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Slight shudder

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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #1  
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Slight shudder

I have just developed a small shudder in my truck. I cannot isolate it coming from any one location. I have been told that it sounds like a u-joint issue. Shudder 35 to 45 miles, then again at 65 to 70 miles. New tires about 3,000 miles ago. This just started. No shudder before yesterday. Feels like the highway speed ripples on the road when coming to a tole booth, but less annoying. I have 105,000 miles on her now. I will be going back to the tire store on Monday to have them rebalance.

No CEL or codes.

Any suggestions?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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Rebalance the tires and see if that helps you never know
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 12:46 AM
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Anything is possible, but I have seen 200k on u-joints on these trucks and still going strong.

Hopefully the wheel balance will cure it.

I have also seen loose pinion nuts, and tired carrier bearings cause vibration as you have described. Would be worth a look if for no other reason than to eliminate them as causes, if the balance is not the issue.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SoCalSuperDuty03
Anything is possible, but I have seen 200k on u-joints on these trucks and still going strong.

Hopefully the wheel balance will cure it.

I have also seen loose pinion nuts, and tired carrier bearings cause vibration as you have described. Would be worth a look if for no other reason than to eliminate them as causes, if the balance is not the issue.
Refresh me on the pinion nuts and carrier bearings location.
Brain fart.
Thanks
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 01:07 PM
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Carrier bearing is the bearing between the two drive shaft halfs mounted to the crossmember under the cab and pinion nut is the nut that holds the drive shaft to the rear-end and the nut can be accessed by removing the driveshaft from the rear-end yoke, it is right in ther middle of the yoke. have you putthe truck in neutral when the shudder occurs?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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Front axel u-joint
to check the ujoints turn truck fulley right then spin the axels by hand they should turn freely with no play repeat turned left

truck needs to be in 2wd if its a 4x4 hubs in free position or auto

cause the truck to pull one way or the other for no appparnt reason

and might cause a vibration if bad enough


another thing to check is the wheel weights it might have thrown one or something
 

Last edited by BLADE35; Sep 4, 2011 at 09:44 PM. Reason: more info
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
to check the ujoints turn truck fulley right then spin the axels by hand they should turn freely with no play repeat turned left

truck needs to be in 2wd if its a 4x4 hubs in free position or auto

cause the truck to pull one way or the other for no appparnt reason

and might cause a vibration if bad enough


another thing to check is the wheel weights it might have thrown one or something
Benny we are talking u-joints in the rear driveshaft.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 09:33 PM
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if you let off the gas and get back on it( having it shift down and in turn bumping the rmps higher) does it go away? if so it sounds like a stiction issue with your injectors. I deal with it every day until the oil is fully warmed up
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SoCalSuperDuty03
Benny we are talking u-joints in the rear driveshaft.
sorrey theres u-joints all over I didnt think about those

\
No u-joints at the steering knuckle fronts at front axel

these ones get worked alot and mine are non serviable

that carrier bearing can wear out too along the rear driveshaft/line
 
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
sorrey theres u-joints all over I didnt think about those

\
No u-joints at the steering knuckle fronts at front axel

these ones get worked alot and mine are non serviable

that carrier bearing can wear out too along the rear driveshaft/line
I know how you are, I think the same way, everything is a 4WD, right??!!
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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I just got back from the dealer with a new u-joint. Last night I crawled under the truck grabbed the front u-joint and tried to turn the drive shaft. With no play , I repeated the process untill I got to the rear u-joint. This one had quit a bit of play. So today I picked up a new u-joint and proceeded to remove the old. I got as far as removing the lock washer/retainers off. Now how to I unfreeze them? I spyed them with break away and still nothing moves. Ant suggestions. I am a drive way mechanic so tools are limited. I thought of removing the whole drive shaft but thought otherwise. Don't want to seperate at the spline. The seal/boot is good. I just dropped the rear of the drive shaft down.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 03:17 PM
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sounds like your onto something if the rear ujoint had slop in it hope it didnwear the carrier bearing to bad

I will have to follow your lead when mine goes out

I know some of that suspension stuff can be rusted pretty good GOOD LUCK

oh ya does the new ujoint have a grease fitting in it???????????
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
sounds like your onto something if the rear ujoint had slop in it hope it didnwear the carrier bearing to bad

I will have to follow your lead when mine goes out

I know some of that suspension stuff can be rusted pretty good GOOD LUCK

oh ya does the new ujoint have a grease fitting in it???????????
No grease fitting.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 06:40 PM
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After taking the drive shaft out (from trans to rear diff). I noticed that at two different locations a spot (rectangle) with less surface rust on it. Could this mean that some weights have fallen off. Who do I have to take it to to have the balance of the shaft checked? How much should I expect to pay?
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Headviking
After taking the drive shaft out (from trans to rear diff). I noticed that at two different locations a spot (rectangle) with less surface rust on it. Could this mean that some weights have fallen off. Who do I have to take it to to have the balance of the shaft checked? How much should I expect to pay?
If that driveshaft has never been out of the truck, chances are the factory balancing weights parted company with the tube.

A good driveshaft shop can balance it and replace the u-joints if you don't have a press. (a u-joint press can be rented or borrowed at some parts houses).

Whatever you do, with any two-piece driveshaft, make sure you index it correctly if you happen to disassemble it, especially after you have it balanced.
 
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