Epoxy then basecoat
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Epoxy then basecoat
I have a 72 f-100 that I took down to bare metal then did my filler work. I've skim coated it to my satisfaction. My question is can I apply epoxy and then do my base and clear or do I need to epoxy and then go with a 2k high build before base?
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Really the best thing you could have done would have been to put epoxy over your bare metal, then do your filler work. But since you did your filler work already I would epoxy the whole truck, let it cure really good then put a few coats of 2k urethane primer over it so you can block it down really nice before you base/clear.
Make sure you take all your body work down to like 220 grit before you apply any type of primer over it. Same with the rest of the truck. After you epoxy it prep your epoxy with 320 before you put on your 2k. Use guide coat for your final blocking of your 2k primer. Use no less than 320grit for blocking. After you block you can use guide coat again and wet sand with 600 grit. Use a soft block when you wet sand so you dont leave finger marks. Guide coat is basically flat black spray paint that dries really really fast, it is used to find low spots and it will also show your sand scratches.
Make sure you take all your body work down to like 220 grit before you apply any type of primer over it. Same with the rest of the truck. After you epoxy it prep your epoxy with 320 before you put on your 2k. Use guide coat for your final blocking of your 2k primer. Use no less than 320grit for blocking. After you block you can use guide coat again and wet sand with 600 grit. Use a soft block when you wet sand so you dont leave finger marks. Guide coat is basically flat black spray paint that dries really really fast, it is used to find low spots and it will also show your sand scratches.
Cargo Master
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Lay down epoxy and make sure to read the P-sheet. It will tell you your window time before you have to shoot the epoxy again. Example, PPG DPLF has a window of 7 days with the 401 catalyst. On the other hand their OMNI line epoxy, which is just as good, has a window of 3 days. You "really" want to shoot any paint on top of the epoxy within the window time as you get the benefits of a chemical bond. You could then lay a compatible primer surfacer and then block sand before the base coat. Or, if you are happy with your work you can lay basecoat right on top of the epoxy.
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I'll make the determination once I finish laying down the epoxy. My initial guide coats are looking better and better as I progress through each panel.
I'm hoping that since I went filler over bare metal I can skip the 2k step, since I feel really comfortable with how the guide coats have been coming out. Only time will tell.
Does anyone have any advice on grit or material for guide coat. I initial bought a few cheap cans of spray paint from the hardware store, but either I'm trying to sand it of too quickly or something else, it gums up my paper really quickly.
I'm hoping that since I went filler over bare metal I can skip the 2k step, since I feel really comfortable with how the guide coats have been coming out. Only time will tell.
Does anyone have any advice on grit or material for guide coat. I initial bought a few cheap cans of spray paint from the hardware store, but either I'm trying to sand it of too quickly or something else, it gums up my paper really quickly.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Concord, CA
There are spray cans of guide coat from SEM which is designed for the job. The stuff is more a powder than a paint and so it won't clog up your sand paper.
As far as your filler over bare metal that is what I do after giving the metal a good scratch. The filler manufacturers say you can do it that way. The paint manufacturers say you need to lay epoxy first. Talking to experienced body people they say you can do it over clean bare metal. It will adhere better to 36 grit scratch on the metal than to the surface of the epoxy.
As far as your filler over bare metal that is what I do after giving the metal a good scratch. The filler manufacturers say you can do it that way. The paint manufacturers say you need to lay epoxy first. Talking to experienced body people they say you can do it over clean bare metal. It will adhere better to 36 grit scratch on the metal than to the surface of the epoxy.
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I went over the bare metal with 40 grit or a wire wheel. I now know that most go epoxy then do their filler work and end up with 2k before base.
I went filler over bare metal b/c I initially was going to go the "$50 dollar" paint job route but then I got a decent deal on a compressor that could put out enough cfm to run a hvlp and I just want something that will look decent and last. Without having to take the truck back down to bare metal.
I will look into the scm paint.
I went filler over bare metal b/c I initially was going to go the "$50 dollar" paint job route but then I got a decent deal on a compressor that could put out enough cfm to run a hvlp and I just want something that will look decent and last. Without having to take the truck back down to bare metal.
I will look into the scm paint.
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