed this time last year.
I have ordered new Parking brake cables for the rears as they are currently different lengths and will not keep the truck from rolling. I have tried everything to adjust the current cables, but to no avail and decided to go with new ones. I hope this will make it easier in making the Pbrake work again.
I have adjusted them tighten then what you describe and I still have to pump the brakes once before getting really good braking power. I bleed the system with my mightyvac since I am by myself. Do I still have air in the system? DO I need to adjust the MC rod? The MC is a rebuilt from NAPA that I did bench bleed when installed this time last year.
I have ordered new Parking brake cables for the rears as they are currently different lengths and will not keep the truck from rolling. I have tried everything to adjust the current cables, but to no avail and decided to go with new ones. I hope this will make it easier in making the Pbrake work again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
Not sure about the fronts, but you could probably gravity bleed the rears. Just open the bleeder screws and let it drip for a few minutes. Parking on a slope can help speed up the process. Just make sure you DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL WITH THE BLEEDER SCREWS OPEN, but Im sure you knew that.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,508
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From: Sioux Falls Area
perhaps paying a shop to do a "reverse bleed" would be a worthwhile investment?
especially with a new MC. If by some chance there is some air left in the MC, it is easier to get it to come out with a reverse bleed rather than trying to force it through the entire system.
Had a similar problem with a Crown Vic once. Replaced the MC and bench bled it as per the instructions. still stopped like crap, took it to a shop and had them do the reverse bleed and the problem was solved.
not saying that it will fix it for sure, but it will eliminate air in the system as a possible cause.
just a thought
especially with a new MC. If by some chance there is some air left in the MC, it is easier to get it to come out with a reverse bleed rather than trying to force it through the entire system.
Had a similar problem with a Crown Vic once. Replaced the MC and bench bled it as per the instructions. still stopped like crap, took it to a shop and had them do the reverse bleed and the problem was solved.
not saying that it will fix it for sure, but it will eliminate air in the system as a possible cause.
just a thought
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